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August Saas Valley advice

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 K_Maywood 20 Jun 2022

Hello all,

My Partner and I are heading out to Saas 2nd-12th August. I thought I'd pop a topic on here in hope that the hive mind can answer questions and chuck some advice over.

We're thinking of Mischabel campsite, do they charge for nights that you're up high/ in a hut? are they normal rock up and pay, or do they need pre-booking? 

We quite like the idea of Mittaghorn - Allalinhorn - Weissmies - Lagginhorn - Any other suggestions please feel free to recommend! 

We're thinking of only taking a light rack and possibly a 40m rope to keep things light and enjoy the mountaineering routes.

What are lift prices like? 

Any recommendations on the best books/guidebooks for alpine routes in the area?

For info: We have a night booked in the Almageller Hut and Weissmies Hut already, we both have experience of alpine climbing in and around Chamonix, winter climbing and summer mountain trad in the UK.

Thanks to all in advance,

K

 LakesWinter 20 Jun 2022
In reply to K_Maywood:

Nadelhorn normal route is excellent if you are looking for easier mountaineering routes in the area. The Flestchorn normal route is also a nice and varied glacier expedition but I would check locally/on camptocamp to ensure the glacier is in a suitable condition nearer the time. You can do Fletschhornfrom the Weissmies hut and if you go up early enough the afternoon before you can do Alpendurst (4c) on the Jegihorn. A nice, easy route with equipped belays and great views.

Post edited at 13:51
 JLS 20 Jun 2022
In reply to K_Maywood:

> Hello all,

> My Partner and I are heading out to Saas 2nd-12th August. I thought I'd pop a topic on here in hope that the hive mind can answer questions and chuck some advice over.

> We're thinking of Mischabel campsite, do they charge for nights that you're up high/ in a hut? are they normal rock up and pay, or do they need pre-booking? 

My understanding from past posts is that you don't pay for your days at huts.

> We quite like the idea of Mittaghorn - Allalinhorn - Weissmies - Lagginhorn - Any other suggestions please feel free to recommend!

The decent of the Weissmies towards the Weissmies hut has a poor reputation for serac danger.

> We're thinking of only taking a light rack and possibly a 40m rope to keep things light and enjoy the mountaineering routes.

40m sounds fine but retreat from rock routes like Alpendurst might be trickier if it were nessecary.

> What are lift prices like?

In recent years local bus and lifts have been covered by the visitor tax you'll pay at the campsite so are essentially free. The exception being the train you'll need for Allalinhorn which is pretty expensive.

> Any recommendations on the best books/guidebooks for alpine routes in the area?

I find the Plaisir books are pretty good though having other older guides to the area I've not upgraded.

https://climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/schweiz-plaisir-alpin-guidebook-f...

> For info: We have a night booked in the Almageller Hut and Weissmies Hut already, we both have experience of alpine climbing in and around Chamonix, winter climbing and summer mountain trad in the UK.

As LakesWinter suggests, Alpendurst is a lovely chilled day out on rock. The routes either side are a little more adventurous.

> Thanks to all in advance,

> K

 streapadair 20 Jun 2022
In reply to JLS:

> My understanding from past posts is that you don't pay for your days at huts.

as long as you tell them before you go up.

 Rob Exile Ward 22 Jun 2022
In reply to K_Maywood:

We're going to Saas at the beginning of July, so I'll give this a bump. We've got plenty of guidebooks but would be interested in persona recommendations for classic snow plods, and classic rock routes, up to 6a/500m. As well as campsite recommendations for a campervan!

 Heike 22 Jun 2022
In reply to K_Maywood:

Hi,

I can recommend the Portjengrat from the Almagellerhütte. It's great and not that busy as it is not quite a 4000er.

Link below

https://almagellerhuette.ch/en/klettertouren/

https://www.summitpost.org/pizzo-d-andolla-portjengrat/394315

Post edited at 12:08
 RobAJones 22 Jun 2022
In reply to K_Maywood:

> We're thinking of Mischabel campsite, do they charge for nights that you're up high/ in a hut?

I was last there in 2018, then if you informed them you could leave your tent up with stuff in and pay the "tent" part of the fee (about a quarter of the normal rate) You also had to provide proof you had stayed in the huts and only the huts in the Saas valley counted. 

>are they normal rock up and pay, or do they need pre-booking? 

We have never had a problem just turning up, but that is probably the busiest fortnight. 

> We quite like the idea of Mittaghorn - Allalinhorn - Weissmies - Lagginhorn - Any other suggestions please feel free to recommend! 

The normal routes? As JLS says the descent to Hohsaas of the Weissmeis is a lot more difficult/dangerous than it used to be. We had done it several times previously but the last time we did it after climbing the North Ridge even with good viability it took us a lot longer than expected and we nearly missed the last cable car. 

> We're thinking of only taking a light rack and possibly a 40m rope to keep things light and enjoy the mountaineering routes.

We've always used a 50 but 40m should be fine 

> What are lift prices like? 

If they are still free with the campsite fees it's just about worth using the short one on the approach the Almageller Hut. 

 RobAJones 22 Jun 2022
In reply to Rob Exile Ward:

> We're going to Saas at the beginning of July, so I'll give this a bump. We've got plenty of guidebooks but would be interested in persona recommendations for classic snow plods, and classic rock routes

I'd agree with Heike that the Portjengrat is really good, the routes in the Dri Horlini are also good for an morning/afternoon. North Ridge of Weissmeis and South Ridge of the Lagginhorn are both worthwhile and doable in a day from the valley. The ENE Ridge of the Lenzspitze followed by a traverse of the Nadelhorn is an excellent day, although I don't think my knees would like the descent to Saas now. The Rimpfischhorn is quite a long day from the Brittania hut so an ascent of the Allalinhorn via the Hohlaubgrat the following day seemed to justify two nights in hut. At a lower level the traverse of the Jegigrat is also worthwhile. 


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