/ Unclimbed peaks in the Andes

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chick mackay - on 04 Jan 2013
Any good info on where to find out about unclimbed peaks in the Andes?
Damo on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to chick mackay:

Big place, the Andes...

Lots of unclimbed wet things way down in the Sarmiento or Darwin Range (Chile).
Nothing in the Cordillera Blanca or Huayhuash (Peru).
Maybe some minor things in the Real or Apolobamba (Bolivia)
A few high and dry bumps in the Atacama (Arg).
Depends what you're after, and what time of year.

Bloke on here, his name is Andes, andes company name is Andes. Quite 'andy..
Andes site is at

Captain Gear - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to chick mackay:


I'm no Peruvian expert, but I know of some unclimbed peaks in the Andes.

We went to the Cordillera Carabaya in 2011. This is a small mountain range in S Peru. Although most of the major summits there have been climbed, there are still a few unclimbed summits. Most of the mountains have only been climbed once or twice by their easiest route, so there are plenty of new routes to go at.

The Carabaya is accessed from Macusani, a small town about a half a days drive north of Puno. It is further hours drive from the town to the nearest road to the mountains and from there a 3 hour walk up an idyllic valley to a flat grassy base camp. The weather is generally very stable and the temperatures are only a little bit colder than the Alps in summer. The mountains are around the 5000m+ mark.

It isn't a place to go if you looking for cutting edge alpine ascents, but is a great place to go if you are into exploration and fancy a bit of an adventure. I'd say it would be ideal for the young climber who had done a few big routes in the Alps and wanted to go somewhere more adventurous.

Be warmed though once you get there you are on your own. We went as two and it felt pretty committing. If I was going again I'd consider going as a team or 4 or 6. There is plenty to go at in the area and a team of 6 could get lots done over a three week period.

Here is a video that my partner made of the new route we did:

Drop me a PM if you want to know more. I've got a couple of expedition reports I can email you.


chick mackay - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to Captain Gear: Hi Tom, video looks good - probably a bit harder route than what we would be looking at doing in that sort of remote environment. Thanks for the info
Captain Gear - on 04 Jan 2013
In reply to chick mackay:

You're welcome. There are plenty of other easier objectives to go at there.

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