UKC

Hi all, I'm looking for some advice regarding a trip to the Ecrins that I'm planning for mid-september this year. Am planning on going for a couple of weeks, we're fairly experienced with UK climbing/mountaineering but haven't done any alpine climbing before. We'd be looking to do lots of fairly easy big rock routes, slowly working up to some harder stuff. We also wouldlike to keep costs down if possible (one reason why the Ecrins over Chamonix).

Firstly, is mid-September a good time to go to the Ecrins weather-wise, and what kind of conditions can we expect the routes to be in? I've been told that the routes are generally solid/well bolted, but also read that the rock is sometimes not solid so am not sure if that only applies to the harder stuff?

Secondly, how do people usually get around in the Ecrins? We're hoping to have a car for some of the trip, and base ourselves probably near Ailefroide for the rest, or bivvy nearer to the routes. 

And finally, how much does one usually spend for a couple of weeks in the Ecrins these days? Have seen posts on here saying people spent a month there for a couple of hundred quid back in 2005, but I'm guessing it costs a bit more than that these days haha. 

Also if you have any route recommendations that would be great, I think I have a good list but would welcome any other advice you may have. 

This is my list of potential climbs in the area I've been looking at: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=6901

In reply to AndrewB121: Looks a decent list you’ve put together. A lot obviously depends on conditions, but last year a lot of the routes you have on the list were not possible later in the year, in particular the snow/glacier alpine routes. If you head to Ailefroide you can stay at the campsite, no need to book in advance. There is plenty of the multi-pitch bolted rock routes to do from the campsite and also the path for the Pelvoux and Sele huts starts there. If snow and glacier conditions are crap there are enough Alpine rock routes on your list to keep you busy. It’s a good time to go as it’s quiet and also the weather is often more settled. 
Worth checking when the huts close.

If the weather completely craps out just drive to Verdon, it’s only 3 hours away.

In reply to AndrewB121:

A few comments:

You said rock routes but have listed quite a few mixed.  The Meija for example has a steep ice traverse pitch that is quite intimidating if you're just a rock rat.

Some of those are now in very different state to how they were even just a decade ago.  For example, the Pelvoux glacier shrinkage has made the traverse a very much more serious challenge.

September is changeover month for the weather - can be great but you might find the weather shuts you down and leaves loose snow on the routes.

Ailefroide gives you many options.

In reply to AndrewB121:

Just bear in mind that the rock quality on a great many mixed lines in the Ecrins make Chamonix choss look solid.

Additionally, so great is glacial erosion in a typical summer that many glacier-access classic mountain rock lines prove near impossible to overcome the monster rimaye by September.

That said, The Ecrins, and particularly the Brianconnais, is a glorious region full of wonder and delight, with a huge diversity of high quality rock styles and rock types across multiple valleys and multiple massifs. Definitely a fabulous alternative to Cham.

JC