... as one of the best places to rock climb in the world (though obviously Pembroke beats it anyway):
https://www.theguardian.com/travel/gallery/2020/apr/23/the-best-places-to-r...
And the only UK entry is the Lakes. Obviously a very US-centric selection with a few fairly random other places thrown in.
Stupid article. And what a rotten tilted shot of Castle Hill.
Why do so many people overlook Norway so much? Is it the weather?
https://cdn.civitatis.com/noruega/svolvaer/galeria/islas-lofoten.jpg
> ... as one of the best places to rock climb in the world (though obviously Pembroke beats it anyway):
There's another piece on the Organ Pipes in Hobart lower down...
https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2019/feb/28/tasmania-climb-mount-welling...
I have had a lot of trouble convincing people to go to Norway. The most commonly cited reason is the price of beer.
No El Cap? No Hobby Moor?
I really don't get it. There's so much potential. For example there's a crag in Norway which is about 2 miles long and 200 to 600 meters high. All perfect granite, the approaches are less than an hour and it's 3 hours drive from a city. There are only about 80 routes on the whole thing so you can climb new routes on it if you can lead around E2/3 on granite, and I was there on a summer weekend and I didn't see anyone else. This is just one crag that I happen to know because I drove there accidently, the whole country is full of them.
https://cdn-files.apstatic.com/climb/110604922_medium_1494341178.jpg
Compared to that does the price of beer really matter? I can drink any day in the UK! Or am I taking it too literally?
The weather is bad though.
Are you referring to that small grey shiny slabby stuff just outside Sheffield?
Lovely photo. Is it bottom right where Erik's campervan went off the road?
> And the only UK entry is the Lakes. Obviously a very US-centric selection with a few fairly random other places thrown in.
Where's the Lakes one? Am I missing something?
I don't know sorry! It's not my photo. I should stop looking at them a I was meant to be in Norway this summer.
Seemed to have somehow missed off Stannington Ruffs ! obviously an error.
What a bizarre selection !
> Where's the Lakes one? Am I missing something?
I followed a link near the top of the article to the actual book which a has a full list of all 50 places in the book. Most of the more obvious US places are there. It seems a pretty random smaller selection of "overseas" places outside N.America.
It makes no sense to me either. I'm not going to be drinking that much anyway. Hangovers and multipitch don't mix well, and a couple of nights out hardly register next to the overall cost.
Ah OK, I hadn't seen that, thanks. There are some pretty unbeatable venues in that list, but as you say rather US centric... which of course makes a change from being grit centric.
> No El Cap? No Hobby Moor?
... That's 2 of my global Top Five, and the others don't make it either (Cloggy, Gogarth and Taghia).
The Guardian has simply extracted some photos from a third party author's book of the top 50 best climbing destinations in the world.
Furthermore, Stanage is not a world class climbing destination. Many outside of The Peak/s might argue that it wouldn't even make the top 10 in the UK.
Stanage isnt even UK top 20 material. There's at least 10 better crags in the lakes, never mind scotland
As long as people love Stanage, visitor numbers to other crags is reduced. don’t blow it!
> Stanage isnt even UK top 20 material. There's at least 10 better crags in the lakes, never mind scotland
and yet, spending most of my time outside the UK nowadays, I really miss climbing on Stanage but I can't say the same for the Lakes.
> Stanage isnt even UK top 20 material. There's at least 10 better crags in the lakes, never mind scotland
Guess it depends what you're looking for... If easy access to a lot of routes is high on your priority list, it probably has a lot going for it. If you're into soloing I can certainly see why it would be great to wander along with so much to take a quick fix on. I know climbers who refuse to even try Ceuse due to the 40 minute walk in, so what might make a great crag is clearly a subjective thing.
But in terms of quality, would it even make a top 20 UK sandstone crags list?
I haven't spent much time on torridonian sandstone but my brief into would suggest there's probably quite a lot of crags better than stannage within Wester Ross, never mind across the whole of Scotland. If you offered to transport Ardmair or Stannage to my back yard, Stannage wouldn't even get a second thought.
Don't diss stanage! When I lived in the peak it served several extremely important purposes, the most important of which were hoovering up the bank holiday hordes and keeping most of the car thieves in one place.
Couldn't do without it.
Stanage is a fabulous crag.
Edit : anybody who hasn't sat at the top of the platform where troutdale pinnacle , raindrop , etc etc ...watching the sunset over Derwent water having completed a three star classic is missing out on one of life's treats . I've just decided that when all this nonsense eases and it seems appropriate to ( deleted " ends " ) I'm going to do just this on the first sunny evening .
> From a foreign point of view Stanage is a great place to visit, but I can't think of anything similarly 'unique ' in the lakes.
This is an important point when considering a "best in world" book. People generally travel for what they can't have at home - they travel for what is world class in that country. Stanage is arguably world class of its type but the Lakes is probably not. You go to the Costa Blanca for the bolt clipping but not the trad, you go to Wadi Rum for the long scrambly routes but not the bolt clipping, you come to the UK for the sea cliff climbing but not the bolt clipping or mountain trad. You go to the US for everything except sea cliff climbing.
Yes Stanage is a bit short (is there anywhere long in the Lakes? ) But there's also a lot of good, clean and interesting climbing with a rich history in a concentrated area. People I know form here who've visited grit have all raved about it, and the sea cliffs. How would you describe Font? Is that a world class area?
> Stupid article. And what a rotten tilted shot of Castle Hill.
agreed. although I would say that yes, all of those locations are world class (perhaps excluding the artificial wall in Innsbruck as it could be anywhere), the shot of castle hill doesn't do it any justice.
> How would you describe Font? Is that a world class area?
Never been. Probably never will go. Seems a long way to go just to go bouldering and never looks inspiring to me in photos (but bouldering types do seem to rate it ).
> no , there really isnt. From a foreign point of view Stanage is a great place to visit, but I can't think of anything similarly 'unique ' in the lakes.
I don't remember much of my couple of days climbing in the Lakes, mostly longer scrambling routes. I remember a lot of the few times I've been to Stanage, would be nice to return one day.
So, the not very serious ranking of places I've climbed in the UK:
1. Peak
2. Orkney
3. Skye - not Cuillin
4. Cornwall
5. Lakes
6. Skye - Cuillin
7. A small bouldering gym in Cambridge.
> agreed. although I would say that yes, all of those locations are world class (perhaps excluding the artificial wall in Innsbruck as it could be anywhere), the shot of castle hill doesn't do it any justice.
In my view, the wall in Innsbruck is one of the few where there is absolutely no doubt that it is world class.
> I don't remember much of my couple of days climbing in the Lakes, mostly longer scrambling routes. I remember a lot of the few times I've been to Stanage, would be nice to return one day.
> So, the not very serious ranking of places I've climbed in the UK:
> 7. A small bouldering gym in Cambridge.
You CANNOT be serious.
I think you need to get in more.
> You CANNOT be serious.
> I think you need to get in more.
I know, believe me. The gym here is still closed though