UKC

/ Piz Badile access and hut

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clipper2 on 19 May 2018

Hi

I was hoping to visit the Piz Badile this July with a group to climb the North Ridge/Cassin but we hear that the main hut is closed and the access to the ridge is still unsafe/blocked after the rockfall last year.  Anyone any info that can c;clarify/help.  Many thanks in advance.

James Mann - on 19 May 2018
In reply to clipper2:

I have no idea of the state of the le fayet access although it may be possible to walk up and then cross the river leading to the sasc fura path. An alternative would be to walk in to the Gianetti and then descend the N ridge or walk over the cold to bivvy on the col and then climb the n ridge or the Cassin the following day. This would however be pretty committing in the case of an accident or storm. Perhaps someone else has more local knowledge. 

 

James

Tom Last - on 19 May 2018
In reply to James Mann:

Thought I read that the bottom part of the path up from the Car park/river was also washed out James. I seem to recall the path/steps becomes pretty well defined early in doesn’t it? Plus there’s that huge chasm immediately upstream of it, so could be hard to rejoin it higher up? I could well be wrong though.

James Mann - on 19 May 2018
In reply to Tom Last:

I've no idea, just speculating really. I am sure that an email to swiss alpine club could elicit some better info. It will certainly be possible to access from the Italian side crossing cols to the Sasc Fura which wasn't damaged in any of that (cut off though). Does make it a knackering approach though and Sasc fury would, I am sure be closed. Hope your well Tom.

 

James

Rick Graham on 19 May 2018
In reply to James Mann:

Sasc Fura website states closed all summer.

As you say, going over the top is an ambitious and committing enterprise, all least it might keep the crowds away.

Stefan Jacobsen - on 21 May 2018
In reply to clipper2:

From Capanna Sasc Furä facebook:


The Bondasca Valley stays closed because of the big rockfall of August 2017. There is still danger. The access trails to the hut are also closed.


... the big rock fall from Pizzo Cengalo from August 23, 2017 which provoked a mud flow is the reason of the complete closure. Piz Badile is a safe mountain, but there are no access trails. Hopefully there can be built a new safe trail to our hut untill summer 2019.

clipper2 on 21 May 2018
In reply to clipper2:

Thanks for all the responses.  Confirms what we had heard and indeed heard back from the hut.....need a plan B !  

clipper2 on 21 May 2018
In reply to clipper2:

Thanks for all the responses.  Confirms what we had heard and indeed heard back from the hut.....need a plan B !  

Pero - on 21 May 2018
In reply to Stefan Jacobsen:

> From Capanna Sasc Furä facebook:

> The Bondasca Valley stays closed because of the big rockfall of August 2017. There is still danger. The access trails to the hut are also closed.

> ... the big rock fall from Pizzo Cengalo from August 23, 2017 which provoked a mud flow is the reason of the complete closure. Piz Badile is a safe mountain, but there are no access trails. Hopefully there can be built a new safe trail to our hut untill summer 2019.


The Germans (and Swiss) always get confused between "before/by" and "until".

msjhes2 - on 21 May 2018
In reply to clipper2:  oh no!  My whole objective for the summer was the Cassin, we have even booked a villa on Lake Coma for the family!  Can’t believe I only just noticed that the access is closed.

Can anyone recommend other routes in the area.

Mark

 

dominic o - on 21 May 2018
In reply to msjhes2:

You can have a great time in the Val di Mello, which isn't too far away. The two mega classics are Il Resviglio di Kundalini 

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2017/07/11/il-risveglio-di-kundalini/

and Luna Nascente

 https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2017/07/12/luna-nascente/

... which can be combined into one huge outing (or enjoyed separately as we did). 

In terms of accessing the North Face of Piz Badile, some friends of ours did go in and out from Val di Mello via the Gianetti hut last year, though they did find it a pretty exhausting trip. If you do make it, I'd highly recommend Another Day in Paradise 

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2017/07/15/another-day-in-paradise-ne-face-of-piz-badile/

 

msjhes2 - on 22 May 2018
In reply to dominic o:  Hey Dom, many thanks they look ace, although they might a be a grade too hard for us at the moment, unless the summer goes well.

thanks Mark J (Rucksack club member!)

 

Pero - on 22 May 2018
In reply to msjhes2:

There are big granite routes on the Italian side, accessible from various huts and valley bases.  They are in "Solo Granito", which is only available in Italian.  Lots to go at if the Cassin is within your capability.

dominic o - on 23 May 2018
In reply to msjhes2:

Hi Mark (didn't recognise your ukc handle ;-)  ) 

Just thought of another great day out in the area, at a slightly more amenable grade. The Spazzacaldeira above the Albigna reservoir in the Bregaglia gives numerous options and link ups of up 16 pitches. The "icing on the cake" is to top off your day with an ascent of the Fiamma - a 30m much photographed fantastic-looking blade of granite – allegedly the symbol of climbing in the Bregaglia. 

In more good news, the climbing starts about 10 minutes from the cable car! What's not to like? 

 

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2017/07/17/spazzacaldeira-albigna-dente-per-dente-ne-ridge-direct-via-nigg-and-the-fiamma/

Maarten2 on 29 May 2018
In reply to msjhes2:

The Solo Granito guidebook is also available in German - if that helps - in the shop in San Martino, in Val di Mello.  Acres and acres of granite climbing.  Lots of interesting route on the South face of the Badile, S ridge of Cengalo.  Rif Gianetti and Rif Allievi are good bases. 

msjhes2 - on 04 Jun 2018
In reply to clipper2:

OMG, just found out the Midi is also broken until some time in July!   Two climbing trips planned this year to tick off some long term objectives and both hit with infrastructure issues.

Rob Exile Ward on 04 Jun 2018
In reply to msjhes2:

You could always walk. Just sayin'...

L mongoosekiller on 11 Jun 2018
In reply to clipper2:

I have been in contact with a swiss guide as i cant get any of my mates to get over and do the north ridge. He suggested walking to the gianetti and then over the pass to the base of the ridge, the winter room at the Sasc Fura is open. but its a fair old pull, I've done the gianetti a couple of times and thats far enough. Might be easier to do the Via Normale or the Molteni and ab down?


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