UKC

Has anyone on here climbed this, How hard is the crux section? is the rock solid or lots of loose? Looking at possible easy solo climbs in the area?

Thanks in Advance

Tommy

In reply to Tommy Harris:

I’ve down soloed it a few times after completing other routes. The rock is mostly good, the hardest sections are about V Diff. There’s a lot of fixed ab points and belays if you want to ab the trickier bits.

In reply to dan gibson:

Thanks for info Dan, I am in the area for a while with the Mrs on a chilled walking trip but thought this could be an option when she fancies a rest day, Was looking to solo it then possibly just solo/ab back down the route

In reply to Tommy Harris:

The main difficulites are dealing with loose rock and route finding. I'd say it's not the most fun of routes really, I'd only do it if there is really no other option for you.

In reply to Tommy Harris:which of the three are you asking about? If you mean the Grande it is the standard way down. 

In reply to beardy mike:

Thanks for the info, Would you recommend any other possible routes in the area.. Keeping in mind I will be soloing.. anything up to Vdiff

In reply to jcw:

The normal route up Cima Grande south face, I can imagine its the way down due to it being the easiest, however from research and a few videos people are climbing it.. I'm just looking at options for an easy solo I could do in the area.

In reply to Tommy Harris:

My girl and I have been up and down this normal route on the Grande solo several times.  It's nice, and a spectacular top.  Not sure where the crux is.  We would go up all completely solo, but there is a short exposed slabby downclimb somewhere up about 2/3 of the way up or so (on the ridge just above a corner thing) -- you might use a rope for descending this as I can't remember the holds being massive there.  Also, many people abseil down the chimney/corner below this.  The climbing is all about the same grade as anything on Tower Ridge on the Ben.  I really like it. Pity the road and parking tolls are so high.

This Grande normal route is much more solid and recommended compare to the nearby normal on Cima West which has way more hard packed loose surface scree over scary drops.  Although less people usually on that one.

The Mauro Bernardi guidebooks available everywhere over there are great and have lots of climbs like this in them.

In reply to BruceM:

Thankyou.. this is great info, I plan on taking a rope with me to ab back down the tougher sections..  I will search out for the guidebook as well has only currently have the rockfax guide for the area.

In reply to BruceM:

? with lots of loose rock ?

In reply to kenr:

Bernardi's use of language is somewhat distinctive.  From my limited experience when he says rock is "ottima" (Eng. translation "excellent") it's pretty good.  If "buona" (Eng. translation "good"), it's shite.  If "discreta" (Eng. translation "OK") it's the stuff of recurring nightmares.

In reply to dgbryan:

I guess it depends on whether you go thinking as a mountaineer, or a "climber".  Many of these are mountaineering routes.

In reply to BruceM:

Indeed.  I generally leave the car thinking I'm a mountaineer & get half way up the first pitch to realise I used to be a climber.

In reply to dgbryan:

Thanks -- confirms what I'd heard from another very experienced local climber.

In reply to dgbryan:

😅, yes and to clean means a sea of choss..