In reply to simone.lombardi: Something is being lost in translation hereor we have a TROLL;
"I wouldn't call 4am breakfast a late start" Were you staying at the Torino hut or were you biviing. I'll have to assume that you were going from the Hut as you had an unplanned Bivi. A 4am breakfast for a face Route in the Alps WOULD be considered by many to be a Late Start.
"We saw you yesterday on the face, you started late and were slow" - If you climbed/struggled up the route on say Monday and the Guide climbed it on Tuesday then I suspect it's unlikely that the Guide would have seen you start at 06:30. He may have seen you later on when he was making his way to the Hut.
"unscheduled bivouac just below the summit with no equipment, no water, rockfall and -5 degrees" When did you top out? Rockfall from where? If you were just below the summit and topped out in daylight then it would be quite obvious that you would not get down that night. What little daylight you had left you could have found somewhere away from rockfall. -5 is a little fresh but hardly falls into the serious territory - did you have a temperature app on your iPhone?
"sleeping in a tent the day before" - No Guide that I know would force his Paying client to spend the night in a Tent when there is a hut close by, even a Scottish one!
"When, completely exhausted, we asked you if you could follow you across the crux section of the descent, you replied: "Have you not got a guide book?" and then overtook us" How the hell were you going to follow him and his client if they were not in front?
"on-sight ascent of its north face" - It would have to be one hell of a long rope to set up a Top Rope.
I suspect this is what actually happened - if anything happened at all;
You read Gaston Rebuffats "One Hundred Ques in the Alps" and saw the line about this being a good introduction to Alpine North Faces and you wants a "North Face" under you belt so that you could brag to your mates in the pub. You quest over to the Torino hut. Take no advice from the Guardian about what time you should awake and decide that 0400am is an Alpine start. You have a proper faff getting to the base of the route (probably got lost leaving the hut) and finally got to the base at about 0900.
The suns nicely out and you realise that you can't see the first insitu ice screw. Taking a big risk, because we know how sports climbers like a risk, you tie in and tackle the first pitch - iPhone at the ready for those all important photo's - helmet cam switched on. After 4m you try to place your first ice screw but soon realise that you havn't taken the end cap off or the threads protector. You have a bit of a laugh with your mate but sort it in the end.
As you have no concept of moving together over mildly technical terrain you pitch the entire face from bottom to top. You've used up soo much energy that by the time you get to the narrows you have drunk all your water and eaten all your food. Calf muscles screaming by now. You carry on because you haven't the skill set to realise the suns been on the face for hours now, you should have been off it by the time you started it and you have no idea how to abseil down. Probably go a bit of rockfall when climbing up the narrow bit.
Finally Top out at ~18:00?? Think that you still have the energy to get down that evening you set off for the descent route. Pulling up the photo of the topo from your iPhone is not that clear where to go. You manage to get yourselves lost, on a ridge.
After a few tears you realise that you are going to get benighted. Instead of finding a decent sheltered spot and 'digging in'. You sit down on a rock and probably cry somemore. You don't think to lie on your rope as an insulator or to tuck your feet into your pack as an added bit of insulation. You make it through the night, more by luck than judgement.
At 0700 you are met by a competent Guide and his client who have just come up the face in a respectable time. The Guide is keen to get his client down off the ridge and across the Glacier before the sun gets too high, so is moving fast. The Guide sums you up in 2mins as incompetent but alive and capable of getting down. You whinge at him that you have spent an unpleasant night on the mountain and he says it would have been better if you had had a tent. You ask him for no other help and he offers none.
Unbeknown to you he has assessed your equipment, your capabilities and your state of mind. He has realised that you should be capable of getting down this ridge if you have just come up the North face. To be sure, he lets you go first so that he can watch how you progress along the ridge to assess you climbing competence.
At the 'Crux' you are unsure where to go and faff about. the Guide asks if you have a guidebook. You both look sheepish and look at the ground. The Guide takes over and shows the way. With the hard bit done but time pressing, the Guide shots off so that he can get his Client safely across the Glacier.
This sound about right?