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Quick Alpine 3000ers

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 danai 06 Jun 2020

Here’s a fun one!

I’m looking for clusters of 3000ers that can be submitted together in a day, anywhere in the Alps. They don’t need to be easy and the day doesn’t need to be short, but ideally 3-4 in one day at that location would be achievable.

Caveats: Ideally don’t require a walk in to a hut the day before, and lifts up to a starting point is a bonus.

 Alfrede 06 Jun 2020
In reply to danai:

Hi, me again. I am sure there are many possibilities for your personal project but the one that comes immediately to mind is the Stubai, though most higher peaks are glaciated which would be a problem your own. However the peaks around the lift at the head of the valley are quite close together.

 Dom Goodwin 06 Jun 2020
In reply to danai:

One of the best routes in the Alps is the Blumlisalp traverse. Not disimilar to the Rochefort ridge. Morgenhorn, Weisse Frau, Blumlisalphorn. AD, pitches of III, I think ice to about 50. Morgenhorn was an easy start to the day when I did it, but I imagine would get icier much earlier in the season these days.

 Dom Goodwin 06 Jun 2020
In reply to danai:

I think Austria is probably an ideal place to look for such routes, though I don't know it especially well. All the peaks are the sort of height you are looking for and there must be loads of possibilities to link them up. For instance, Mainzer Hohenweg, low in technicality, I think F- would take you over  a few tops. I'm sure there are plenty of more challenging options. I think Wildspitze can easily be traversed at the same time as some of its satellites.

 Dom Goodwin 06 Jun 2020
In reply to danai:

Another classic is the traverse of Piz Palu-Bellavista-Piz Zupo-Piz Argient-Crast Aguzza. A long day, but with escape possibilities, so not committing. I think we gave up at Piz Argient as the snow was getting soft.

By the way, my specific suggestions all involve using huts. To be honest, most of the classic routes of this nature need an early start at a high altitude. If you restrict yourself to stuff that can be approached by cablecars without using huts (and therefore a late start), you are excluding most of the best routes. So I'd recommend starting from huts, it will mean you can do far better routes!

OP danai 07 Jun 2020
In reply to Dom Goodwin:

Thanks Dom - I may message you on Facebook to squeeze any last bits of information from you and offer some specifics if that’s okay?

 PaulW 07 Jun 2020
In reply to Dom Goodwin:

+1 for the Palu suggestion. Would make a great day. We did Palu / Bellavista and that was enough.

 MG 07 Jun 2020
In reply to danai:

In Aosta there is the Gran Paradiso-Piccolo Paradiso-Becca di Montandani-Herbetet traverse.

the first is 4000m, obviously. Also a hut and a walk but an excellent ridge.

cb294 07 Jun 2020
In reply to danai:

The best 3000m enchainment I know is the circuit around Valle di Forni from Cevedale to Punta San Matteo, 20 km or so with plenty summits and never dropping below 3000m.

If you take the lift from Peio (Peio 3000) you can start with Monte Vioz (leaving out Cevedale and Palon de la Mare) and still get quite a few summits in.

CB

 WoVo 07 Jun 2020
In reply to danai:

In Austria/Ötztal region there are many fine possibilities.

As mentioned Wildspitze, Brochkogel traverse.

One fine but seldom done is also the border ridge to italy from Similaun, via Hintere Schwärze etc.

In reply to Dom Goodwin:

I thought this was much better than the Rochefort ridge, starting with the N face of the Blumlisalphorn.

 Dom Goodwin 10 Jun 2020
In reply to Full moon addict:

I think it's far more commonly done starting up the Morgenhorn than the other way round, which is logical, so that the descent is by the rocky NW ridge of the Blumlisalphorn - though there is still of course a fair bit of glacier to cross at the end of the day.

Starting with the N face of the Blumlisalphorn and finishing with the Morgenhorn definitely sounds like a great way to do it! I've always fancied that north face. 

The NW ridge of the Weisse Frau looks interesting too as well as its N face (though obviously not as part of a full traverse). Reaching the cross of Max Blau at the foot of this ridge was one of my first Alpine experiences - with my Dad, back in the day when we were totally clueless and just looked on a map and tried to go somewhere with no information and only hill walking equipment. We'd actually been trying to climb the Wilde Frau (another interesting smaller peak, very easy until a rock pitch to finish), got totally lost in the mist and had one ice axe between us and no rope! Ridiculously dangerous in retrospect, of course, on a reasonably serious wet glacier. We'd previously only climbed very small snow peaks like the Schilthorn and Schwarzhorn and thought we'd try something a bit higher. It was after this experience that we realised it was time to properly try to understand what we were doing, rather than making it up as we went along!

cb294 10 Jun 2020
In reply to WoVo:

Yes, the Marzellspitzen traverse is nice, and you are almost guaranteed to be alone!

CB


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