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30m Rope Recommendations

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 ScottTalbot 28 Jul 2019

Can anyone recommend an MLT approved 30m Rope? I'm looking for the lightest rope I can get away with, although price is also a consideration. 

As well as using the rope and for MLT, it will also be used for more technical scrambling.

Cheers

 airborne 30 Jul 2019
In reply to ScottTalbot:

Dunno about 'MLT approved' but there are 30m versions of Petzl's Volta 9.2mm https://www.petzl.com/GB/en/Sport/Ropes/VOLTA-9-2-mm and Volta Guide 9.0mm https://www.petzl.com/GB/en/Sport/Ropes/VOLTA-GUIDE-9-0-mm

1
 Alex Riley 30 Jul 2019
In reply to airborne:

I'm assuming mlt= mountain leader training.

Lots of options if you search for walking rope or confidence rope on Google. Worth bearing in mind that they might not be rated appropriately for more adventurous scrambling. Most people I know and work with just use older climbing ropes chopped to length.

OP ScottTalbot 30 Jul 2019
In reply to Alex Riley:

> I'm assuming mlt= mountain leader training.

> Lots of options if you search for walking rope or confidence rope on Google. Worth bearing in mind that they might not be rated appropriately for more adventurous scrambling. Most people I know and work with just use older climbing ropes chopped to length.

Yeah, I have a cut down climbing rope, which I used to use for indoor walls, but it's pretty old now and I doubt an instructor would be too happy with it.

I found an 8mm confidence rope, but that one stated that it wasn't MLT approved, so no good.

Looking at the Volta ropes above, I think they'd work. I just need to compare weights and see if the higher price can be justified by the weight saving.

 Alex Riley 30 Jul 2019
In reply to ScottTalbot:

If you don't mind me asking why the need for weight saving?

 galpinos 30 Jul 2019
In reply to ScottTalbot:

Have you been on your ML course? If not, they will probably have a variety of thickness of ropes to use so you can make the decision of an appropriate thickness. Thicker ropes last longer and are easier to belay with than thin ropes, there is a balance to be struck with weight......

 Andysomething 30 Jul 2019
In reply to ScottTalbot:

I bought one of these, I liked it so I bought another, one for inside one for out.  They handle very nicely, I assume they are MLT approved? only £36.60 excellent value

https://www.needlesports.com/52552/products/mammut-gym-rope-30m.aspx

 Philip 30 Jul 2019
In reply to Andysomething:

From that link they appear to sell a random mix of size and treatment as this single "gym grade". Meaning you could get a non-treated rope. Not my choice for a rope that lives in your rucksack just in case.

OP ScottTalbot 30 Jul 2019
In reply to Alex Riley:

I'm always looking to save weight where I can, as I usually have a ton of camera gear to lug about, as well as my hiking/camping gear.

 Dark-Cloud 30 Jul 2019
In reply to ScottTalbot:

Just get 30M of 8-9mm from wherever is cheapest, I think Needlesports take a 60M Beal iceline or similar and chop it and sell in 30M lengths.

Im not sure there is such a thing as ML approved rope, where are you getting that info ?

Post edited at 19:17
 John1458 30 Jul 2019
In reply to ScottTalbot:

I bought the 40m version of Decathlon's Rando Dry for scrambling, no idea if it's mlt approved but it's light (7.5mm), dry treated and cheap at only £34.99 for 30m! 

 Mark Stevenson 30 Jul 2019
In reply to ScottTalbot:

Mountain Training (and by extension their qualification providers) make a deliberate point of never getting involved in specifically recommending or certifying equipment.

Ropes are certified to EU minimum standards with additional standards published by the UIAA.

However, the vast majority of professional Mountaineering Instructors and Mountain Guides would only consider a single rated rope as being sufficient for professional planned use on graded scrambles in the UK. [For emergency use they might consider a lighter rope only meeting the much less rigorous half rope or twin rope standards.]

Single rated ropes are available in a variety of weights and diameters. In general, the lighter the rope the harder it is to meet the standard, therefore the more expensive it will be. In addition, the UIAA has a "dry" standard for water repellent treatments. It is a demanding standard but ropes meeting it will perform much better in the rain or wet snow conditions but are substantially more expensive. In some cases "UIAA dry" ropes are almost twice the price of untreated ropes. The very thinnest ropes generally come with the dry treatment as standard.

The more expensive ropes tend to offer much better handling. On the other hand, scrambling can be relatively hard on ropes and it is equally easy to completely trash a rope on sharp or rough rock regardless of how expensive it is. 

You should be able to buy a basic 10mm single rope for £30-40 which should be adequate for most dry weather scrambling.

Equally, if you want one of the lightest dry treated single ropes available you will probably end up paying £80-£100 for something in the range of 8.5mm to 9.1mm.

Unfortunately, despite all that, it is also very debatable whether 30 metres is actually the 'best' length. Lots of people will argue strongly in favour of something slightly longer (35m or 40m) for more technical scrambles. Equally, I know lots of people who carry less than 30m when it is just for emergency use. 

Anyway, hope that helps. 

 OliverR17 30 Jul 2019
In reply to ScottTalbot:

Have you done your training yet? I'd suggest that this would be a point of discussion during the training course, weighing up useful lengths vs weight vs safety and other such things. I honestly wouldn't buy with your MLT in mind. Centres like Plas y Brenin use their own ropes, and if you're working for a centre when qualified then you'd probably be using what they provide (where I've worked provides a 25m half rope for example). To consolidate/practise, any rope will do because you can practise anywhere. If you're freelancing after assessment, then it's what works for you and inspires confidence in clients (maybe not something knackered looking!).

In terms of buying rope for scrambling, Mark gives some good advice about this. 

OP ScottTalbot 31 Jul 2019
In reply to ScottTalbot:

Thanks all..

I haven't done my training yet, but a 30m rope was on the advised, but not required kitlist. I want it more for taking inexperienced mates scrambling, if I'm honest. I've never carried a rope for myself, although it probably would be good practice..

I was Looking at an Edelrid 8mm confidence rope, which stated that it was not MLT approved, which is what had me questioning what is/isn't acceptable. None of the other ropes I've looked at mention it either way, but I'm assuming anything that is good enough for sport climbing, should be good enough for my needs.

A dry rope is a definite! Although I won't be intentionally using it in the wet, this is Britain!  😁

 Dark-Cloud 31 Jul 2019
In reply to ScottTalbot:

I would love to know where you are seeing sites declare that ropes are not ML approved, what site are you looking at ?

Dry treatment is great but if its just for summer and a bit of wet here and there then you can save some cash for going with normal untreated.

In reply to ScottTalbot:

I think you're actually in the market for two ropes.

1) a confidence rope for unplanned use, when working as a Mountain Leader. This doesn't need to be a single rated rope. It can be 30 metres of half or twin rope, or indeed a purpose designed confidence ropes. I would also suggest that it doesn't need to be dry treated as it is will spend most of its life in the bottom of your bag - (keep it in a lightweight dry bag). 

Whilst you could opt for a rope that is as thin as possible (it will be lighter and less bulkly). It is worth considering that thicker ropes are much easier to handle. That said wearing leather gloves when handling ropes improves your grip substantially. 

2) a shortish (35m-40m) single rated rope for days out scrambling, with friends, where you plan on using the rope.

A short single rope is a really useful bit of kit, that every climber should own, it can be used for everything from Gritstone cragging, long mountain routes, turbo scrambles like the Cuillin Ridge, and even classic alpine routes like the Hornli Ridge. 

I would probably opt for a mid diametre rope (9.4-9.8mm) for this job, as it will last much longer, and is less likely to get damaged direct belaying. 

On this rope dry treatment is also a good idea, as it will prolong the life of the rope.

HTH

OP ScottTalbot 31 Jul 2019
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

Funnily enough, the Cuillin Ridge is on my radar for next year. Do you feel that 30m would be slightly too short?

I was hoping for one rope to do both jobs, but you are probably right. It does seem like overkill to lug a 30/40m 10mm rope around and not use it.

In reply to ScottTalbot:

> Funnily enough, the Cuillin Ridge is on my radar for next year. Do you feel that 30m would be slightly too short?

You need 38m of rope for the abseil from the Inaccessible Pinnacle. 

> I was hoping for one rope to do both jobs, but you are probably right. It does seem like overkill to lug a 30/40m 10mm rope around and not use it.

I think you are wanting two different ropes, for two almost totally different jobs.

OP ScottTalbot 31 Jul 2019
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

> You need 38m of rope for the abseil from the Inaccessible Pinnacle. 

Good to know, thanks!

 ScraggyGoat 31 Jul 2019

A thin rope is a wonderful thing on you back to carry, I have 30m of 7.5mm of super dry half-rated.  However it does focus the mind in use, needing thought and care.  Firstly can you hold a fall on a single strand that thin; check your belay device, consider using two krabs and gloves to improve holding power.  Secondly seeing it running over an edge, any edge, doesn't require much imagination what could happen.  Keeping things short, careful rerouting runners can help.  Its an insurance policy, not a work horse. Or a bit cheeky, accepting its limitations and associated risks. I would only take it on the cullin if I was not expecting to use it much. If you are going to solo the whole ridge, and bank on piggy back on somebody elses rope abbing off the Inn Pinn,  and want a rope for just in case, it would be fine. 

Otherwise you are really looking at two ropes as mentioned above, or accepting the weight of a 9.5 - 10mm 40m.

Post edited at 16:07
OP ScottTalbot 04 Aug 2019
In reply to ScraggyGoat:

I briefly considered down climbing Inn Pinn and not bothering with the rope at all, but decided that was too reckless, even for me! Besides, if it's busy, it could very quickly become a headache for all involved haha!


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