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Ever climbed in Chamonix in winter?

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 bogpetre 27 Jul 2018

I've got a prospective trip to Chamonix in the first two weeks of January, and wondering what kind of stuff I might expect to be able to get on. Interested in hearing from other people who have gone in the winter, especially early winter, regarding what they did. Was in Zermatt last November and it was a bit grim, so hoping it'll be better in January in Chamonix and hoping to find some encouraging news.

Stuff I'm most keen on tends to be better in the spring, things like the north faces in Argentiere, but figure I should be able to find some ice/mixed alpine routes in decent shape in January too. Mostly interested in stuff in the D-TD range, but will take info on whatever.

In reply to bogpetre:

A lot will depend on the amount of snow. If snowfall is light then mixed routes like the North face of the Courtes, Droites etc will be a good choice. It'll make a massive difference if you can Ski and have touring skis. Ice routes on Mont Blanc Du Tacul, Albononi/Gabbarou couloir etc are a good choice if the Valle Blanche is skiable but it may be too early and there may not be a trail to follow which will make it a lot slower than later in the season. You could climb them and get back up to the Midi via the Cosmiques ridge or slog back up to the entrance. Whatever is in nick it will be cold, if you're going high think himalayan rather than Alpine when it comes to gloves, boots etc. The North Face of the Pelerins is also worth looking at as it's easier logistically with a fairly straightforward approach and some good ice/mixed routes.

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