UKC

Mallory-Porter Route, Aiguille du Midi

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 David Gainor 26 Feb 2019

Hey

Just wondered if anyone has any up to date info about this route? I've seen it's had a few ascents lately, and the Cham conditions update from a week ago says it was tracked. Has anyone been on it the last couple days? It would be particularly useful to know about the state of the upper snowfield regarding crevasses, as my climbing partner is ill and I may end up soloing it.

Cheers, David

 James FR 26 Feb 2019
In reply to David Gainor:

There's an ascent logged on camptocamp on last Saturday, which says it's tracked, generally good snow and with ice for the last 100m. Can't help you with the upper snowfield though.

 alexm198 26 Feb 2019
In reply to David Gainor:

David Goettler and Mikey Arno climbed it on 17 February (according to social media). Picture of the upper slopes here: https://www.instagram.com/p/Bt_EMxZBgOO/

You could shoot them a message on Instagram?

 JR 26 Feb 2019
In reply to David Gainor:

I counted over 10 people climbing it yesterday from the Midi lift, with an obvious well trodden trail all the way up. Some black ice on the traverse out at the top.  May all change with fresh snow possible later in the week of course.

OP David Gainor 26 Feb 2019
In reply to David Gainor:

Thanks guys, much appreciated.

 Tom Green 26 Feb 2019
In reply to David Gainor:

Climbed it on Wednesday. Would be a secure solo for all but the last fifty metres which is fairly hard ice, but reasonably well kicked about so if you’re fairly comfortable on your front points it wouldn’t be too bad. I was quite happy to pop a couple of screws in to be honest, but it wouldn’t have been too horrific without!

In other news, I’m ill too, so my partner is also at a loose end. Email me a phone number through here if you want to chat about combining!

 Tom Green 26 Feb 2019
In reply to David Gainor:

Oh, and to answer your original question... no crevasse worries at all. You don’t go near them as long as you traverse to the left of the exit slope before climbing up to join the Midi arete. 

OP David Gainor 26 Feb 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Cheers for the info Tom.

 davkeo 26 Feb 2019
In reply to David Gainor:

Good luck David hope ur enjoying that fat high pressure.

OP David Gainor 26 Feb 2019
In reply to davkeo:

Cheers Dave, it's been a great couple of weeks. Just need some more snow now! Hope you're well.

 John Kelly 26 Feb 2019
In reply to David Gainor:

Nice route, take it easy John

OP David Gainor 27 Feb 2019
In reply to John Kelly:

Cheers John, hope all is well in Langdale.

OP David Gainor 01 Mar 2019
In reply to David Gainor:

Thanks again for the info/advice guys. We had a great day climbing the Mallory-Porter route.

Cheers, David


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