UKC

/ Climbing guide book, Austrian Alps, advise help.

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pete123 - on 14 Jul 2018

Hi 

I'm looking for some advise, I'm off to bavaria and Austria soon and was wandering if it's easy to pick up climbing guides in the area.

I'm looking at some big multi pitch stuff, nothing harder than French 6b ideally as my partner doesn't really climb... Style doesn't really matter, just looking for cool lines and exposure.

The tour has frankenjura, fussen, zugspitze, königssee, salzburg.. Possibly wilder kaiser or zillertal area. I'm open to suggestions of quality areas or routes and what guide books would suit. I'm OK for frankenjura. 

Thanks in advance

Peter 

IPPurewater on 14 Jul 2018
In reply to pete123:

I don't know if it is easy to pick up guide books in these areas. I usually buy before I go.

This link may be useful for you.

https://www.panico.de/buecher/alpin-kletterfuehrer.html

pete123 - on 14 Jul 2018
In reply to IPPurewater:

Thanks 

 

Peter 

Toerag - on 16 Jul 2018
In reply to pete123:

The Globetrotter shop in Munich has all the guides you could ever want. Can't advise on shops elsewhere though. There is a climbing shop in Landsberg but I don't know what their guidebook stocks are like.

tjekel - on 17 Jul 2018
In reply to pete123:

Bergsteigen.com has lots and lots of topos in your grades. 

If you are finde with long walk ins, the south face of Hochkönig has some of the best rock on the planet.

pete123 - on 31 Jul 2018
In reply to Toerag:

Thanks, really appreciate your help. 

 

Peter 

Post edited at 13:17
GarethSL on 31 Jul 2018
In reply to pete123:

If you can negotiate some German (google translate works well enough) this website was our godsend when in Austria. Though it seems easier to find information if you know the route name first.

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/

There are also really good quality vector pdf's of routes to download. Here's some examples for the Wilder Kaiser. All excellent routes.

Blue Moon VI+ (5*)

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/pdf/blue-moon/?showOptions=pdfOverview,pdfMap,pdfTopo

Opa Highway VI+ (4*)

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/pdf/opa-highway-kopfkraxen/?showOptions=pdfOverview,pdfMap,pdfTopo

Via Romantica VI+ (5*)

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/pdf/via-romantica/?showOptions=pdfOverview,pdfMap,pdfTopo

There is also the climbers-paradise website that is pretty similar and with good information as well. https://www.climbers-paradise.com/en/

pete123 - on 31 Jul 2018
In reply to GarethSL:

Thanks for this, great help... 

David Myatt - on 31 Jul 2018
In reply to pete123:

I was in the Dachstein a couple of years ago and the local climbing shop had no guides at all. The "Best of Genuss" guides though are good...like theSwiss Plaisir guides, ie for up to 6a grades.  I buy mine from Rock and Run or Needle Sport before going out. And yes, the Bergsteigen web site is good too.

MB42 on 31 Jul 2018
In reply to pete123:

I've done some of the climbing round Salzburg and got the guidebooks from http://www.kletterfuehrer.net/ before I went, though there's probably somewhere in the city to get them.

Just be aware if you do buy them in advance the guide listed on UKC for some of the crags isn't correct, which is how I ended up owing both...

The Salzburg/Berchtesgaden covers the crags around the city and some crags to the SW. These are in general single pitch stuff, some of it quite short.

The other guidebook, Salzerkammergut, is a larger volume and covers the area of lakes and mountains to the west of the city (Wolfgangsee, Traunsee, Attersee etc). This includes plenty of multipitch including in the easier grades. Not sure there's many in the super classic category but plenty of pleasant routes up to about 10 pitches in length (and the 30 pitch Kaffee und Kuchen)

We got topos for the via ferrata in the area, of which there are quite a few, from bergsteigen.net

Post edited at 22:18
pete123 - on 01 Aug 2018
In reply to MB42:

Perfect, thank you. Off tomorrow so will make use of all this information. 

 

Peter 

Mike-W-99 on 01 Aug 2018
In reply to pete123:

Henning's blog might be of use too, looks great - https://limeneve.blogspot.com/2018/07/wilder-kaiser-blue-moon-vi.html

He does have an account on here.

Kahti - on 01 Aug 2018
In reply to pete123:

There's a climbing shop in Kempten if you're driving down that way, don't remember the name but it's about a 5 min walk from the town centre (also don't miss the Mammut factory outlet nearby!).

If you go to Garmisch Partenkirchen there is a bouldering wall there if you wanted to ask some locals. Don't know if they sell guidebooks but Ralph that runs it is a super nice guy and could probably recommend you some routes.

The Gebro Verlag books cover all of Germany, Austria and northern Italy in varying detail, and are all written in German and English.

mike smash - on 02 Aug 2018
In reply to pete123:

I went a few years ago and managed to find guidebooks fairly easily ... I  asked local climbers where to buy books (and which crags I should visit) .


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