UKC

I’m interested in climbing the easy Samdo/Pallo Peak (5010m), followed by  Sano Larkya (5807m) for acclimatisation, and then my principal objective of Larkya peak (6249m), north of  Manaslu.

I can’t find any information  or route descriptions of Sano Larkya and Larkya Peak, other than a comment the easiest routes are AD-PD grade respectively. Has anyone climbed them, and is willing to  send me details?  Are there better maps than my 1:110,000 trekking map of the Manaslu area?

Currently I’m an expedition of one… ..so if anyone with suitable abilities is maybe interested in partnering with me over 22 days in November 2018, please get in touch. I currently intend using Sherpa support for the climbs.

 

In reply to Mark123: Paulo Grobel has done a lot of stuff in that area and had a fair bit of info on his old webpage on these peaks with excellent pics but unfortunately it seems to mostly have disappeared into the ether

Heres some of his original pics that have been copied and translated to another site

http://manaslucircuittrek.com/579/climbing-larkya-peak-an-nma-trekking-peak...

Heres a pic of upper section of Larkya (L) and Samdo Tower (R) from Tilje

http://www.paulogrobel.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/panbari_2017_1.jpg

I expect Damo will be along at some point with some more info

 

 

In reply to Mark123:

I have not climbed it but you will find a video of a climb here: youtube.com/watch?v=Zkzx_SzY-j0&

Just Google "Larkya Peak" and you will find various bits and pieces.

Try having a look at Google Earth.

Regards, Cliff.

 

In reply to Mark123:

Hi Mark,

stunning looking peak and region. Ive always wanted to go..

Could maybe be talked into this, but the nature of the climbing is also important to me. I guess you would say that I like routes more at the technically difficult end of the spectrum. 

I guess you would also want to know about my background, but there is an awful lot to say. Ive been at the game 35 years. 

My email is: john:@jpcuthbertconsulting.co.uk.

perhaps we could talk there..

john Cuthbert

 

In reply to L.A.:

Great! Just what I was looking for, many thanks!

In reply to CliffPowys:

Thanks Cliff, that's a very useful video. I see a dog made it quite high on the mountain! (~12 minutes) so hopefully I can get as far up as the dog at least!

I had tried googling earlier but didn't come up with anything so useful,  just adverts for trekking companies who didn't give any useful info on the route up the peaks. I also used Google Earth and managed to identify Larkya peak, but I'm still not sure what one is  Sano Larkya.

 

In reply to John Cuthbert:

Wondering why 22days? Should be possible in 10-12. Tho the extra days gives plenty of time for exploring. It's possible to drive quite far north of Arughat these days. Leonard (based in Kathmandu)

In reply to John Cuthbert:

Thanks John. You've a very impressive rock climbing cv, immensely better than mine. I'll send you an email late this evening. 

In reply to Mark123:

Mark, I really liked your film from the peak high in the Tsum valley, superb!  The area has been really affected by the 2015 earthquake, we (I work for the UK government Department for International Development) have funded some trail improvements, e.g.  youtube.com/watch?v=YydMTkeq6UQ&, to help ensure access to that valley and the Manaslu circuit.  

 

On Larkya peak. Did you see this: https://www.himalaya-info.org/larkya_la.htm   It seems to show a higher Larkya Peak, 6416m that is mentioned by the Nepal Mountaineering Association: http://www.nepalmountaineering.org/noticespage-13-NMA%20Peaks

In reply to Leonard Tedd:

Thanks Leonard, I'm pleased you liked my Tsum video. I enjoyed your video link too. We crossed on the new bridge that your video shows. It provides a vital lifeline. As you know it's an extremely important route for firstly local people, traders and also visitors.  I'm pleased it was commissioned and financed by DfID - great work - keep it up in Nepal! 

I was aware of various different names used for the peaks.  6416m is as you stated Larkya Peak according to NMA. However all the maps I've seen name the 6249m peak as Larkya Peak. Maybe this is right bearing in mind it adjoins the Larkya pass? Some people refer to 6249m as North Larkya Peak which is probably the best way to distinguish them. I think I'm going to aim to climb 6249m which is logistically easier. However the really useful photos in your link show 6416m  is a stunning peak and perhaps more tempting  - but also looks time consuming to get to. 

 

In reply to Leonard Tedd:

I'm going for 22 days not 10-12 days to maximise my time in the mountains, acclimatisation time, exploration time and contingencies time. 22 days will give me a far better chance of hopefully some summits.

That's great news the road now goes north of Arughat now (it was the trailhead when we went to Tsum). How much further north does the road now go?