UKC

Verdon advice.

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 kp1 11 May 2023

Hi, 

I’m off to the Verdon next Thursday for a few days. The current forecast looks pretty grim so I was wondering what the story is with seepage and if it takes long to dry. We were thinking of doing La Demande and Ula. 
We’re flying into Nice so what are the best alternatives if it’s too wet inland?
Thanks.

 Ciro 11 May 2023
In reply to kp1:

Finale Liguria?

 French Erick 11 May 2023
In reply to kp1:

Lots of climbing directly around Nice if the weather holds there.

 mrjonathanr 11 May 2023
In reply to kp1:

I used to climb a lot in the Verdon, but not so much recently so can’t give detail on more recent developments.

I haven’t done the routes you mention, but I’d expect them to hold some seepage given the features.

However, most of the crag is super compact limestone which will dry very quickly, especially if it’s windy. Common practice is to lower down a few pitches from the top and either top rope back up or pull the ropes and lead up. Either way, you’d be able to check conditions and stop and top rope back up if poor.

If the weather in the Verdon is generally poor, like Erick says,Nice area has decent cragging. I’d recommend La Loubière at La Turbie, just above Monaco. It’s brilliant.

I hope you get some stuff done in the gorge, it’s a special place. Be mindful that bottom to top, accessing the base through the tunnels, will give a great adventure but a very long day. Start fairly early if you’re doing that. Have fun.

 seankenny 12 May 2023
In reply to kp1:

The crags around Toulon are a bit of a stretch but the area seems to be in some kind of rain shadow and can be climbable when the rest of the region is rainy. The outlying Verdon crags in the Rockfax are also fine for unsettled days when you might not want the full gorge experience. 

 dominic o 12 May 2023
In reply to kp1:

There isn’t too much climbing in the Gorge that stays dry in the rain, but Sector Hulk on the north facing, South side of the Gorge is sheltered under huge roofs.Half the fun is getting there. This involves a Tyrolean across a narrow part of the river, then some jungle bashing and some rusty ladders and frayed ropes – and that’s before you even reach the crag!

Another tip for a nearby sunny option is  Chateauvert

Hope you find dry rock! Cheers, Dom 

OP kp1 14 May 2023
In reply to kp1:

Thanks for the replies.  


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