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Book on dealing with extreme cold

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 simc 07 Jan 2022

Hi all,

I am planning an expedition on Denali next year with a couple of trusted climbing partners.

We all have plenty of mountaineering experience, but this is going to be potentially the coldest place we've ever been. I max out at just about -10/-15C 

Does anyone have any good tips for books that especially focus on dealing with cold on expeditions?

I was recommended Polar Exploration by Dixie Dansercoer by a friend. But was wondering if there are any others that I should consider?

Thanks,

Simeon

 Trangia 07 Jan 2022
In reply to simc:

I'm pretty sure Andy Kirkpatrick has written quite a lot about this. Be aware that the lower bits of Denali can get quite hot as well!

 innes 07 Jan 2022
In reply to simc:

Not a book, but this is an excellent expert opinion on clothing systems for Denali....  

youtube.com/watch?v=AKNA5ysyJco&  

 Sean_J 07 Jan 2022
In reply to Trangia:

Hmm, not sure I'd be trusting Fiennes on how to deal with the cold given how he's managed to lose fingers to it!

 MisterPiggy 07 Jan 2022
In reply to innes:

Thanks for the Denali video link. I'll never go, but his reasoning applies to many other trips.

j 🙂

 critter 07 Jan 2022
In reply to simc:

I would get a copy of ' Allen & Mike's Really Cool Backcountry Ski Book ,Traveling and camping skills for a winter environment'

Really useful tips on managing a winter environment for potentially multiple days.

American authored and just seen the revised 2nd edition on there usual auction sight @ £8.95. Bargain for the knowledge.

Post edited at 19:25
 artif 08 Jan 2022
In reply to Sean_J:

> Hmm, not sure I'd be trusting Fiennes on how to deal with the cold given how he's managed to lose fingers to it!

Lost his fingers after falling through the ice and into the water. Was lucky to just lose the tips of his fingers. 

 simc 09 Jan 2022
In reply to simc:

Thanks all for the tips! Some very good suggestions here. The youtube like was a good shout and I've ordered one of the books and have borrowed another.

 Sean_J 09 Jan 2022
In reply to artif:

> Lost his fingers after falling through the ice and into the water. Was lucky to just lose the tips of his fingers. 

No he didn't. He got frostbite in 2000 when he reached into the water to try and pull out a sled(s) that fell in, and he got frostbite again in 2013 when he tried to fix ski bindings with ungloved hands.

 Basemetal 09 Jan 2022
In reply to simc:

No "textbook" but "Minus 148 Degrees" by Art Davidson is worth a read -the first winter ascent of McKinley (as was) and the ensuing survival story.

 gneiss 10 Jan 2022

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