UKC

Advice for summit certification

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climbingkid 07 Apr 2020

Hi, can people advise on how they obtain certificates for specific peaks/routes they have climbed?

Most of the times I go unguided with fellow climbers (not part of some big guided expeditions) and it got me wondering why there isn't an accredited company that can provide such a service. So far we have done Denali, Kazbek and Khan Tengri (nothing yet of the big 8000s).

It seems that for Himalayan 8000s you obtain one from the local ministry of tourism which I perhaps is included as part of obtaining the climbing permit as well. Is that always the case even if you are not part of a guided expedition?

What if you are setting a first ascent on a new route?

6
 Grahame N 07 Apr 2020
In reply to climbingkid:

I believe you can apply for a Piolet d'Or if you complete a noteworthy Himalayan ascent.

Also, you can obtain a Certificate from the SMC if you climb all the 3000ft hills in Scotland (Munros), and also purchase a specially designed Munroist tie or brooch. See https://www.smc.org.uk/hills/completionists

Perhaps the BMC could award ties or brooches for first ascents of routes of particular quality or significance.

In reply to climbingkid:

Good luck! I suspect the UKC hounds of hell will descend on you soon, kid.

In short, its seen to be OK for munroists but not cool for Alpinists & rock climbers, although list ticking is allowed but people can get embarrassed by it. To understand why I suggest you start with Scrambles in the Alps by Edward Whymper, then The Games Climbers Play before Touching the Void and then keep reading. 

 Misha 07 Apr 2020
In reply to climbingkid:

The only constructive suggestion I can make is to use the UKC logbook facility. If the route / mountain isn’t on it, you can add it. Plus Facebook and Instagram.

An old lady used to record details of all Himalayan expeditions. Mostly of interest for statistical / historical purposes.

Obviously if an ascent is newsworthy, ie first ascent or rare repeat, it may well be mentioned in the climbing media.

Other than that, the climbing community doesn’t really do certificates. People tend to trust others to tell the truth when they claim to have done a route (although these days it would be rare not to have any photos etc if it’s anything significant). For the climbers themselves, a personal sense of achievement, (usually) happy memories and perhaps some photos and a log on UKC and/or social media tend to be sufficient.

Memory fades with time (well at least mine does), which is where photos, logs and social media posts come in handy, particularly at this difficult time when we can look back on past experiences and look forward to new ones.

 Sean Kelly 07 Apr 2020
In reply to climbingkid:

There is a very good certification scheme run by The British Union of Mountaineers. However in order to be awarded the relevant award for a particular climb it has to be validated by your second on the route that day (note that only leaders can be considered for the award), and also endorsed by the secretary of your climbing club. The certificate is a different colour for each grade of climb, but all E routes have a star for each E point (currently 12 stars is the maximum awarded). Alpine routes have a golden Axe on the certificate, the more axes, the more difficult the climb. Himalayan climbing has a Yeti  and as the others, the more Yetis...etc.

It should be noted that if the applicant died during the descent no certificate can  be awarded. If you have any other queries get in touch with BUM. 

The only downside to this admittedly excellent scheme is that after a lifetime of mountaineering success the paperwork builds up alarmingly but BUM is considering some form of lifetime achievement award, possibly a golden T-shirt with laurel leaf cluster. Hope this helps.

1
 AndyC 07 Apr 2020
In reply to Misha:

> An old lady used to record details of all Himalayan expeditions. Mostly of interest for statistical / historical purposes.

An old lady? Noooooo! You can't refer to Liz Hawley and the Himalayan Database in such irreverent terms. You are referring to a complete history of Himalayan climbing!

 Misha 07 Apr 2020
In reply to AndyC:

Unfortunately I couldn’t remember her name.

 HardenClimber 07 Apr 2020
In reply to Sean Kelly:

> The only downside to this admittedly excellent scheme is that after a lifetime of mountaineering success the paperwork builds up alarmingly but BUM is considering some form of lifetime achievement award, possibly a golden T-shirt with laurel leaf cluster. Hope this helps.

Are those BUM Forms?  

In reply to climbingkid:

Apparently the Munro Society have been ordered by Mountaineering Scotland on the advice of the Scottish Government to issue certificates based on predicted ascents during the Covid crisis.

You need to submit your coursework (e.g. walks round the local park, home exercise regimen, climbing films watched) and predict which peaks you would have ascended this summer.

1
climbingkid 07 Apr 2020
In reply to tom_in_edinburgh:

Love it, some real Scottish mountaineering humor there. I will get cracking with my list in that case.

climbingkid 07 Apr 2020
In reply to Heartinthe highlands:

The 'hounds of hell', got me worried now. I think I will quarantine myself at home.

I get it, Alpinism is a lifestyle and I totally embrace that. It is 2020 though and we should celebrate climber's achievements in some more sophisticated way. Thanks for the suggestions!

5
 JLS 07 Apr 2020
In reply to climbingkid:

Anytime I climb a first ascent on an unclimbed Himalayan peak I go here for my certification...

https://images.app.goo.gl/3nKYqBBYrKFytu6HA

climbingkid 07 Apr 2020
 Mark Kemball 07 Apr 2020
In reply to climbingkid:

But you spoiled it by replying to your own post.

1
 GrahamD 08 Apr 2020
In reply to climbingkid:

As a 5 year old I'm sure I got a Malvern Hills one from the Summit Cafe (as was).or possibly a sew on badge.

Post edited at 08:25
 Larefia 15 Apr 2020
In reply to climbingkid:

You could try seeing if your GP will certify you for Summit Fever?

 Lankyman 15 Apr 2020
In reply to climbingkid:

Climb this and you will definitely be certified The Storr


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