UKC

I was looking for easy-going rock climbing on the south side of Mont Blanc, and noticed that there seem to be some nice looking granite routes on the Aiguille Croux, from the Monzino Hut.

There doesn't seem to be much available online in terms of a topo - can anyone recommend the best guidebook (or source of topos) for rock climbing on the Courmayeur side of Mont Blanc? Hopefully there'll be one in English, but can muddle along in other languages if need be....

(I have the Chamonix Rockfax guide but it only really covers the bigger mountain routes that are approached from the Italian side.)

Aiguille Croux

I think we the Aguille Croux is in the very first Piola topo but they are like rocking horse shite but I’m certain photo copies of the relevant pages were pinned up in the Monzino hut and we took some photos of it. Sorry, that’s not much help but I really only came on here to say Que cherche-tu Jean Marie? (ED1) is brilliant. We also did this route which was also really excellent Venus (6b+) up the other valley from Courmayer

I don't know about guidebooks, but there are a few hand-drawn topos on Camptocamp. The campsite in Val Veny also gave us some useful information a few years ago. The Voie Ottoz-Hurzeler (TD) is a fantastic route, with incredible terrain for the grade.

Thanks, I'll see what I can find on Camp to Camp. It sounds like it's worth checking out at some point regardless!

the Ottoz route (well worth doing) is in the Batoux book

have a look at all the routes above and below the Dalmazzi as well.  There is a good pdf topo book knocking around the internet.  The hut has been shut this summer because of water problems I think.  

This brings back memories. We came across a great topo in the Monzino Hut. We went up soley on the recommendations from the locals running the campsite.

I think the route we did was the SE Wall-S Arête route Ottoz-Hurzeler way back in 2012. Great route.

https://www.summitpost.org/the-main-routes-of-aiguilles-des-glaciers-aiguil...

I'm not sure the Aig Croux is 'easy going'? Schweiz Plaisir contains lots of other ideas...

https://www.v12outdoor.com/schweiz-plaisir-selection.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChM...

The Aiguilles Rouges in the Cham valley also provides many semi-alpine options.

I was meaning in comparison to many of the enormous serious routes on that side of Mont Blanc (Innominata etc.).

I've got plenty of Alpine experience up to D+, on 4000ers and below, and a day out on something like that would be pretty easy going in my book (which is not necessarily the same thing as easy). Obviously not everyone's definition is the same!

(Edited to add: We're out here at the moment and have done some very enjoyable routes in the Aiguilles Rouges. Bit of a walk-in without the lift running though....)

I’d similarly recommend Ottoz Route, though it’s sure a lengthy walk-in. We used the Batoux Guide topo. It was reasonably bolted around the harder sections and more sparsely bolted across easier sections, but still worth bringing a handful of nuts, cams and slings.

Apparently the sport routes up at the Dalmazzi Hut are fantastic, but I’m yet to do any. I listed the best ones I’m hoping to do someday in my ‘Great Routes not in Chamonix Rockfax’ ticklist.. https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=4408

Thanks, and it was your ticklist which directed us to Classique Sud and the Perrons Traverse last week, which were amazing days out - so thank you!

The Perrons was such a beautiful ridge, with consistently interesting scrambling / climbing throughout. It was a warm day so we spent a fair while lounging on the slabs beside the small lakes you pass on the descent (and paddling to cool off) - a really memorable outing for all the right reasons.

the Dalmazzi topo guide is here

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2qdtveajqvo7c1h/GUIDA%20ARRAMPICATA%20BACINO%20TR...

You need Valle d'Aosta Sport Climbing

2018 Massimo Bal and Patrick Raspo.

Wonderful guide and the English is outstanding. It's about 600 pages

You'll find 'Venus' that Tyler refers to in the section on Parete dei Titani page 96. It's in Val Ferret, which I haven't done but will next year. (I hope).

The Dalmazzi was closed last year- great routes done them all, lovely hut. Tnx to cdpej for the topo. It would normally close mid Sept depending on weather.

The Monzino is closed

https://www.lovevda.it/en/database/22/mountain-refuges/courmayeur/franco-mo...

Perfect thanks! I don't think we'll make it up there this trip (not least as the hut is closed), but will buy that guidebook for future trips.

Thanks. Climbing from the Monzino is certainly a memorable experience, and very alpine.

I wouldn't bother with the routes on the Titani (I've done 2) - which are on the approach to the Monzino - they're not in the same class.

Hope you have a great trip.

John C