In reply to Trangia:
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> I suggest your first ports of call should be the BMC, Mt Everest Foundation, RGS and Alpine Club for general research and to see what funds are available in the way of grants (if any) Chosing an objective or route that hasn't been attempted before increases the chances of getting grants.
Nothing personal Trangia but this kind of advice really shits me. It's become a very British thing to, as soon as 'expedition' is mentioned, start talking about grants, sponsorship and, often, 'causes'. Why must someone else pay for your holiday? If it's so important to you, pay for it yourself.
BMC, RGS are fine as first ports of call to get info and contact details, but inexperienced people applying for 'grants' is another story. Most first expeditions to the (trumpets blare) Greater Ranges fail not because the route was too hard but because of logistics, personal issues, unfitness, weather and all sorts of things.
Learning to deal with all these things, without taking up a grant, and making mistakes along the way, without wasting other peoples' funds, is best done on a trip funded yourself. Peru, Bolivia etc are great places to learn the expedition trade without the red-tape and political issues of the Karakoram / Himalaya, and without the pressures of living up to external funding from grants or sponsors. You can actually have fun. You are free to focus on the climbing and the place itself without constantly thinking of what will go in the Expedition Report for the MEF/BMC/AC/FBI/R2D2 or whatever.
To the OP:
- Nepal is easy to organise via an agent, but costs add up, even for bare-bones trips. You don't have to go to the popular peaks, there are plenty of lesser visited areas that are very interesting and sometimes cheaper than the popular brands. Nepal is easy cos there is a tradition and infrastructure for expeditions, porters, travel etc.
- India has lots of good areas for exploratory trips and some good infrastructure but the red-tape issues can be a worry. Regulations are improving but will take time to get right. Logistics/access can be very good in many areas.
- Pakistan has the most amazing big peaks but they are hard, the approaches alone tax most people, and you may have security concerns, more with getting to the mountains rather than in the mountains. The red tape situation is currently pretty cheap and *relatively* good, but porter costs will add up for longer trips.
- Tibet is expensive and currently hard, if not impossible, to get into for remote areas, despite what some people may tell you
- the rest of China can be interesting but access can be sporadic due to govt 'security' issues, but if that's not a problem the access can be good
- in general, get familiar with Google Earth, the AC's Himalayan Index and the free online archives of the AC and AAC and Himalayan Club. All fantastic resources. Work out where the popular commercial peaks are, then look to the side.
http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/hi/screen1.php
http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Browse_search.html
http://americanalpineclub.org/site/aajsearch
http://www.himalayanclub.org/the-himalayan-journal/search-the-journal/