UKC

/ Wanted: Big wall equipment

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Andy Taylor - on 10 Mar 2018 - user since 16/May/06

After quite a lot of kit for trip to Yosemite. Etriers, haul bags etc. I have a full rack, just need the specifics for aid climbing 

Kemics - on 10 Mar 2018
In reply to Andy Taylor:

I have some old school etriers that are not good. Possible of interest if you want to do some training in the UK but for actually being on the wall the Yates big wall ladders are the only choice - https://www.needlesports.com/48625/products/yates-big-wall-ladder-black.aspx I would strongly recommend them. For leading they are pretty much mandatory. IMO 

Andy Taylor - on 11 Mar 2018
In reply to Kemics:

Thanks for the advice- much appreciated. 

artif on 11 Mar 2018
In reply to Andy Taylor:

Personally I much prefer Russian style aiders. 

Kemics - on 13 Mar 2018
In reply to Andy Taylor:

I learnt the hard way. I took some BD etriers - https://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_GB/big-wall-climbing/etrier-BD390040_cfg.html which are all soft webbing. They are fine for jugging when you keep your feet in the steps but incredibly slow when leading. The valley often forms a wind tunnel and I would spend minutes hanging on a piece, trying to catch my etrier which would be flaying madly in the wind, then holding the step open to get my foot in. Utter cluster f*ck. Whereas the spreader bar on the Yates aiders holds the steps open so the etrier doesnt fold up in the wind. In the end we swapped our ladders back and forth so the second had the BD and leader had yates. 

 

... i can list another 20 or so lessons learnt from doing it wrong  

 

(always more screw gates) 

Andy Taylor - on 13 Mar 2018
In reply to Kemics:

Thanks - this is really useful. Any tips greatly appreciated!

penyolewen - on 13 Mar 2018
In reply to Andy Taylor:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/premier_posts/gear_clear_out-680129?v=1#x8742551

This guy is selling a load of aid gear. May be worth a look!


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