UKC Forums - The Royal Traverse

The Royal Traverse

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robthered 02 Mar 2014

Having being inspired by Phillipe Batoux's description of The Royal Traverse (Dômes de Miage, Aiguille de Bionnassay and Mont Blanc), I was wondering if anyone a) had done it in its entirety and b) knows if it is in a guide book as a route in itself? Obviously one could piece it together from various descriptions of components, but as a whole would be handy. Was mainly interested in details of timing/itinerary; other tips gladly received.

Cheers

Rob

jon 02 Mar 2014

In reply to robthered:

Well, it's sort of how I first did MB except that we missed out the Dômes de Miages bit by approaching the Durier refuge from the Italian side. Yes, I know that's not what you asked, but the meat of the route is the Bionnassay > MB > (I'm guessing he describes it finishing at the Aiguille du Midi?). We were relatively inexperienced alpinists in 1975 but we easily got to MB via the Bionnassay traverse and then down via the Gonella refuge and all the way on foot to our campsite in the lower part of the Val Veny, by dark. Going on this sort of timing, getting down to the Midi shouldn't be a problem - and would be a lot easier on the feet!
Fabulous!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=137604
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=136344

OwenM 02 Mar 2014

In reply to robthered:
Mont Blanc via three monts route, down the Bosses ridge and across Domes de Miage, then went up Aiguille De Bionnassay, retraced our steps to the Col de Bionnassay and dropped down to the Miage glacier and all the way to the road. Left the Cosmiques hut at 01.00, got to the road at about 19.00 totally knackered. That was in 1983, I'm not sure that way down is recommended these days. I think the glacier has changed quite a lot over the years.

P.S. Didn't know it had a name, but it's in Gaston Rebuffat's book.

Post edited at 20:50

jon 02 Mar 2014

In reply to OwenM:

In that order? Or did you mean the Dôme du Goûter then the Bionnassay?

lostcat 02 Mar 2014

In reply to robthered:

It is in 'Mont Blanc 4808m, 5 routes to the summit'.By Francois Damilano. A written description with lots of photographs showing the various stages of the route.

OwenM 02 Mar 2014

In reply to jon:

> In that order? Or did you mean the Dôme du Goûter then the Bionnassay?

Yes Dome du Gouter - Bionnassay. getting my peaks mixed up.

OP robthered 03 Mar 2014

Great - thanks all. And for the photos - as if I needed any more encouragement!

The route is in Batoux's 'coffee table guide' to the Massif, and suggested descent is via the normal route, 3 MBs traverse to the Midi. Will check out the '5 routes' book too.

Fingers crossed for the weather this year...