UKC

Hi, due to high temps and a dry winter throughout alps our focus has now changed from snowy routes to more objectively safer rock routes. 
We’ve previously visited this area and climbed rock routes in Ailefroide and on the aiguille dibona and are looking for some alpine route suggestions.
We’re not overly rock fit and so fancy steady alpine Rick around AD. 

Any help/inspiration would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance (quieter routes the better)

Hi Rikardo, some suggestions below.

Ailefroide side:

• Traverse of the Sialouze. Great rock, Dibona-esque granite. If after AD it might be top end of the range, but definitely something to work towards as it is a fantastic route! https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54496/fr/aiguille-de-sialouze-traversee-a...
• Cineastes traverse. Slightly easier than the above, but will be busier as it is very accessible. Can be done in a day from the valley by a fit and competent party. May not need snow gear so light sacs (check with hut first). https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54999/fr/pointe-des-cineastes-traversee-d...
• Coste Counier. A nice traverse. Can be done in a day if fit and competent. Lovely valley, quieter than Cineastes. Again, may not need spiky stuff (check with hut first). https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/55213/fr/dents-de-coste-counier-arete-s
• Glacier Blanc S ridge. Will take you a bit higher in the glacier blanc basin, giving good views. Perhaps intrinsically a bit less interesting though. https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54117/fr/pic-du-glacier-blanc-arete-s
• Louise S ridge. Probably preferable to the Glacier Blanc route above, and quieter. Great views! https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54676/fr/pointe-louise-arete-se-dite-aret...

La berarde side:

• Other routes from the Soreiller - Aiguille Centrale/Occidental/Orientale all have appropriate, nice sunny ridges on good rock.
• Rouget/Geny likewise. Voie des Plaques etc.

Others:

• For something quieter, head to the Pave hut. You’ll get solitude, good rock and some nice peaks with good views of the Meije etc. Look at ridges on Emma and the Pic Nord des Cavales for starters.
• Nuit des Refuges ridge on Grande Ruine. Big walk in, beautiful place, will feel quite high as far as rock routes at the grade can do in the Ecrins. https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54491/fr/grande-ruine-pointe-brevoort-la-...

Most of the routes I've done from Ailefroide have been snow plods or mixed (eg Barre des Ecrins) but I have done the Arete des Cineastes mentioned above & another rock route up another arete nearby (name forgotten). The Cineastes was much better & recomended unless its changed in the 20 years since I climbed it.

Always regretted not trying something on the Aiguille de Sialouse (spelling ?) but I think the routes are more like TD than AD

Some great suggestions above,

If you haven't got it get the Oisans Nouveau Oisans Sauvage livre est guidebook by Cambon, cover's lots of the routes you're after.

Just a word of warning for the guide the star rating is not about quality but about gear 1 star being fully bolted and 4 star fully trad.

Not really the Écrins but close just above Briançon, check out the Cerces are some amazing rock routes and quiet if you go to the venues with a hour plus walk in. 

The routes on the SW face start at TD (done from the Sele - just got back from one yesterday as it happens!) but if talking about the traverse from the Pelvoux hut, it’s about D- from memory, regularly done and on largely excellent rock. The descent was re-equipped about a decade ago and it is now pretty straightforward too.

Really good list Tom

whilst everyone is clicking on Tom's knowledgeable and uptodate list, its worth noting that camp to camp is funded differently to UKC.  They are looking for contributions!  There are more and more English language descriptions on there.

https://forum.camptocamp.org/t/c2c-a-besoin-de-vous/300602

From La Berarde/Etancons valley there is the traverse of the Tete Sud du Replat - up the SW arete at AD and down the NE arete at F.    It starts by gaining le col de la Selle from the Chatelleret hut.  It's airy, not too long and the rock is - or was - good.

It's a good idea to ask at the refuge about the state of any route you plan on doing in these days of climate change.

An absolute star, all of that info is very welcome. 
Now making plans👍

Thanks Doug

Thanks 👍

Slightly left of field suggestion, Arêtes de la Bruyères (AD).

Arete des Cineastes is a good call.
The traverse of the Sialouze is quite a handful if your only looking for AD routes. 
 

Lots of great recommendations, nice one!

anyone have a recent take on conditions? Guessing they’re not great…

We did the Dents de Coste Counier at the end of June from the Bans hut.  No snow on approach and only a small patch on the descent.  Walked in approach shoes (plus climbing shoes for more delicate climbing pitches)  No need for crampons or axe even then. 

Much quieter than main Ailefroide area, we were only 3 people in hut and only people on the route.  Lovely day out and, if you find you are going too slowly you can escape half way. Short walk in from car park as well, 1.5 hours? 
Just make sure you get the correct route down, you need to go a long way East before descending the ridge to the hut.  

L'Alpe du Pin off the road on the La Berarde side is an awesome place. You can park in Sainte Christophe-en-Oisans and drop down into the valley, do a ten pitch route up alongside the waterfall and then stay in the hut. The next day there's fully bolted routes up one of the peaks above the plateau, I think Le Pierroux. Highly recommended.

Try either of these for a proper alpine feel but with only an hour walk from the carpark. 10 mins drive from Ailefroide. 
 

soleil Glacial (TD)

Soleil Trompeur (D)