UKC

Tafraoute single pitch recommendations

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 ebdon 13 Sep 2022

I'm off to Tafraoute later this year, I've been before so vaguely know the score, but this time I'm going with my wife who dispite being my soulmate, the most beautiful women in the world etc... is somwhat lacking in the seconding anything above VS department (the jumuars for her last birthday present did not go down well). As such can any one recomend good single pitch climbs in the E1 to E4 range that be easily walked off or absailed? 

OP ebdon 15 Sep 2022
In reply to ebdon:

Bump.... 

 Dr Toph 15 Sep 2022
In reply to ebdon:

Honestly it would be a pity to restrict yourselves to single pitch, as the best routes are all longer. Might it be a good place to introduce your wife to the joys of multipitch? Ksar Rock routes are generally 2 or 3 pitch, good grade spread and quality rock. 

Alternatively Robin Hood Rocks are fun single pitches with, if I recall, easy descents.

There might be some more on the south face of the mountain, but beware the prickly cacti of doom!

OP ebdon 15 Sep 2022
In reply to Dr Toph:

Oh there will definitely be some big mountain days! My wife is no stranger to multipitch epics (and as I glance at the guidebook she has allready put post it's in the pages for the routes she wants to do), but alas at a grade a little lower than I enjoy.

2
 George Frisby 15 Sep 2022

Hey, we from 12th to the 18th Jan 2020, and did lots of granite cracks at the crags around Tafraoute. If you take a look at my logbook you should be able to find them, i think it's set to public. All the ones on there i thought were really good, about same length as standard peak district routes, and mainly in the grade range you talk about. Sometimes the granite can be a bit crumbly but pretty good rock quality on all the routes we did. I like hand/fist/OW size cracks so the ones on my logbook probably are more that type than slabs etc. There are some bolted slab sport routes which are nice. No problem with retrieving gear on ab on any of the routes we did, access to the top pretty easy on all of them i think. 

It's really easy to get out from Tafroute, you can even walk if you like, takes about half an hr to an hr to most crags around the town. 

We used the 'Climb Tafraout - Tafraout Granite' guide which was really good. If you don't already have a copy, message me and i'll try and get mine to you. 

George. 

OP ebdon 15 Sep 2022
In reply to George Frisby:

Brilliant thanks, that's really helpful

 Dr Toph 15 Sep 2022
In reply to ebdon:

Ah now I understand. Well in that case try p1 of Breaking Strain on Ksar Rock, that's the meat of the route and i think it should be easy to ab off from there. 

Some of the flat iron routes might be single pitch, can't recall just now, nice slabs, descend off the back.

Robin Hood recommendation stands

Have to say it's worth seeking out the quartzite, over the granite nearer the village.

OP ebdon 15 Sep 2022
In reply to Dr Toph:

Yeah, were staying in the Kasbah so I'm imagining will be mainly on the quartzite 

 Dave Cundy 15 Sep 2022
In reply to ebdon:

Whst about pitch 1 of the Golden Compass  on the white domes?  Not far from the kasbah.  There's a big ledge at the top of pitch one.  You might be able to bring up the missus (we thought it was quite straight forwards for an E1).  Or ab down, retrieve the gear and then 'scramble' back to retrieve the anchor.

Also, Lionheart on one of the domes.  Nice route at HVS, should be doable by both of you.

Post edited at 21:12
 Dave Cundy 15 Sep 2022
In reply to ebdon:

What about the Tramline slabs?

 Will Rupp 15 Sep 2022
In reply to ebdon:

Azules de Vergara (HVS 5a) got to do!

Ninja Berber (7b) very good sport slab.

Transaharania (E4 6a) really good crack

Trafalgar Crack (E2 5c) cool setting

Thunderball (E2 5c) if you like cracks

 Martin Bennett 15 Sep 2022
In reply to ebdon:

These should be worth a look for you I think:

Dinosaur Crag near Sidi m'Zal.  Taskra Gorge on Tizi Escarpment.  

Griffon Rock in Afantinzar near Ksar Rock. Tagzene Gorge above Afantinzar Valley. Palm Tree Gorge in Ameln Valley, and perhaps the nearby Mosque Valley Slabs.

As others have implied the granite's convenient if in Tafraoute but there are better places in the World to climb granite. Beware the fact that the two guide book series differ in nomenclature here and there.

   

 scott titt 16 Sep 2022
In reply to ebdon:

Alma  Alma has lots of what you need and has an easy walk-off

Aktil edge  Aktil Edge is close to the main road and an easier drive than Alma but not quite as good.

Some newish single pitch stuff at Wazil Walls (not on UKC)

Tagzene Gorge  Tagzene Gorge is in a very pleasant setting and an easy walk in.

Azumer  Azumer Crag had lots of single pitch and the nearby All Relative Gorge All Relative Gorge had a few more.

There are lots more but these came to mind first.

All fairly close to the Kasbah, and all in Morocco Rock The Anti Atlas by Crack Addicts

Post edited at 19:57
OP ebdon 16 Sep 2022
In reply to scott titt:

Cheers,  looks good, for better or worse I've got a copy of the latest oxford guidebook so annoying can only see a few of this econ Ukc. Theres just so much rock!

 SP 18 Sep 2022
In reply to ebdon:

It looks like you’ve had some good suggestions already. We didn’t do many single pitch routes, but I do remember enjoying Night train to Munich (E2 5b)

Have a great trip!


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