UKC

Noire South Ridge downgraded to an evening jog

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 Mr Lopez 04 Sep 2020

Just been done in 1:30 a few days ago... (and 14 seconds. Ha, ha) Unbelievable stuff https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/filip-babicz-races-up-aigui...

For those in the know, the article mentions a fixed abseil rope down Welzenbach. Anyone knows if that's the case of an in-situ abseil rope being there and the other points being manageable wthout abseiling?

 Rick Graham 04 Sep 2020
In reply to Mr Lopez:

Did it in 92 using the Piola topo , this was spot on from what I recall, a 25 m ab off the Welzenbach and 20 m ab off the Bich ( just checked the battered and taped up 1986 guide, water damaged from other adventures but not this one blessed with perfect weather ).

These two abseils are most  probably far  quicker than scouting for alternatives , unless you are trying for a free ascent?

On the descent also , a quick short ab or two were often easier than looking for alternatives.

 DaveHK 04 Sep 2020
In reply to Mr Lopez:

Bloody hell. We had some route finding issues on ascent and descent and ended up being about 20hrs hut to hut!

OP Mr Lopez 04 Sep 2020
In reply to Rick Graham:

Yes, that was my understanding. Just thought it was odd that he didn't need to do any abseils other than off Welzenbach, and for there to be an in-situ abseil rope. Wonder if it's the result of somebody's epic or maybe he pre-placed it, or if it's the new normal.

Old battered guidebooks are awesome. Pristine guidebooks are just plain suspicious

OP Mr Lopez 04 Sep 2020
In reply to DaveHK:

20hrs hut to hut is pretty good, specially considering the descent takes a good chunk of that. The guy here scouted it 5 times anyway, so basically cheated. Ha, ha

 Misha 04 Sep 2020
In reply to Mr Lopez:

Amazing indeed! There were no fixed ropes a few years back. Probably some epic story there. Downclimbing the rest is not what I would do but I’m a punter. 


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