In reply to Ian Parnell:
As I said on the original thread, I have climbed in the Himalaya, and had signed to climb Everest in 2003 (incidentally with Himex). I got HACE on Ama Dablam (private trip and if you think you'll get more help that way than with a commercial expedition my experience is different) and cancelled the trip.
However, I had made my mind up, that should we have encountered someone in difficulties, I was prepared to sacrifice my summit to help.
Nevertheless, we must all recognise that our morality changes - let's face it we probably all hold a moral that we shouldn't kill another human, but would be prepared to fight for our country in a war.
Also, morality in the mountains is such a subjective topic. If you are on the Cosmiques Arret and someone falls off, of course you'd help. But say, at the other end of the spectrum, by helping someone on Everest, you had a 50% chance of dying in the next 24 hours? Would you still help then? Would your family still want you to help?
Difficult questions for a difficult situation .....
I remember my first aid training where the first rule was to secure the situation, and to make sure your actions didn't put you or anybody else at risk.
I'm sure some people that walked on by were/are cold hearted bastards, but for others I'm sure it was a difficult / confusing situation. Personally, my summit and whole climbing career would be forever tainted if I had the slightest doubt about whether I could have helped.
P.S. I know Russell Brice (owner/leader) of Himex and is someone I would 100% trust with my life. I know in the past that he has led a number of rescue operations and doesn't take these things lightly or or in a merecenary manner. Thus, Inglis, shouldn't be judged too harshly if he took the advice of Russell.
Incidentally, Himex fixed all the rope that every team (commercial or not) used for the summit
http://himex.com/c_pub/en/news/2006/everest_dispatch_no_6.php