In reply to Offwidth:
Yes, read a few of her titles, should be a good read. I had the experience of being around Urubko and Moro as they prepared for their G2 ascent in 2011, it's a pretty interesting scene that's changed a lot over the last decade.
In some ways where the leading edge of big peaks is at, still a lot for the future. I'm waiting for 8000m winter north sides to take off.