UKC

What Name? at Wyndcliffe Quarry

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 bpmclimb 02 Jul 2018

What Name? (f6C)

Just added a comment to the WQ crag page. I don't think this route exists, even as an eliminate - it must almost entirely comprise holds on other routes. The distance between the small, head-height ledge on The Corrective Party and the left-pointing flake hold near the start of Mr Whippy is only about 1.5 metres (that's being generous); Timmy's Poorly Hand is already squeezed into that small gap, and is itself somewhat eliminate as a result. There's simply no room for anything else.

 Donotello 02 Jul 2018
In reply to bpmclimb:

Wyndcliffe Quarry is a Topographic mess. There's a 1.5 metre space between housequake and croeso y cymru with 4 bolted routes on, and the 4-5 or so guide books or online topo's available are almost all different or inaccurate. Then when it comes to UKC logbook, there are photos attached to routes that are either not the route, or the guidebooks are wrong.  In fairness I haven't checked the Wye Valley Sport book ( I plan to tomorrow to get to the bottom of my last 2 climbs there ) - is everyone taking that for gospel now? 

Post edited at 23:50
OP bpmclimb 03 Jul 2018
In reply to Donotello:

Wye Valley Sport is the closest thing to gospel for sport climbs at WQ - there's just a couple of more recent additions. It only has a small selection of the trad routes though. The UKC database has all the trad. Those two sources are the only ones worth using for WQ - everything else is hopelessly out-of-date.

I moderate WQ for UKC, and it's my local crag: I try to keep it up-to-date. All the routes are there, both sport and trad, including the most recent, and they're in the correct order. More than can be said for many UKC crag pages! I haven't given photos more than a cursory glance, though - if you could let me know which you think are wrong I'll try to do something about it. 

Not sure what you mean about Housequake/Croeso .... there are no routes between those two. Housequake enters the groove in the arete from the left, goes up it, and exits slightly right to the common lower-off. Croeso ... (too recent for the WV Sport book) takes the arete on its right-hand side. It's slightly eliminate because it uses a foothold in the groove to get started, and (possibly) borrows some crimps from the pre-existing trad route The 51st State just to the right. It's a bit squeezed in but definitely exists as a route in its own right .......

...... Unlike What Name! I'm willing to be told different, though, if anyone who's climbed it wants to make the case for its inclusion - but I can't see it myself.

OP bpmclimb 04 Jul 2018
In reply to bpmclimb:

So, more generally .. what does a crag moderator do about a route which has been put in the database but doesn't exist; i.e. almost entirely covers ground taken by other routes, but it's had several logged ascents. Just delete it and lose the logbook entries? Or are we stuck with it?

.... that is, in cases when simply moving the ascents doesn't really work; e.g. when the route has been entered as a half-height boulder problem, and/or holds on both neighbouring routes were used.

Post edited at 09:40

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