UKC

Does anyone have any recommendations for good accounts of Himalayan climbs done in Alpine style? I'm interested in how acclimatisation is managed without fixed ropes facilitating multiple trips. I know Messner was often climbing Alpine style. I'm more interested in technical partnered climbs rather than speed solos like Steck on Annapurna.

Cheers

In reply to JStearn:

The classic text must be extreme alpinism. Im sure 'training for the new alpinism' also has numerous relavent anecdotes. Both interesting reading!

In reply to JStearn:

You could start with Doug Scott. Himalayan Climber.

The Boardman Tasker omnibus details much of their Himalayan climbing which was mostly achieved Alpine Style.

Some more choices here.

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199735300/Himalaya-Al...

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.climbandmore.com/climbing,44,0,1,books.html&ved=2ahUKEwjq4ND...

In reply to JStearn:

Steve House's book beyond the mountain goes over this a fair amount, focusing on his ascent of the Rupal Face. He's done a couple of vlogs recently that cover a few of his ascents in more detail - they're worth seeking out.

In reply to JStearn: The late Andy Fanshaws book 'Himalaya Alpine Style' or Alex McIntyre and Doug Scott`s 'Shishapangma' both from the mid 90s although dated could be a start  or theres the Fowler way

https://community.berghaus.com/athletes/top-ten-tips-alpine-style-himalayan...

In reply to leon 1:

The Art of Freedom, One Day As a Tiger, In Some Lost Place. 

I'm not in any way experienced in this but a lot of it seemed to rely on acclimatisation climbs to ensure sufficient acclimatisation before a subsequent single push. E.g. climbing separate lower peaks, or the normal/descent route, etc.

In reply to JStearn:

The art of freedom: the life and climbs of voytek kurtyka

In reply to JStearn:

https://www.waterstones.com/book/himalaya-alpine-style/andy-fanshawe/stephe...

In reply to JStearn:

https://www.v-publishing.co.uk/books/narratives/elusive-summits/

In reply to leon 1:

Not a criticism but as a point of interest, shishapanagma was published in 1984. I have a copy that doug scott signed and sent to Jean (alex's mum) who then sent it as a gift to my wifes grandfather for his help when alex died. After he and her grandmother passed away it came down to us. Little bit of alpinism history in that I think.

In reply to smithaldo:  Alex McIntire died in 82 so yes youre right

Time just keeps rolling along without me really noticing

In reply to JStearn:

Steve House talks about it quite a bit in some of his recent (lockdown) videos on the uphill athlete youtube channel. Seems like the basic approach is to do some training / acclimatisation routes on nearby peaks to nearly the target altitude, then go for the main goal in a single push.