UKC

I haven't seen any mention of his death on here and thought this obituary was worthy of our attention.

https://www.theguardian.com/world/2018/nov/07/tony-streather-obituary

It sounds like he was a marvellous character, and hard as nails too. He started climbing by accident -he was a non-climbing aide-de-camp who was attached to a Norwegian expedition to climb Tirich Mir as transport officer. He decided it was his duty to accompany them to the summit, which he did wearing his pyjamas under his battle dress for warmth!

I seem to recall a documentary/reconstruction of the disastrous Haramosh expedition mentioned in the obituary, maybe from the 70s, but I can't find any mention of this on the web so far. Does anyone remember it? 

In reply to Bob Kemp:

Thanks for posting, very interesting and a typically excellent obit by Ed Douglas. 

In reply to Bob Kemp: Dont remember the documentary but 'The Last Blue Mountain' by Ralph Barker is one of the most extraordinary mountaineering books written, it tells the unbelievably unlucky story of that Haramosh trip Really recommended

 

In reply to Bob Kemp:

That expedition was in 1957. There's an excellent book about the expedition, "The Last Blue Mountain" (I read it many years ago), you can Google that (and "Haramosh" and "Tony Streather") for more information.

In reply to Bob Kemp:

Thanks for posting that, I had forgotten that he was a  member of the 1953 American K2 expedition - the only non American ?

In reply to Doug:

Indeed, the only non-American on the expedition, and initially only in place as transport and logistics officer, he soon proved his worth as a member of the climbing team. His role in the expedition is described fondly in Houston and Bates's 'K2 - the savage mountain'. 

In reply to Harry Jarvis:

What about Colonel M Ata-Ullah who appears to have been a bona fide member rather than say a liaison officer. 

In reply to Pedro50:

That's a very fair point, and I do apologise for the oversight. In my defence, I could try to bluster my way through by saying that Streather was invited by Houston, whereas Ata-Ullah was appointed by the Pakistan government, and I think I'm right in saying he didn't climb beyond Base Camp. But you are right, and he was a valued member of the expedition.  

In reply to Harry Jarvis:

I'm sure you are right that he was a political appointment as was common. The profile at the end of K2 The Savage Mountain (by his daughter)  states that he reached camp 3 although I can't find confirmation of that in the text (and there were a lot of camps!)

In reply to leon 1:

I must have been thinking of the book. And thinking about an old documentary about Tom Patey and a rescue on (maybe) An Teallach that had a very blue look. Or have I imagined that as well?

In reply to Bob Kemp: Duel on An Teallach ?  Not sure Tom Patey was involved in that or are we all just imagining everything ? ????

Anyway the last blue mountain is a superb book 

In reply to Bob Kemp:

Here's a description of the Haramosh tragedy (it's part of an article about Streather) in "Footless Crow":

http://footlesscrow.blogspot.com/2013/11/army-dreamer-portrait-of-tony-stre...

In reply to leon 1:

He was involved in the rescue I believe, but I think his (dramatised) role in the film was quite peripheral. 

We need an 'Obscure old climbing documentaries' thread...

In reply to profitofdoom:

Cheers.

In reply to Bob Kemp:

  I remember the documentary reconstruction. I’m guessing it was shown on the BBC around 1973? 

  He is possibly the most undersung of British climbers