/ Best season/month for Nepalese North Face conditions

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Big Lee - on 20 Jun 2013
Can anybody tell me if Nepalese North Face conditions traditionally vary between pre- and post monsoon and how? Which season traditionally offers the best snow/ice conditions on steep ground (if either)? Or more specifically which months? Does either season offer more reliable weather patterns generally? I'm assuming there's no difference between East/West Nepal conditions but if there are then would be good to hear also. I'm probably looking at the Eastern half. Maybe Everest/Makalu general area. Probably looking at heights of 6-7000m.

Thanks for any info in advance.

alasdair19 on 20 Jun 2013
In reply to Big Lee: Andy parkin and victor Saunders go in the late autumn cold and very stable typically. we were there in November and got snowed on much colder later on but stable high pressure dominates.
Big Lee - on 21 Jun 2013
In reply to Big Lee:

Great, thanks for that. That makes perfect sense.
gavinj - on 28 Jun 2013
In reply to Big Lee: yeah, autumn. Spring not so reliable and by may it starts getting too warm - maybe not freezing at night at 5-6000. Eastern himalaya meant to get more snow but I have not seen this. October or early November probably best, getting chilly and darker in nov though.
Damo on 29 Jun 2013
In reply to Big Lee:

Thought you'd get more responses Lee. I've not climbed in the Khumbu, but I guess you know Oct-Nov is meant to give cold clear weather below 7000m, firmer neve, less deep snow (unlike April) and all that. Valleys clear of snow but more snow/avos above 7500m etc.

But from reports last year it was a bit too dry, a bit too cold and windy and some 6000er routes were a bit bare. Fwiw, this year's monsoon has hit early and heavy, but that's no guarantee it will finish early.

The eastern end (Kanch area?) is slightly more south of course so the post-monsoon season should run a little longer before winter, in theory. I've also heard of more snowfall here but I can't see evidence of that and up on the border, from any pics I've seen, it's really quite dry. Noticeably that the bulk of Slovenian new routes over the years, here and in the Khumbu, are in late October, almost on November. Kanch also has a long walk in and apparently starting low down in the mid-Sept monsoon is leachy and unpleasant.
smithaldo - on 29 Jun 2013
In reply to Big Lee: Maybe mail the alpine club and ask mick fowler?

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