/ Anyone use Phantom Techs for summer alpine?
What is your experience?
I used Phantom 6000s last year which to say was overkill is a bit of an overstatement (I was not sure of conditions and was hoping for some icy couloirs so wanted to take solid B3s and this is all I had). I used them for low grade alpine routes (AD ridges including the Cosmiques Arete) and approaches to more technical climbing. It was pretty warm whilst I was there so was mostly on rock with some snow patches (apart from the long approaches of course).
Yes, they were a bit cumbersome at times but overall were good. Needed to think about my feet positions at times but that was no bad thing. I liked the security provided by the stiffness when doing proper climbing moves and I have always found them comfortable for approach walking. I did not find them over warm but tend to have quite cold feet so like well insulated boots. As the Techs are less cumbersome I think they will be ever better and certainly won't give you any issues.
Certainly if they are all you have then I would use them as opposed to spending out on some B2s. I also think the Techs will be a good all rounder covering summer Alpine, UK winter and water ice.
Wouldn’t recommend it as approaches and rock climbing will wear down the sole rather quickly. I think Scarpa were bringing out a version with a more hard wearing sole so if you have that it might be better. Even so, I’d avoid using them on anything involving much walking or climbing on rock to prolong their lifespan.
You're right, a new version that promises a more durable sole, among other changes, is due out later this year. We'll be reviewing it of course...
Good point. My 6000s have worn quite a bit - so whilst they are comfortable for rock and approach they are not the most durable.
You can get them resoled (Feet First) but in the long run it’s probably more cost efficient and certainly less hassle to get a separate summer alpine boot, which will also be lighter and easier to climb in. Although if you suffer from cold feet, a warmer boot is obviously sensible.
Scottish climber Robbie Phillips has completed the 'Alpine Trilogy', a trio of the hardest multipitch rock climbs in Europe, by climbing Des Kaisers neue Kleider 8b+ in Austria.