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In reply to BattyMilk:
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Just in case you haven't read them.
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In reply to BattyMilk:
Hope Mr. O'Brady drops off a little aid for the Askole villagers on his way through. Tough times since Covid killed off the trekking business...
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In reply to AndyC:
I hope Colin O'Brady drops off something else... a cliff!
A w**ker of the greatest proportions if I ever saw one.
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In reply to crayefish:
Goodness. That's a bit strong. What's your beef?
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In reply to TheGeneralist:
He has previous.
https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/2020/02/the-problem-with-colin...
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In reply to TheGeneralist:
One of those chaps who will trample over everyone to reach their goals. Ever read about his Greenland training trip before he did Antarctica? He really treated the other folk on it like crap. And then there is the fact that he exaggerates everything beyond belief... for example, his 'unsupported' crossing was on ski roads for half the way. Just a cocky, self-obsessed pillock who puts a bad name to explorers, especially when compared to gentlemen like Aleksander Gamme or Borge Ousland.
'The problem with Colin O'Brady' by National Geographic does a pretty good summary.
Edit: Wanderer100, you beat me to it
Post edited at 21:13
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In reply to crayefish:
Ah well, doesn't sound there'll be any handouts to the Askole folk from this guy.
Aleksander Gamme - the guy who took a plastic paddling pool to Broad Peak basecamp - respect! Pity about the mess at Camp 3 though, those orange Real Turmat bags are a dead giveaway!
In reply to Gone for good:
Will be interesting to see how he gets on then. I don't think there is an easier way of getting up k2 in winter.
Hats off to him if he makes it.
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In reply to BattyMilk:
There's a typo in the title. It was meant to be "Colin O’Brady having crack in K2 this winter"
Sorry for the misunderstanding.
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In reply to BattyMilk:
Some interesting articles on Exploresweb about the teams that are heading up. I was quite surprised by the overall lack of experience (inc. a 19 year old with little climbing experience), general mismatch of people in teams (more like guided client groups) and commercialisation of it. A far cry from the experienced Polish climbers who conquered most of the 8000ers in winter. K2 (or any other 8000er for that matter) in winter has defeated some of the greatest climbers on earth... what do most of these folk think they'll do differently?
Does anyone else get the feeling that this will all end in disaster?
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In reply to crayefish:
Whatever else, no mountain will get "conquered"
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In reply to crayefish:
> Does anyone else get the feeling that this will all end in disaster?
Either that or there will be a whole lot of noise and not a lot of actual climbing followed by a repackaging of the story as a heroic, world class effort.
Post edited at 08:31
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In reply to DaveHK:
Haha! The latter is inevitable, whatever the outcome.
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In reply to crayefish:
> Does anyone else get the feeling that this will all end in disaster?
That has been my feeling all along - too many people on limited budgets with vested interests in being first on top. Hope I'm wrong but I suspect there will be ice-axes flying on the Abruzzi before the season is over.
Have some friends who are providing logistics for a couple of teams, looking forward to hearing how it goes!
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In reply to crayefish:
> Some interesting articles on Exploresweb about the teams that are heading up. I was quite surprised by the overall lack of experience (inc. a 19 year old with little climbing experience), general mismatch of people in teams (more like guided client groups) and commercialisation of it. A far cry from the experienced Polish climbers who conquered most of the 8000ers in winter. K2 (or any other 8000er for that matter) in winter has defeated some of the greatest climbers on earth... what do most of these folk think they'll do differently?
> Does anyone else get the feeling that this will all end in disaster?
What's changed the whole equation is the teams of Sherpas who now lace up K2 with miles of fixed lines so it can be commercially viable.
It's not that long ago that K2 was mostly spared that, with locals working as HAP's with teams to fix parts. But a year at a time, Pakistan fleshed out it's role between the two Nepal seasons to serve the growing 8000m climbing scene catered to by the large companies. Now the Sherpas with summer experience are going back, and the big companies plus their local counterparts can now run near year round 8000m trips.
Disaster? Could do, but in the past co-operation with the Pakistani military to access and supply winter trips has been solid, which means large MI18 helis and significant logistic support. Doesn't mean things can't go wrong or will be accessible if they do, but a better network in place than Nepal would have which matters when larger business are involved.
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In reply to BattyMilk:
Not sure if this is the same expedition but the BCC have an article about a K2 winter attempt
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In reply to Gone for good:
> He has previous.
Feels like the 'Trumpification' of all aspects of life continues.
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In reply to BattyMilk:
I read that Nims Purja is guiding him, it will be interesting to see if O'Brady takes all the credit...
Post edited at 11:04
In reply to Graeme Hammond:
God that BBC article is dire. It's like buzzword bingo of stupid mountaineering words.
"Scaled"....
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In reply to Jimp97:
I'd heard Nims Purja was out there but didn't realise he'd be guiding O'Brady.
Of course he'll take all the credit if he makes it. Did you see his coverage of the Drake Passage row. He was on the boat with 5 others and none of them got even a mention.
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In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:
> Feels like the 'Trumpification' of all aspects of life continues.
Not sure Trump should mentioned in respect to anything involving physical exercise. 'Gryllification' perhaps?
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In reply to BattyMilk:
Curious how those two will get on. I wonder if Nims will stay cool with O'Brady ruining his chilled vibe. No doubt there will be a picture where O'Brady is very briefly (for 5m) carrying all the Sherpas' gear and he'll sell it as him being the gentleman hero for a few km of ascent.
The BBC is indeed getting unbearable. And fairly surprised they mentioned a couple of European climbers but not Nims.
Anyone know why the sudden interest for everyone to climb K2 this winter? I guess people are running out of firsts.
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In reply to TheGeneralist:
> God that BBC article is dire. It's like buzzword bingo of stupid mountaineering words.
Really? Seemed fine to me and pretty well informed.
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In reply to TheGeneralist:
> God that BBC article is dire. It's like buzzword bingo of stupid mountaineering words.
> "Scaled"....
A vey poor choice of word. Everyone knows mountains get sent.
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In reply to crayefish:
> The BBC is indeed getting unbearable. And fairly surprised they mentioned a couple of European climbers but not Nims.
To be honest I thought it was one of their better mountaineering stories.
> Anyone know why the sudden interest for everyone to climb K2 this winter? I guess people are running out of firsts.
I think you're right. Its the last of the 8000 metre peaks waiting to be climbed in winter.
In reply to Gone for good:
But I wonder why this year in particular has attracted so much attention? Have been some some attempts before of course, and its been the last for a while. Maybe O'Brady let it be know he was going to do it, and everyone couldn't bare the thought of listening to him afterwards, so they all rushed to beat him to it. 🤣
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In reply to BattyMilk:
Good overview of the 20/21 K2 winter season here:
https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2020/12/20/is-whats-happening-on-winter-k2...
O'Brady isn't mentioned, but it looks to be shaping up to be a shit show, with 50-60 climbers attempting a peak that has a 20% fatality rate.
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In reply to BattyMilk:
I'm not a mountaineer but do like reading the stories and whats happening. Watching the videos from the highly skilled climbers on the 8000 winter ascents if just mind blowing of what humans can endure. The poles, Russians and likes of moro are amazing. The stories from the 70s and 80s of genuine mountaineering really have me hooked.
The modern stories of rich inexperienced climbers paying to be dragged up a mountain make me go cold, so to mountaineers it must be 10 times worse. Rather like an hvs climber going to black rocks and bashing holds up gaia and claiming to have climbed an e8.
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In reply to crayefish:
> Anyone know why the sudden interest for everyone to climb K2 this winter? I guess people are running out of firsts.
I don't think K2 has seen a winter ascent, I may be wrong.
Plenty of firsts left for the romantic, not so many cv enhancing/book deal/motivational speaking tour/tv series generating objectives for the unimaginative.
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In reply to 65:
It hasn’t, but a typical winter sees between 0-2 teams, not the 20 odd implied above
In reply to ianstevens:
That was exactly my point.
In reply to TheGeneralist:
> God that BBC article is dire. It's like buzzword bingo of stupid mountaineering words.
> "Scaled"....
Scaled is a buzzword????
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In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:
Yep. In the context of mainstream media descriptions of climbers. Right up there with conquered.
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In reply to TheGeneralist:
More likely just someone looking to use another word for climb.
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In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:
Scaled is of course the English translation of 'escalade' which is the French word for scaling (the walls of a fortress) but more loosely translates to 'climbing' so in that sense its use is entirely appropriate.
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In reply to TheGeneralist:
> Yep. In the context of mainstream media descriptions of climbers. Right up there with conquered.
Nonsense. "Conquered" has connotations completely absent from "scaled".
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In reply to Gone for good:
> Scaled is of course the English translation of 'escalade' which is the French word for scaling (the walls of a fortress) but more loosely translates to 'climbing' so in that sense its use is entirely appropriate.
And going a bit further back, the French derives from the Latin scala, a ladder, so it might well be appropriate for an ascent by Mr O'Brady, if it involves a degree of (unacknowledged?) assistance.
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In reply to Andy Clarke:
> And going a bit further back, the French derives from the Latin scala, a ladder,
Which is knicked from Greek, same word, same meaning. These Romans had no originality
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In reply to Andy Gamisou:
The Romans didn't just copy the Greeks... they also liked girls!
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In reply to Robert Durran:
I’d assumed ‘conquered’ was always associated with Mount Snowdon... 😊
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In reply to Andy Gamisou:
> Which is knicked from Greek, same word, same meaning. These Romans had no originality
Quid Graeci nobis fecerunt?
Post edited at 07:37
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In reply to BattyMilk: think Nims is doing his own thing along with another 2 teams from Nepal... looks like 6or 7 teams are going for it...
In reply to crayefish:
Yep, completely agree. Let's hope we don't see something like another 1996 Everest season disaster...
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In reply to geode:
But premature I'd say... but good luck to him.
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In reply to geode:
If he's managed to conquer the world's second highest mountain single-handed, he must have been a real weapon in a platoon of other Ghurkas.
Best of luck to him regardless of sensationalist reporting, though
In reply to geode:
I wouldn't disagree with that; it seems disconnected from and at odds with the spirit of mountaineering and mountain exploration to me. My mountaineering credentials are thin and end at 4000m though, so my opinion hardly carries any weight.
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In reply to geode:
I agree to some extent... up to base camp things get more blurred as how far does one go? No vehicle up to the start of the hike either? What about mules carrying supplies to basecamp? Obviously the less assistance the better and the more pure it is, but would be hard to refuse a jolly ride in a chopper if you're in his position
But I think from base camp it should be all manpower (and for me that includes bringing up one's own gear). I've seen yanks with armies of porters in tail up to 6000m while they only had light day sacks, and then flying back from 5500m on the way down. Infuriating when you're ferrying 30kg loads up (and poo back down).
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In reply to BattyMilk:
Sounds like the Nepalese are going for it from Camp 4 in about an hour's time. I wish them well and safe down. Rather them than me!
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In reply to Gone for good:
Latest update from the alanarnette blog.
Big Picture
A new winter altitude record, 7800-meters, has been set by @mingma.g with @mingma_david_sherpa , @mt.sherpa, and Sona Sherpa (SST.) Nims will lead the summit team and they suggest there will be no one person claiming the summit but rather a team summit on behalf of Nepal.
This has been Mingma G.’s plan all along with his Sherpa team plus Nims had one client who was more interested in Base Camp than the summit. Both gentlemen have expressed a deep desire to show the world that Nepalis are just as credible climbers as any other nationality on the planet.
Karrar Haidri, Secretary, Alpine Club Of Pakistan, along with Dawa Sherpa of SST gave me this update:
Summit Push on K2 – tonight (1AM approx.) SST team has a plan to get to the top by 13:00 tomorrow (16th Jan). Wating for the remarkable ascent. 10 Climbers: a. Nirmal Purja b. Gelje Sherpa c. Mingma David Sherpa d. Mingma G e. Sona Sherpa f. Mingma Tenzi Sherpa g. Pem Chhiri Sherpa h. Dawa Temba Sherpa i. Kili Pemba Sherpa j. Dawa Tenjing Sherpa
I’ll provide updates on a new post throughout the push as I get new information.
Jangbu Sherpa
Jangbu Sherpa with SST was hit by rock between Camp 1 and the Japanese Camp, relatively low on K2. He was hit in the head and eye suffering serious injury but is now in stable condition. He will be helicoptered back to Skardu for treatment. This is the fourth evacuation this season: two members and two Sherpas.
The computer forecasts have the winds now a bit higher for Saturday at 10 to 15 mph and wind chills “only” -40F!!! Big winds return next week, so the time may be right for the ten people at Camp 4.
These are the teams on K2 this winter:
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In reply to Gone for good:
200 metres below the summit.
Summit Push Update #3, 1:30: (all times local K2)
Mingma G says at 1:00 “We are now 200m away to make Nepal n climbing community proud. “They are now past the Bottleneck, and the Traverse and will summit around 2-2:30 pm local time.
Post edited at 09:21
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In reply to Gone for good:
Amazing stuff if they make it. Slightly disappointing it wasn’t done in a lighter weight style without O’s but hey that’s a challenge for the future and a totally different league to this approach.
On a separate note I’m buzzing this prat Colin didn’t get there first.
I hope they get down safe it’s a long way down.
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In reply to climbit123:
Latest I have, at 15:00 Pakistan time, is they are still 60 m from the top. To be confirmed though!
Did Colin leave BC?
In reply to climbit123:
> On a separate note I’m buzzing this prat Colin didn’t get there first.
Me too! I bet he'll have some reason for not making it of course, but thank god for saving us from his BS smugness! Would have put me off high altitude climbing for life 😅
Really great that it seems to be a unity team of Nepalese... from the options, I think that was a good result. Best of luck to them in closing off a chapter in history.
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In reply to AndyC:
The descent will be a nightmare. Luckily there is no wind at the moment.
In reply to climbit123:
> On a separate note I’m buzzing this prat Colin didn’t get there first.
I'm sure he'll be able to get the accolade of first winter ascent of K2 while wearing a purple jacket and pink helmet next year. Should be enough for the book deal.
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In reply to Denning76:
"The Impossible Jacket"
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In reply to climbit123:
Apparently Migma G is climbing without O’s
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In reply to Dave 88:
Think he might be now.
Cant imagine what it's like up there. Luckily the weather is playing ball.
In reply to BattyMilk:
Sergi has had a fall from what twitter reports are saying. Don't think he was in summit group.
In reply to BattyMilk:
They summited
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In reply to mark s:
Amazing feat! I hope they all get down ok. Incredible piece of history in the making and from a group of Nepalese Sherpas (mostly) that deserves more recognition. Hats off to them!
I'll be popping the bubbly tonight in their honour.
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In reply to crayefish:
> Amazing feat! I hope they all get down ok. Incredible piece of history in the making and from a group of Nepalese Sherpas (mostly) that deserves more recognition. Hats off to them!
> I'll be popping the bubbly tonight in their honour.
A fine way to complete the last of the 8000 metre peaks in Winter. Its fitting that the Nepalese Sherpas were able to claim this particular prize in high altitude climbing.
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In reply to Gone for good:
Nice words from Colin O'Brady on instagram about the sherpa summitters:
"10 Nepalese climbers collaborated to make the first ascent of K2 in winter today at 5pm local time. Huge congratulations to all of the climbers on this success. I can’t think of a more deserving group to achieve this unparalleled feat. Historically, Nepalese Sherpa have been the backbone of most major high altitude climbing expeditions, but too often their names have been passed over by history. It’s a monumental moment in climbing history for these 10 Nepalese men to claim “the last great prize in mountaineering.” Well deserved! Immense congratulations."
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