UKC Forums - Chamonix Conditions

Chamonix Conditions

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gavinpeach 13 Jul 2017

Good morning all, I'm looking for feedback recomendations on current conditions of routes around chamonix. Particularly frendo spur, kuffner ridge, arete diable traverse, chere couloir. Any feedback is much appreciated. Many thanks gavin

Toerag 13 Jul 2017

In reply to gavinpeach:

Friends out there last week said it's very dry, but they were doing easy stuff like the cosmiques.

ChrisH89 13 Jul 2017

In reply to gavinpeach:
Not totally current, but was there two weeks ago and it was extremely dry. The top section of the Frendo was very lean, there was bare rock to the left of the rock rognon at the top and the one team we saw/spoke to who did it opted to go up the rognon instead of around it. We had been planning to do it but decided against it. No-one was climbing Chere couloir while we were there except one team who backed off before finishing. The Forbes was extremely lean and much harder than usual, so I can't imagine the Kuffner would be in good conditions either.

On the other hand the rock routes are all in good condition, I'd just avoid most of the mixed stuff...

Post edited at 16:28

ROB W 14 Jul 2017

In reply to gavinpeach:

Check out alpinerob face book page, mountain guide who seems to be out and about a fair bit, and puts up conditions every now and then.

funalps 14 Jul 2017

In reply to gavinpeach:

Hi, I have just posted the English translation of the OHM conditions report on the Alpine Club site, (under News, then Chamonix conditions.) The English version should appear on the OHM site , (Chamoniarde.com) by 09.30, French time, this morning 14/07. The main source for the OHM reports is directly from the hut wardens which tends to make them both up to date and reliable. That said, "conditions" will always be subjective and may also change rapidly.

tjoliver 14 Jul 2017

In reply to gavinpeach:

Frendo - top part looks super dry. All climbable but you going to smashing away at glacial ice for a good while and it's going to be pretty grim. Bring a good number of ice screws and sharp picks/frontpoints if you go for it!

Kuffner - not sure. Most recent I heard was that there were some big, awkward cornices on it. Imagine the situation has improved since though.

Diable - Very dry. All okay when your on the ridge, since it's mainly on rock, but the approach couloir is becoming a problem (it's essentially a steep choss couloir when dry and pretty dangerous)

Chere - dry compared to usual but apparently climbing well.