UKC

The Guardian missed out Stanage....

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 David Barlow 23 Apr 2020

... as one of the best places to rock climb in the world (though obviously Pembroke beats it anyway):

https://www.theguardian.com/travel/gallery/2020/apr/23/the-best-places-to-r...

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 Robert Durran 23 Apr 2020
In reply to David Barlow:

And the only UK entry is the Lakes. Obviously a very US-centric selection with a few fairly random other places thrown in.

 Rob Parsons 23 Apr 2020
In reply to David Barlow:

Stupid article. And what a rotten tilted shot of Castle Hill.

 Red Rover 23 Apr 2020
In reply to David Barlow:

Why do so many people overlook Norway so much? Is it the weather? 

https://cdn.civitatis.com/noruega/svolvaer/galeria/islas-lofoten.jpg

Post edited at 11:09
 Dave Garnett 23 Apr 2020
In reply to David Barlow:

> ... as one of the best places to rock climb in the world (though obviously Pembroke beats it anyway):

There's another piece on the Organ Pipes in Hobart lower down...

https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2019/feb/28/tasmania-climb-mount-welling...

 d_b 23 Apr 2020
In reply to Red Rover:

I have had a lot of trouble convincing people to go to Norway. The most commonly cited reason is the price of beer.

Removed User 23 Apr 2020
In reply to David Barlow:

No El Cap? No Hobby Moor?

 Red Rover 23 Apr 2020
In reply to d_b:

I really don't get it. There's so much potential. For example there's a crag in Norway which is about 2 miles long and 200 to 600 meters high. All perfect granite, the approaches are less than an hour and it's 3 hours drive from a city. There are only about 80 routes on the whole thing so you can climb new routes on it if you can lead around E2/3 on granite, and I was there on a summer weekend and I didn't see anyone else. This is just one crag that I happen to know because I drove there accidently, the whole country is full of them. 

https://cdn-files.apstatic.com/climb/110604922_medium_1494341178.jpg

Compared to that does the price of beer really matter? I can drink any day in the UK! Or am I taking it too literally? 

The weather is bad though. 

Post edited at 11:42
Blanche DuBois 23 Apr 2020
In reply to David Barlow:

Are you referring to that small grey shiny slabby stuff just outside Sheffield?

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 Tom Valentine 23 Apr 2020
In reply to Red Rover:

Lovely photo. Is it bottom right where Erik's campervan went off the road?

 jon 23 Apr 2020
In reply to Robert Durran:

> And the only UK entry is the Lakes. Obviously a very US-centric selection with a few fairly random other places thrown in.

Where's the Lakes one? Am I missing something?

 Red Rover 23 Apr 2020
In reply to Tom Valentine:

I don't know sorry! It's not my photo. I should stop looking at them a I was meant to be in Norway this summer. 

 GravitySucks 23 Apr 2020
In reply to David Barlow:

Seemed to have somehow missed off Stannington Ruffs ! obviously an error.

What a bizarre selection !

 Robert Durran 23 Apr 2020
In reply to jon:

> Where's the Lakes one? Am I missing something?

I followed a link near the top of the article to the actual book which a has a full list of all 50 places in the book. Most of the more obvious US places are there. It seems a pretty random smaller selection of "overseas" places outside N.America.

 d_b 23 Apr 2020
In reply to Red Rover:

It makes no sense to me either. I'm not going to be drinking that much anyway. Hangovers and multipitch don't mix well, and a couple of nights out hardly register next to the overall cost.

 jon 23 Apr 2020
In reply to Robert Durran:

Ah OK, I hadn't seen that, thanks. There are some pretty unbeatable venues in that list, but as you say rather US centric... which of course makes a change from being grit centric.

Post edited at 14:45
 dominic o 23 Apr 2020
In reply to Removed User:

> No El Cap? No Hobby Moor?

... That's 2 of my global Top Five, and the others don't make it either (Cloggy, Gogarth and Taghia).

 Cusco 24 Apr 2020
In reply to David Barlow:

The Guardian has simply extracted some photos from a third party author's book of the top 50 best climbing destinations in the world.

Furthermore, Stanage is not a world class climbing destination. Many outside of The Peak/s might argue that it wouldn't even make the top 10 in the UK.

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 LakesWinter 24 Apr 2020
In reply to Cusco:

Stanage isnt even UK top 20 material. There's at least 10 better crags in the lakes, never mind scotland

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In reply to LakesWinter:

As long as people love Stanage, visitor numbers to other crags is reduced. don’t blow it!

 john arran 24 Apr 2020
In reply to LakesWinter:

> Stanage isnt even UK top 20 material. There's at least 10 better crags in the lakes, never mind scotland

and yet, spending most of my time outside the UK nowadays, I really miss climbing on Stanage but I can't say the same for the Lakes.

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 Ciro 24 Apr 2020
In reply to LakesWinter:

> Stanage isnt even UK top 20 material. There's at least 10 better crags in the lakes, never mind scotland

Guess it depends what you're looking for... If easy access to a lot of routes is high on your priority list, it probably has a lot going for it. If you're into soloing I can certainly see why it would be great to wander along with so much to take a quick fix on. I know climbers who refuse to even try Ceuse due to the 40 minute walk in, so what might make a great crag is clearly a subjective thing.

But in terms of quality, would it even make a top 20 UK sandstone crags list?

I haven't spent much time on torridonian sandstone but my brief into would suggest there's probably quite a lot of crags better than stannage within Wester Ross, never mind across the whole of Scotland. If you offered to transport Ardmair or Stannage to my back yard, Stannage wouldn't even get a second thought.

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 d_b 24 Apr 2020
In reply to Ciro:

Don't diss stanage! When I lived in the peak it served several extremely important purposes, the most important of which were hoovering up the bank holiday hordes and keeping most of the car thieves in one place.

Couldn't do without it.

 Rob Parsons 24 Apr 2020
In reply to d_b:

Stanage is a fabulous crag.

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 wbo2 24 Apr 2020
In reply to LakesWinter:no , there really isnt.  From a foreign point of view Stanage is a great place to visit, but I can't think of anything similarly 'unique ' in the lakes. 

 mike123 25 Apr 2020
In reply to wbo2: now then, let me think , for about 5 seconds .......I'm going... black crag ( mainly because it has special place in my heart ) , a collection of what ,anywhere else's ,would all be three star classics , from vs to E4 , multipitch , 20 minutes walk, evening sun . Stanage is alright and that, but they're all a bit short aren't they ? 

Edit : anybody who hasn't sat at the top of the platform where troutdale pinnacle , raindrop , etc etc ...watching the sunset over Derwent water having completed a three star classic is missing out on one of life's treats . I've just decided that when all this nonsense eases and it seems appropriate to  ( deleted " ends " ) I'm going to do just this on the first sunny evening . 

Post edited at 10:56
 Robert Durran 25 Apr 2020
In reply to wbo2:

> From a foreign point of view Stanage is a great place to visit, but I can't think of anything similarly 'unique ' in the lakes. 

This is an important point when considering a "best in world" book. People generally travel for what they can't have at home - they travel for what is world class in that country. Stanage is arguably world class of its type but the Lakes is probably not. You go to the Costa Blanca for the bolt clipping but not the trad, you go to Wadi Rum for the long scrambly routes but not the bolt clipping, you come to the UK for the sea cliff climbing but not the bolt clipping or mountain trad. You go to the US for everything except sea cliff climbing.

Post edited at 11:18
 wbo2 25 Apr 2020
In reply to Robert DurranMike123:  I think that's the point I'm trying to make.  I live in Southern Norway and I can't think of anything in the lakes that's a particularly standout place to visit.  Some are good, some are alright and a lot are comparatively mediocre equivalents.

Yes Stanage is a bit short (is there anywhere long in the Lakes? ) But there's also a lot of good, clean and interesting climbing with a rich history in a concentrated area.  People I know form here who've visited grit have all raved about it, and the sea cliffs.  How would you describe Font? Is that a world class area?

 Derry 25 Apr 2020
In reply to Rob Parsons:

> Stupid article. And what a rotten tilted shot of Castle Hill.

agreed. although I would say that yes, all of those locations are world class (perhaps excluding the artificial wall in Innsbruck as it could be anywhere), the shot of castle hill doesn't do it any justice. 

 Robert Durran 25 Apr 2020
In reply to wbo2:

> How would you describe Font? Is that a world class area?

Never been. Probably never will go. Seems a long way to go just to go bouldering and never looks inspiring to me in photos (but bouldering types do seem to rate it ).

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 HansStuttgart 25 Apr 2020
In reply to wbo2:

> no , there really isnt.  From a foreign point of view Stanage is a great place to visit, but I can't think of anything similarly 'unique ' in the lakes. 


I don't remember much of my couple of days climbing in the Lakes, mostly longer scrambling routes. I remember a lot of the few times I've been to Stanage, would be nice to return one day.

So, the not very serious ranking of places I've climbed in the UK:

1. Peak

2. Orkney

3. Skye - not Cuillin

4. Cornwall

5. Lakes

6. Skye - Cuillin

7. A small bouldering gym in Cambridge.

 HansStuttgart 25 Apr 2020
In reply to Derry:

> agreed. although I would say that yes, all of those locations are world class (perhaps excluding the artificial wall in Innsbruck as it could be anywhere), the shot of castle hill doesn't do it any justice. 

In my view, the wall in Innsbruck is one of the few where there is absolutely no doubt that it is world class.

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 Robert Durran 25 Apr 2020
In reply to HansStuttgart:

> I don't remember much of my couple of days climbing in the Lakes, mostly longer scrambling routes. I remember a lot of the few times I've been to Stanage, would be nice to return one day.

> So, the not very serious ranking of places I've climbed in the UK:

> 7. A small bouldering gym in Cambridge.

You CANNOT be serious.

I think you need to get in more.

Post edited at 12:57
 HansStuttgart 25 Apr 2020
In reply to Robert Durran:

> You CANNOT be serious.

> I think you need to get in more.


I know, believe me. The gym here is still closed though


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