UKC

First trip to Europe

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 gotnoname 19 Apr 2023

Hi folks, I'm trying to get a climbing trip organized for early June.  It's not leaving me much time to get air tickets, accommodations and what to climb!  It all started with someone in a climbing group I belong to offered to organize an outing.  She's in Europe, I'm  in Canada and the plan is to do Matterhorn with a guide.  

Not my first option with all the crowds and the cost of a guide.  But sounds like she knows some local guides and may get a cheap rate.  Sure, why not if I can just book a ticket and have someone figure it all out.  

But I don't want to go all that way to climb one mountain.  Rather I like to spend a few weeks climbing.  Looking for suggestions around that area. Doesn't have to be in Switzerland, could be surrounding countries.  

I'm more drawn to alpine rock, not too keen on glacier travel in an area not familiar with, but if I have to I will. Snow travel is fine.  On alpine rock, I'm happy to lead up to 5.8 trad, follow 10s.  Will entertain some mixed climb as well.

Europe was not on my radar but since I have this opportunity I like to make it happen.  Totally unprepared right now

Looking for any advice for:

Finding partners

What to climb

Logistics - where to fly into, cheap accomodations.

Anything to get me started .... looking at plane tickets now

Thanks!

 Doug 19 Apr 2023
In reply to gotnoname:

assumming this is for real, the Hörnlihütte, the usual starting point for the Matterhorn, isn't open in June

https://hoernlihuette.ch/?lang=fr

 tjekel 19 Apr 2023
In reply to gotnoname:

Fly to Zürich. Alpine climbs / Bolted multipitch + gear:  lots at your grades around Furkapass, up the valley ... Sidelen Hut or Albert Heim Hut. Perfect granit, minimum glacier travel. Mulipitch Sport at Grimsel Pass, a little lower and therefor less weather / snow dependent.

OP gotnoname 19 Apr 2023
In reply to Doug:

Oh boy I will let her know

 olddirtydoggy 19 Apr 2023
In reply to gotnoname:

We're off to the Slovakian Tatras in mid June for some steady multipitch. The topos are not easy to come by but the 2500m ish peaks have some great routes on them that don't need 2 days.

 aostaman 19 Apr 2023
In reply to gotnoname:

Switzerland is expensive. The Matterhorn is 1:1 ratio guide to client by law (same for the Italian ridge). You won't find discounts, but by all means try. They will normally insist on three days of test climbs for ability and altitude, you will pay for this.

Lots of rock in France and Italy, Chamonix, Aosta and other areas. Lots of guide books but I don't understand your grading numerics which I assume are Canadian.

Partners, UKC is a good start there are probably local forums but you'd need to speak reasonable French or Italian. 

Flight destination, lots of options, Zurich, Milan Turin, Geneva and others

You'll almost certainly need a car, it can be done on public transport but it's hard work.

Accommodation: depends where you're going and what you mean by cheap. Italian Aosta non city centre can be good value. Zermatt will be expensive, even supermarket food and drink can make your eyes water.

 Strife 19 Apr 2023
In reply to aostaman:

This place is amazing, and close to Switzerland:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/val_masino__val_di_mello-9...

I had a few weeks off in 2022 and I was driving to the Dolomites with a few friends. We decided to stop off in Val Masino on the way. We never made it to the Dolomites.

In the Val di Mello (known also for its great bouldering) you have numerous, huge, multi-pitch granite routes adorning the mountains. The location is stunning. And to the west you have numerous alpine big wall and ridge routes, all in range of the hut (Rifugio Gianetti). There is even some decent sport climbing at Sasso Remenno, south of San Martino. 

Lots of campsites in the area too. Or you can get accommodation in San Martino.


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