UKC

Eiger north face conditions

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paddy cave 29 Mar 2011
Hey,

Has anyone got any idea of conditions on the Eiger n.face?

Anything getting climbed?

cheers, Paddy.

Tim Chappell 29 Mar 2011
In reply to paddy cave:

Hi, I was up there at lunchtime. The Harlin Route was a bit thin today, I thought, so for my second lap I just took the classic 1938 line with all the other punters to ensure I was back at my desk for 2 sharp.

Steep, the Eiger North Face, isn't it?
 deepstar 29 Mar 2011
In reply to Tim Chappell:
> (In reply to paddy cave)
>
> Hi, I was up there at lunchtime.

So was I,I waved at you from the exit cracks but you did`nt wave back you snotty git!
RichieBizzle 29 Mar 2011
In reply to paddy cave: Troll... and not a great one at that
 Mr Powly 29 Mar 2011
In reply to RichieBizzle:

Why would this be a troll?
paddy cave 29 Mar 2011
In reply to RichieBizzle:
> (In reply to paddy cave) Troll... and not a great one at that

Ahh, you've lost me!

Just want to know if anyones been on it, does that seem unbelievable?

RichieBizzle 29 Mar 2011
In reply to Mr Powly: Just the previous post didn't seem all the believable... If I am wrong, apologies
 Morgan Woods 29 Mar 2011
In reply to Tim Chappell:

i dont say this very often but...







LOL!
 James Edwards 29 Mar 2011
In reply to Tim Chappell:
> Steep, the Eiger North Face, isn't it?

I know that you are just kidding around because mostly it isn't that steep.

In response to the original poster, i haven't heard specifically of the Eiger getting done, other things yes, but i am a bit out of touch with winter in the Alps this year as i haven't been out. You might send a private email to John Griffith at Alpine Exposures as he is Chamonix based and may have a better idea.
James e

Tim Chappell 29 Mar 2011
In reply to deepstar:
> (In reply to Tim Chappell)
> [...]
>
> So was I,I waved at you from the exit cracks but you did`nt wave back you snotty git!



Well, you weren't wearing authentic period climbing gear.
 deepstar 29 Mar 2011
In reply to Tim Chappell:
> (In reply to deepstar)
> [...]
>
>
>
> Well, you weren't wearing authentic period climbing gear.

Yes I confused Crampon with Tampon.
 stewieatb 29 Mar 2011
In reply to deepstar:
> (In reply to Tim Chappell)
> [...]
>
> Yes I confused Crampon with Tampon.

Better than the other way around...
 conorcussell 30 Mar 2011
In reply to James Edwards: 'Chamonix based and may have a better idea.'

Has the eiger moved?
Tim Chappell 30 Mar 2011
In reply to conorcussell:

Moving all the time <ducks>
paddy cave 30 Mar 2011
In reply to RichieBizzle:
> (In reply to Mr Powly) Just the previous post didn't seem all the believable... If I am wrong, apologies

you talkin about my previous post?



paddy cave 30 Mar 2011
In reply to James Edwards: Cheers for that James.
 smithaldo 30 Mar 2011
In reply to paddy cave:

I thought I had read on errm http://chamconditions.blogspot.com/ something about people going to do it last week or maybe a couple of weeks ago? Might be wrong though.

typical ukc thread this. Why bother posting a stupid reply to a perfectly sensible question.
 deepstar 30 Mar 2011
In reply to smithaldo:
> (In reply to paddy cave)
>
>
>
> typical ukc thread this. Why bother posting a stupid reply to a perfectly sensible question.

But surely that is the whole ethos of ukc?....
 Rjukan 30 Mar 2011
In reply to Tim Chappell: Why is it when people ask for genuinely useful information here there met with a barrage of useless rubbish?
mantlej 30 Mar 2011
In reply to paddy cave: Because it's more fun than working
 smithaldo 30 Mar 2011
In reply to paddy cave: Yes, re-reading that blog some guys did it the other week in ok condition but suggested october might be better as rock could be climbed bare handed. I would imagine it is alot colder up there now than in the post summer nordwand season.

I would also have thought that april would be more likely to have snow showers or sudden storms given prevailing conditions?
Tim Chappell 31 Mar 2011
In reply to Rjukan:
> (In reply to Tim Chappell) Why is it when people ask for genuinely useful information here there met with a barrage of useless rubbish?


That's funny, your page says "Always up for a laugh".
Charlie Boscoe 31 Mar 2011
In reply to smithaldo: Hi, Thats my blog and the Jack referred to is UKC's own Jack Geldard. He certainly seemed to think it was in pretty good nick right now, just not amazing. They got the first train and were on the summit the next evening so can't be too bad. Loads of things in in Cham right now, most of the north faces looking pretty fat.
In reply to paddy cave:
> Has anyone got any idea of conditions on the Eiger n.face?
> cheers, Paddy.

Paddy you dirty troll!! Posting on here is like asking a pair of chimps the same question. Maybe T to the Ripley will know!!
 squicky 06 Apr 2011
In reply to James Edwards: From Jon on Monday when asked about conditions:

Ummm, well pretty shit to be honest. Skiing is terrible all over the alps unless you are happy on piste. Climbing is good but there's not loads to go at either for the moment as its gotten very hot all of a sudden!
In reply to paddy cave: Climbed the 38 route over the weekend. Good conditions, dry rock and good snow and ice in the right places.
 Brass Nipples 14 Apr 2011
In reply to paddy cave:

It's a bit damp today suggest to stick to the VD that goes up the right hand side
 Rick Graham 14 Apr 2011
In reply to Pete Graham:
> (In reply to paddy cave) Climbed the 38 route over the weekend. Good conditions, dry rock and good snow and ice in the right places.

Well done son.
 Chris Sansum 14 Apr 2011
In reply to Pete Graham:

Congratulations. Must be a good feeling!
In reply to Pete Graham:

Top effort and congratulations to you!
 Rick Graham 15 Apr 2011
In reply to Chris Sansum:
>
> Congratulations. Must be a good feeling!

Oh yes.
IMHO no matter how good your climbing cv nothing compares to this tick.
Everytime its mentioned you get a warm glow and think "been there, done that. " or been there, got away with it.

 pog100 15 Apr 2011
In reply to Pete Graham:

congratulations! I have reason to believe that my sleeping bag, or at least one I've I paid for, may have accompanied you. Hope it was warm enough!
 Choss Weasel 15 Apr 2011
In reply to paddy cave: I done the Eiger north wall as part of a beginners winter climbing taster weekend run by MCofS in partnership with Glenmore Lodge. I don't mean to sound like a big girl but I felt rather intimidated by the whole experience and it's put me off winter climbing. I'll just be sticking to my usual haunts such as Neilston Quarry in the future. The instructor kept throwing his head back and doing this crazy unhinged laugh, I tried to tell him some of the group were being hurt by rocks he was dislodging on them but he just kept on cackling away and ploughing on upwards. I've since heard that the route he took us up, I think it was called the Harlin Direct Route or something, is supposed to be more for intermediate winter climbers rather than beginners.
In reply to Choss Weasel: what an arse hole.

Liam
In reply to Choss Weasel:

Clap....clap.....clap..And the crowd goes wild!!!! Congratulations to Choss Weasel who has just won the biggest Bell End award on UKC.....and thats saying somthing.
sphagnum 16 Apr 2011

I hope the instructor had the Winter ML. I think that qualifies you for the Eiger and means you have insurance too.

In reply to Pete Graham:

Congratulations Pete - a very big tick indeed!
Tom Knowles 17 Apr 2011
In reply to paddy cave:

Great conditions and a very modest account of a fast time (7h 45m) on the face reported by Colin Haley a few days ago:

http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/2011/04/verte-courtes-doites-eiger.html
 GirlieEyes 17 Apr 2011
In reply to paddy cave: I love reading all these comments by a bunch of armchair climbers who spend 90% of their time on UKClimbing, 5% of time scratching their arses and the other 5% climbing twice a year in the Peak or North Wales!!
 Choss Weasel 17 Apr 2011
In reply to crcold: I think that's a bit much don't you? Your the bell-end mate.
 jon 17 Apr 2011
In reply to Choss Weasel:

I tend to agree with you Choss. I had a chuckle at your post.
 Choss Weasel 17 Apr 2011
In reply to jon: thanks bro!
In reply to Choss Weasel: i agree with crold, your the arse hole. All those who think the weasel is an arse hole?
 JLS 17 Apr 2011
In reply to Liam Taylor:

I enjoyed his post. Life's too short to worry about the odd random post on an Internet forum.
 liz j 17 Apr 2011
In reply to Liam Taylor:
I think there is a serious sense of humour void on here at the moment!! Lighten up, it was a joke!!!
 Choss Weasel 17 Apr 2011
In reply to Liam Taylor: Explain why I'm an arsehole? What is it about my post that's causing so much anger?
 sutty 18 Apr 2011
In reply to Choss Weasel:

Don't worry about the snide comments, your posting was obviously a joke, unless you are Sir Runford de Hills, the champion bullshitter .

Gave me a smile anyway.
In reply to Rick Graham:

Well done to Pete. I wonder how many fathers and sons have done the North face of the Eiger? Must be a fairly select group! What about grandfather, father and grandson?

As for Chow Saisal's post, I found it quite funny myself.

Another question: how many people have done the 1938 route? I'd guess at around 2000 but could be well out.

ALC
In reply to paddy cave:

Unless you onsite E5 your opinions are not valid!!

Get yourself on here Chimps. http://www.ukhillwalking.com/
 Choss Weasel 18 Apr 2011
In reply to crcold: I don't know about that. Many people enjoyed watching the Dave MacLeod film E11 and discussed how bold/scary the route was but that doesn't mean they have to be able to on-sight an E11 or keep their mouth shut does it?
 smithaldo 18 Apr 2011
In reply to a lakeland climber: Many many more than 2000 for sure. I would have thought more than 2000 brits have done it.
In reply to smithaldo:

I know a lot do it and don't make a song and dance about it but in the 1980s when I was most interested in it I doubt I could have named fifty UK climbers who had done it. My edition of The White Spider has less than 100 teams making the ascent up to 1980/1981. Quite a few of the early ascents were of teams of three or four so let's say that's 250 climbers having succeeded before the 1980s.

To get to 2000 in thirty years you need roughly thirty ascents by teams of two per year. Given that true summer ascents are relatively rare these days, most being autumnal or spring ascents, then there is a limited time frame to make any ascent.

There does seem to have been a recent upsurge in ascents but 2000 Brits?

ALC
 Rick Graham 18 Apr 2011
In reply to smithaldo:
> (In reply to a lakeland climber) Many many more than 2000 for sure. I would have thought more than 2000 brits have done it.

Here you go then, off the top of my head, in no particular order.

Pete Graham + Malcolm Scott
Rob Ferguson + Jack Gelhard
Rob Jarvis + ?
Kenton Cool + Ian Parnell + R Fiennes
Alan Hinkes + Martin Doyle
Bonners + Clough
Haston + Bailley
Fyffe + ?
Holden + Braithwaite + Irons
"davy Crockett" + ?
Big Ian +?
Rob Collister + ?
Tasker + Renshaw
Fowler + ?
Steve Haston
Vic Saunders
Steve Venables
Steve Bell
Macintyre (1966)
Bob Wightman
Die Lampert
Nick Kekas + Rick ?
Andy Cave + ?
Tim Barnett
Mike Osbourne
Paul Ramsden + Pete Green
Nigel Robinson
Roger Payne
Iain Peters
Rick Graham
Andy Jones
Cec Rhodes
Bill Deakin
Mark Seaton + ?
Rob Tressider
Es Tressider
Pete Benson
Alison Hargreaves + ?
Phil Burke

Any body else?
 jon 18 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham:

Martin Burrows Smith and Dave Barton
 jon 18 Apr 2011
In reply to jon:

Eric Jones solo
Steve Monks solo
 Rick Graham 18 Apr 2011
In reply to jon:

Pete Minks
Cliff Phillips
Leo Dickinson
Andy Nisbit
 jon 18 Apr 2011
In reply to jon:

This could get silly...

Minks, Philips, Jones, Dickinson
 jon 18 Apr 2011
In reply to jon:

Snap
lostcat 18 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham: Stu mcaleese and Twid Turner. Stu told me about it not long ago, pretty sure he said it was with Twid
 Rick Graham 18 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham:
Martin Moran
Dave Macdonald
Terry King
Neil Gibbons?
lostcat 18 Apr 2011
In reply to lostcat: And Neill Boyd
 koolkat 18 Apr 2011
In reply to paddy cave: ted atkins and al mcleod
 Rick Graham 18 Apr 2011
In reply to koolkat:

Phil Thornhill
 jon 18 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham:

Mark Heliwell + 1
Nick Banks + 1
In reply to jon:



Zdzislaw (Tom) Leppert, don't know who he did it with but it was in the 1970s

Right, only another 1920 to go to get to our 2000 Brits

ALC
 jon 18 Apr 2011
In reply to a lakeland climber:

Ah, now I thought Tom did it with Pete Holden. Rick has Holden doing it with Tut and Irons. I'm sure Dave Irons hasn't done it...
 Rick Graham 18 Apr 2011
In reply to jon:
> (In reply to a lakeland climber)
>
> Ah, now I thought Tom did it with Pete Holden. Rick has Holden doing it with Tut and Irons. I'm sure Dave Irons hasn't done it...

My mistake. Just looked again at my Cleveland MC 1974 Journal. Dave was with them at the start of the season but not on 38 route. I can ask Pete next time I see him soloing all over Stanage.
lostcat 18 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham: Did Alison do the north face? I'm pretty sure she did the Lauper route on her north face solos, which isn't really on the north face. Although she could of done it previously as part of a team. And I don't wish to mean any disrespect by asking this.
 Rick Graham 18 Apr 2011
In reply to lostcat:
> (In reply to Rick Graham) Did Alison do the north face? I'm pretty sure she did the Lauper route on her north face solos, which isn't really on the north face. Although she could of done it previously as part of a team. And I don't wish to mean any disrespect by asking this.

1988 with ? on 38 route
1993 solo on Lauper
In reply to jon:

Another two: John Sylvester and Simon Yates

ALC
 DougG 18 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham:

> Nick Kekus + Rick

Allen?
 Rick Graham 18 Apr 2011
In reply to a lakeland climber:

Dave Knowles

Ron Fawcett !!! ( in stages for some filming work )
 liz j 18 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham:
Matt Dickinson and Jon Bracey
Neil Brodie+1
 Rick Graham 18 Apr 2011
In reply to DougG:
> (In reply to Rick Graham)
>
> [...]
>
> Allen?

Don,t think it was Rick Allen. Just texted the question to Nick, no reply yet. Why is he not on UKC? Is there anything else to do at home?
 jon 18 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham:

> I can ask Pete next time I see him soloing all over Stanage.

Is he still at it? The last time I saw him he was off to solo Route Major (it was a long time ago) And yes, Alison did do the 1938 route, with Steve Aisthorpe (I think?) and of course, Tom Hargreaves! This last person gave rise to the name of one of Paul Mitchel's (I think) routes...
 smithaldo 18 Apr 2011
In reply to a lakeland climber: ha ha maybe 2000 brits was
a few too many but even a punter like me knows at least ten brits who are not on the list so far, and as they have not publicised their ascents their must be loads more. Good topic this though, like the c.2000 days of ukc with genuine climbing talk.
 Rick Graham 18 Apr 2011
In reply to jon:
> (In reply to Rick Graham)
>
> [...]
>
> Is he still at it?

Oh yes.
I saw him last year when I was climbing with another equally accomplished but little known all round climber. Both Pete and ..... whispered to me
" who's that? "

 Justin Tracey 18 Apr 2011
In reply to paddy cave: Just like to say, I have recent hight res photos of the Eiger North Face taken last week just after snow fall last tuesday. The weather has been stable ever since. I was out there with Paddy and Mike. (on route towards the end of the week) Just got a text from paddy, Well done on your accent guys. Could not have had better company, hope you enjoyed the extra Grub!

If anyone would like me to send then these photos. Please E mail me.
lostcat 18 Apr 2011
In reply to paddy cave: Yes, I remember now! Foetus on the Eiger!
lostcat 18 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham: OK. From my Dads old Alpine Climbing Group mag 1972. Paul Braithwaithe, Pete Holden, Z (Tom) Leppert/ K.Spence, A Fyffe, I Nicholson, D Knowles/ C.J Radcliffe,P.B Scott/ M Burrows-Smith, D Barton
In reply to smithaldo:

I suspect that "under the radar" ascents have become more common in recent years as even in the 1970s ascents were still novel enough to be noted. Or rather ascents where just the mates and families of those involved are the only ones who know.

Rereading the addendum in The White Spider, a lot of the second 50 ascents are by different routes which leads to the Scottish route on the N Pillar by Macearchan, McKeith and Spence.

We are now up around 100 names, let's double it for the unreported ascents and 200 is not going to be too far off for the Brit count, maybe a few more.

ALC
lostcat 18 Apr 2011
In reply to lostcat:And from the 1973/74 mag only one ascenct reported by Dave Morris and Dave Yates
john_not_john 18 Apr 2011
In reply to paddy cave:

john yates(think he was 17)
that bloke from outside(dick t)
geordie guy who died on descent
pat littlejohn

i'd say load of 'unknowns' have done it.

lostcat 18 Apr 2011
In reply to lostcat: It was of course Dave Morris and JOHN Yates!
 Rick Graham 18 Apr 2011
In reply to john_not_john:
> (In reply to paddy cave)
>
> john yates(think he was 17)
> that bloke from outside(dick t) ....Turnbull (sorry Dick) + Frank ?
> geordie guy who died on descent ....Neil Gibbons ?
> pat littlejohn ....+ John Mothersele ?
>
> i'd say load of 'unknowns' have done it. ....Thats the idea to get a list.

 smithaldo 18 Apr 2011
In reply to a lakeland climber: nick wallis and erm James Edwards? Rucksack club journal article.
 Jamie B 18 Apr 2011
In reply to a lakeland climber:

Speaking of the Scottish Pillar, didnt Tom Ballard solo this recently?

 jon 18 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham:

I'd have thought Pat might have been with Steve Jones...? I was climbing with John Mothersele today but he's off to the Carribean tomorrow so I can't ask him!
john_not_john 18 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham:


> i'd say load of 'unknowns' have done it. ....Thats the idea to get a list.

why?

lostcat 18 Apr 2011
In reply to john_not john: Presumably because its interesting. Rather than just say ' oh, loads of Brits have done it', why not try to get together a definative list? A bit train spotter-ish I admit, but the whole history of mountaineering involves keeping records
 jon 18 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham:

Roger Mear.
 Rick Graham 18 Apr 2011
In reply to lostcat:
> (In reply to john_not john) Presumably because its interesting. Rather than just say ' oh, loads of Brits have done it', why not try to get together a definative list? A bit train spotter-ish I admit, but the whole history of mountaineering involves keeping records

Thanks for that. I would not have been so astute.
lostcat 18 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham: Did I reply to your post? NO! Not quite so f++king astute are we!
 Rick Graham 18 Apr 2011
In reply to lostcat:
> (In reply to Rick Graham) Did I reply to your post? NO! Not quite so f++king astute are we!

Temper. I was trying to thank you for your elegant reply.
Anyway, off to bed now.
Night night.
lostcat 18 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham: Sorry mate!
 Rick Graham 18 Apr 2011
In reply to lostcat:
> (In reply to Rick Graham) Sorry mate!

no probs
Tom Knowles 19 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham:

In Colin Haley's report (link posted above), he mentions 9 roped teams on the face on the Sunday he and his partner climbed it. Gives an indication as to how well-travelled the '38 route is when conditions are right.
In reply to Tom Knowles:

I'd noticed that in his report. The route probably goes most of the winter with just a handful of ascents; conditions come good; news gets around (obviously much quicker these days) and it gets mobbed.

To honest it was probably always like that and you'd have several teams on the face for a few days then nothing, except that the teams would be prepared to hang around the area for several weeks checking the forecast, nowadays it's stay in Chamonix doing routes until you get the nod and then blast over.

ALC
Removed User 19 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham:

Dave Page
Ian Halliday (twice) & Mark MacGowan & Roger Webb
Andy Fanshawe & Ulrich Jessop
Robert Durran & Brendan Murphy (not sure if he counts as a brit or was proper Irish)

All late 80s/early 90s.

Has anyone mentioned Cliff Phillips, Eric Jones et al?
 tony 19 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham:

Tony Stone and Dan McManus
 Calvi 19 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham:

Arthur Collins
In reply to Rick Graham:

Scott Muir + ? filmed by Will Edwards (climbing with 2 Swiss guides) for the film of "the Beckoning Silence".

Damon Powell + ?

Ranulph Fiennes!
In reply to Rick Graham: Kenny Grant and Guy Steven, Rob Jarvis's partner was Mike Brownlow
In reply to Rick Graham:

Jerry Gore + ?(non Brit?)
Jon Bamber + ?(can't recall name just now)
Luke Hughes (with Venables)
 Will Sim 19 Apr 2011
In reply to paddy cave: I think if this thread went on for weeks it would only cover c40% of the Brit ascents. When that route is in good shape it has literally three to four ascents a day. The Eiger attracts so many none-alpinists as well, i.e. decent climbers who don't really alpine climb but wanna bag the N.face. In fact i would say that there have been a fair few Brit ascents which were a first/only alpine route for the ascensionist. Such is the pull of "The north Face of the Eiger".
This makes it really hard to make an accurate guestimate.
But i'm enjoying watching the list grow....
Will
 squicky 19 Apr 2011
In reply to Will Sim: When are you & Jon going to add your names to the list?
 Will Sim 19 Apr 2011
In reply to squicky: Ha, keep meaning to drive over. Just always get side-tracked.
Will
 jon 19 Apr 2011
In reply to Will Sim:

You were winding Jack up, weren't you.
 squicky 19 Apr 2011
In reply to Will Sim: Faceplanting is not an excuse!
 Rick Graham 19 Apr 2011
In reply to Will Sim:
> In fact i would say that there have been a fair few Brit ascents which were a first/only alpine route for the ascensionist.

Never heard of any except possibly R Fiennes. Know of several people who have done the Walker as a first alpine route though.

A few more names I recalled on the drive back from work:
Smiler + Jeff Allison
Davy Crocketts real name Daniel Boone?
Tony Park was with Nick Kekas.

 jon 19 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham:

Has Smiler done it since he got winched off it, then?
In reply to Rick Graham:
> (In reply to Will Sim)
> [...]
>
> Never heard of any except possibly R Fiennes. Know of several people who have done the Walker as a first alpine route though.

I do believe that Pete Gomersall was one (on the Walker), might have been his last as well!!

ALC
 Rick Graham 19 Apr 2011
In reply to jon:

> Has Smiler done it since he got winched off it, then?

Ear to ear grin in the Padarn one September night in 1982.
 Jamie B 19 Apr 2011
Aside from Ranulph Fiennes, is anyone aware of any guided ascents?
 Rick Graham 19 Apr 2011
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
> Aside from Ranulph Fiennes, is anyone aware of any guided ascents?

Mark Seaton + ?
 jon 19 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham:

His client, Charles Sherwood.
 jon 19 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham:
> (In reply to jon)
>
> [...]
>
> Ear to ear grin in the Padarn

Unusual for Smiler! Can you remember what year they all got winched off then?
 Mr Lopez 19 Apr 2011
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
> Aside from Ranulph Fiennes, is anyone aware of any guided ascents?

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews.lasso?keyid=35561&l...


 jon 19 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham:

I think Nick Banks (who I mentioned earlier) may have been with Steve Hartland, but I'm not sure...? Banksy is of course a kiwi, so I'm not sure he counts. I think he also did the Harlin a long time ago, but that doesn't make him any less kiwi.
 manumartin 19 Apr 2011
In reply to jon:
In 1986, Andy Cave climbed the Eiger N face with Terry Tremble (Australia) and Tim Barnett (British I think).
 Rick Graham 19 Apr 2011
In reply to jon:


> Unusual for Smiler! Can you remember what year they all got winched off then?

77/78 winter I think. All 6 of them.
 Rick Graham 19 Apr 2011
In reply to manumartin:
> (In reply to jon)
> In 1986, Andy Cave climbed the Eiger N face with Terry Tremble (Australia) and Tim Barnett (British I think).

Tim from Cumbria
2 pairs I recall so someone else to add.
 Rick Graham 19 Apr 2011
In reply to jon:
>
> I think Nick Banks (who I mentioned earlier) may have been with Steve Hartland, but I'm not sure...? Banksy is of course a kiwi, so I'm not sure he counts. I think he also did the Harlin a long time ago, but that doesn't make him any less kiwi.

The Harlin. Respect.
paddy cave 19 Apr 2011
In reply to RichieBizzle:
> (In reply to paddy cave) Troll... and not a great one at that

Just back and happy to report the route is in good condition, fresh snow on tuesday took a few days to settle but is now tracked and the face is getting ascents.

Not a Troll Bizzle - Boom!
RichieBizzle 19 Apr 2011
In reply to paddy cave:

Fair enough, certainly cant deny you that... hope you had a great time!
 alkira 19 Apr 2011
In reply to paddy cave:
Robin Clothier/Doug Hawthorn( 8 days on some haggis and tatties)
Roger Webb?
In reply to Rick Graham:

Will Hurford (with Jon Bamber)
Nick Bullock
paddy cave 20 Apr 2011
In reply to paddy cave: Have posted some photos of the North Face and our ascent of the 1938 route if anyone is interested in the current conditions, photos are 2 days old and weather is still looking good i think.

photos at http://mountaincircles.blogspot.com/


cheers, Paddy Cave.
 BenTiffin 20 Apr 2011
In reply to paddy cave: In reply to paddy cave: Chris Bonnington + Ian Clough
Dougal Haston
Joe Tasker + Dick Renshaw

Ben
In reply to BenTiffin:

So far we have just over 100 names of British successes on the North Face.

ALC
 jon 20 Apr 2011
In reply to paddy cave:

Seems like no-one has said well done, even though you've just added your name and, in fact, started the thread... so well done!
In reply to lostcat:

Yes, Pete Scott and Chris Radcliffe were on a very early British ascent.
 jon 20 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham:
> (In reply to jon)
> [...]
>
> The Harlin. Respect.

Well, now I come to think about it I'm not 100% certain. It was a throw away comment from Nick when we were climbing together in Scotland. After a long silence he managed to say "Fack, oi haven't had hot-aches loik that since I was on the Oiger Doirect"... which does sort of leave the outcome a little open. A bit of detective work is needed. I can't do it now as I've got to go climbing. Maybe Rob D knows?

 Andy Nisbet 20 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham:

Might as well add:

I climbed it with John Anderson (July 1980), on the same 3 days as Mick Fowler & Mike Morrison. In August 1980, it was climbed by Brian Sprunt & Rob Milne.
In reply to paddy cave:

I'm rather surprised no one's mentioned Ray Colledge and Jim Fullalove ('Dan Boone')
 Tom Ripley 20 Apr 2011
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Nick Bullock climbed it with Andy Houseman

I think Dave McGimpsey has done it

I think both Kenton Cool and Ian Parnell had climbed it before they did it with Sir Ran?

 Pinch'a'salt 20 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham:

Off the top of my head:

Jonny Baird, Ross Hewitt, Ally Coull, Andy Sharpe, Es Tresidder, Dave Evans & Mark Chadwick currently on (or rather should be back drinking beers by now) the face. Dave McGimpsey & Jim Blyth

@ Paddy - good effort - think we bumped into you at Eigergletscher on Monday afternoon? - We were there with skis...
 Rick Graham 20 Apr 2011
In reply to jon:
>
"Fack, oi haven't had hot-aches loik that since I was on the Oiger Doirect"...

I used to have the expensive hobby of trying this route. The furthest I got was up most of the first pitch. I certainly did not get hot aches being lathered with sweat trying to climb steep un consolidated snow with a four day pack.
I know a few Brits who have got as far as the First band.
So respect indeed to any better unreported attempts.

1966 route list.
Alex Macintyre
 Rick Graham 20 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham:
Oh. and Dougal Haston of course.
In reply to Pinch'a'salt: Yep, apparently you can add Dave and Mark to the list!
 AndyB123 21 Apr 2011
In reply to paddy cave: Clint Eastwood, and he was getting shot at
 stevev 21 Apr 2011
In reply to AndyB123:
> (In reply to paddy cave) Clint Eastwood, and he was getting shot at

He didnt do the sit start. I think he came out of the tunnel window
wellmn 22 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham:

if by 'Big Ian', you mean Ian Nicholson, I think it was he who did the Eiger NW with Alan Fyffe. I know this because, when doing a course at Glenmore Lodge, I climbed Evans Buttress with him and he compared one of the pitches to the Exit Cracks. He was flattering his students, of course.

wellmn 22 Apr 2011
In reply to wellmn:

Correction - His name was Iain Nicholson
lostcat 22 Apr 2011
In reply to Rick Graham: Kath Bromfield, Pete Rowlands and Stu Mcdonald. Feb 2008. John Barry? I think I remember reading about it in his book.
lostcat 22 Apr 2011
In reply to lostcat: Dave 'hollowfinger' Hollinger and Mike Brownlow Oct 2010
 Ian Parsons 22 Apr 2011
Paul Lloyd ("Lloydy") sometime pre-1984.
The "Frank" with Dick Turnbull was, I think, "Frank The Decorator"!
 Will Sim 22 Apr 2011
In reply to paddy cave: Jon Griffith and myself climbed this route yesterday. Conditions couldn't be better. Good shots here http://willsim.blogspot.com .
Will
 jon 22 Apr 2011
In reply to Will Sim:

Well done you two. About time!
 Dave Searle 25 Apr 2011
In reply to paddy cave: Myself and ally swinton climbed the route on friday.
Im pretty stoked right now. yer!
Removed User 03 May 2011
In reply to paddy cave:

Good stuff all.

Two more for what must be a very long list:

Calum Henderson (afaik)
Miles Bright
 smithaldo 03 May 2011
In reply to a lakeland climber: by 2000 i did of course mean 200 ;0) cant be bothered to add up all the names but there are a few I know of not mentioned already and as will said, would we even get to 40%?

So is 2000 brits a ridiculous estimate still? probably, but maybe not in five-ten years if the current rate of ascents when in condition continues...
 rogerwebb 04 May 2011
In reply to alkira:
> (In reply to paddy cave)

> Roger Webb?

I fear not, I would like to have, but was hit in the eyes and blinded (permanently in one) by stonefall near the top of the Ramp. I was eventually winched off the Traverse of the Gods.

Thanks to Mark Mcgowan Ian Halliday and Neil Boyd for their assistance in an unpleasant situation.
donaldjamesperry 29 May 2011
Dear UKC, What is the best time of year to climb the Eiger? I am thinking sometime in late winter due to all the rockfall from 2006 and global warming, but I have not a clue. I have not been climbing in a long time and now seem to have found some kind of a need to start climbing again. Although I am a steeple-jack and have climbed all the time, which is a plus, except in the last 7 months, I probably could use a hip replacement from being over worked at 51 years old, a minus, but I seem to be getting by ok as long as I don’t go fast. I will have to see how it goes. I seem to be able to limp along through things I previously thought were impossible, but I will need to do some training with special allowances to allow for my hip problem. I think my diet is helping me to grow cartilage; I have been my own doctor. I also switched to drinking mineral water; I think filtered water can suck the minerals out of your bones, and I am more than a little freaked out by fukushima dailchi, although ironically I live in toxic New Jersey USA. I do not need to complete this route, but I need to start this project to keep my mind busy. My goal is to be as safe as possible, and foremost not to get hit on the head with anything, (I have always wanted to do the Nordwand). Although in my mind these two objectives are probably impossible. It seems I am doomed to just keep climbing. I thought I had grown out of it, but I guess not. I have put up some of the very best and most difficult routes in the Gunk’s at Millbrook which took me years to do, but they are not in any Guidebook. The locals have decided that it is fine just to ignore my accomplishments due to being branded for climbing in poor style, and some antics I pulled at one time when I was young, chipping holds in old rock, removing old pitons, and drilling in an old poorly protected route with an old bolt that I almost died on. It seems that I have yet to be forgiven, however perhaps the Eiger has the perfect climb for a guy like me? Hope to hear from you guys soon, any input would be helpful, and I have yet to read all the posts. Yours truly DJP
1
craigloon 29 May 2011
In reply to donaldjamesperry:

Jessica? Can it be true you're back? Praise the lord!
 liz j 29 May 2011
In reply to craigloon:
Haha!!!
 jimjimjim 29 May 2011
In reply to donaldjamesperry: i too have a desire to climb the eiger. Meet me there and we'll make a start. Have you got a flask?
 liz j 29 May 2011
In reply to jimjimjim:
And some beef and horseradish sandwiches??
If you bring some Pimms, count me in!!!
donaldjamesperry 30 May 2011
In reply to jimjimjim: Yea sure I'll bring lots Jim, but you forgot to say when. That was supposed to be the point of all that jargon above. I am sure climing would be the least of our troubles Jim, the quesion is when is the best time to get hit on the head and when is it the best time not to get hit on the head, when? DJP PS How do I know for sure you'll show up? Are you sure meeting at the start is the best idea?
donaldjamesperry 30 May 2011
In reply to liz j: Yes you can come too Liz, but Jim has to spring for the Pimms because I am afriad I might drop them on the way up to the start, if that is OK with you?
 Sean Kelly 07 Jun 2011
In reply to paddy cave: Bill Deakin & Ces Rhodes from the Rucksac climbed the 1938 route about 15 years back.

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