UKC

Hi,

been thinking about heading to the Himalayas independently (no guides, porters, or trekking agency) with a light pack, sleeping in lodges, and trying to climb some 6000m+ trekking peaks but can't make sense of the formalities, especially concerning Nepal. 

In Nepal, I'd be interested in heading to the Khumbu region and hiking and running around for about three weeks, and then, depending on the conditions, hopefully attempting fast ascents from the nearest lodge of some trekking peaks. (I have plenty experience solo running up moderately high peaks.) However, the NMA webpage implies that this is impossible and that you'd need a sirdar, an agency, etc. to do even trekking peaks. However, many strong mountain runners are running up and down the peaks by themselves, so is it just that they forego the formalities and fees? I don't assume there are authorities on the trekking peaks checking up on who's climbing, or what's the situation out there?

Browsing the forums here on UKC I also came across some solid advice on the Ladakh region, and there it seems that peaks like Stok Kangri are very cheap and hassle free?

Any advice anyone has is much appreciated!

Cheers!

With regards to admin in Nepal, they are all over it, you are not even going to get near the Khumbu without a national park permit as well as a TIMM permit ( Timms is a tracking system for trekkers, you are  logged in and out at official checkpoints and supposedly at some point if you went in and did not come out you are classed as missing)

On a mountain any Nepali sadar or sherpa can request you show your permit to climb the peak, if they catch you without one they get a nice reward fee from the authorities, so yes there are lots of eyes to spot you.

Loads of peaks are not classified as requiring a permit mostly the ones on the Everest base camp trek or close by. Up above Gokyo there are some crackers that open without permits.

You have to understand that the officials do not want western tourists to get killed as it is very bad for business. To them it is inconceivable that anyone without a sherpa can climb the higher peaks.

I did a 4 week self supported trek in the Khumbu in   2012 and had a great time not doing any peak above 5600 meters. Once you start looking at 6000 meter peaks you are going to have to scale up your kit a lot. There may be crevasse, technical climbing sections, all on your own.

Have you been to 6000 meters before, no matter how fit you are you are going to find it a whole different world up there, I am only a punter and been to 6500 meters and 6000 meters on a handful of peaks very hard to convey to someone who has not how hard it all is.

My advice is A. go to Nepal it's amazing, go into a agency and talk with them what you want to do, they will fit you up with what you need if you are adamant you want to go above 6000 meters.

B go and do your own thing and stay away from the higher peaks.

Thanks for the advice! Yep, I have no issue paying for trekking permits and even eventually a peak fee since that's mandatory but would like to move independently and not as part of a group. Good idea to talk to an agency! I'll do that. Will also research the Ladakh area if there's less bureaucracy there.

Try South America! No permits, almost no red tape and much easier access (except Aconcagua). 

Thanks but I really want to go to the Himalayas Also, my understanding is that specifically for what I want to do, South America is not as suitable.

It needn't be a large group. On my trip we had a sirdar, a climbing porter and a couple of cooks.  The sirdar and porter were hugely experienced mountaineers and it was great to talk to them.  A lot of my enjoyment from the trip came from being in their company and gaining an insight into the country from them, as well as hearing about their climbing adventure.  I think you'd miss out on a lot if you were to go solo and end up meeting only other tourists in the lodges.

"Trekking peaks" only refers to the category of permit you need to climb them, it does not imply they are technically easy or involve only safe terrain.  As Sheffieldchris said, the authorities want to avoid tourists getting killed and I suspect they would be very unhappy about solo ascents.  They also, very understandably, want to ensure employment for the locals.

Thanks, I'm sure it can be a wonderful experience trekking with a small group but it's not what I would like to do on this trip. And, me spending three weeks in the area sleeping and eating in lodges would bring money to the area, and the peak fee I'd pay would bring money to the country in general.

I've sent inquiries to trekking agencies but haven't so far received positive answers. I suppose I next have to try to ask directly from the people who are moving independently on the trekking peaks how they go about it "legally". I have no issue paying for trekking permits and even the peak fee, but have started to feel quite negative about the Khumbu region because having "eyes on me" and the locals being unhappy about me being there kinda makes me feel like a criminal, and that's not the experience I'm looking for in the mountains.

I'll keep looking at ways how to do this, and if it looks like too much hassle, my recent reading on trekking in the Indian Himalayas makes me think that that would be a cheap and hassle free option. But, cheers for the good info!

Nepal trekking and mountaineering is very much based around organised commercial groups now, particularly in the Khumbu - it can be quite affronting to someone used to more independent and solo mountain travel. It's more economically efficient and profitable for the locals that way. They don't think you're a criminal, they think you're a tight-ass weirdo who should pay them to make it easier for yourself. And it's their country, their backyard, their rules. The only benefit in the Khumbu for what you want is the presence of lodges up high, but they are a mixed blessing. They are very expensive now in the Khumbu and the owners often prefer groups, so ignore or reject solo weirdos.

You might be better off going to the Manang area on the north side of Annapurna, or even Langtang. You also need to allow plenty of gradual acclimatisation before you'll be running anywhere above 5000m. Three weeks is barely enough.

I think you may find Ladakh much more suitable a place to 'run' up relatively high peaks. You can go on remote treks there and go up pretty much anything. Stok Kangri is boring and crowded but good for acclimatisation and a cheap permit at only $25 bought in Leh. But there are very few lodges once out of Leh, Lamayaru etc.

Great, thanks for the solid advice! And yes, "running" is a very relative term, ha