UKC

My local climbing wall has recently stopped stocking 5.10 shoes due to apparent decline with the brands quality since the adidas take over and issues with dealing with the brand themselves. Its a shame because I really liked my now worn through anasazi vcs. Has anyone had issues with 5.10 quality since the take over? And if so, can anyone reccomend a good shoe from another brand similar to the anasazi? I know all shoes fit different feet etc but just looking for a few suggestions. Cheers! - Will 

In reply to Will Hempstead:

Tenaya masai feel very similar to pinks

In reply to Will Hempstead:

Hi Will, it’s worth checking out Unparallel which are now being distributed by Dark Ventures in the UK. You’ll be able to find something extremely similar to an Anasazi: https://dark-ventures.co.uk/unparallel-shoes

In reply to Will Hempstead:

I have torn a pink down the side (I've had 2 pairs in the same size previously, so not a sizing issue), somehow, last year, 2 months after buying it. I did get a replacement however, so can't fault customer service.

You're in luck. Unparallel Climbing is a new climbing shoe company formed by ex-5.10 members, making practically the same shoes. I haven't tried them on (but did see them in the shop), but what I've heard is that many of the non-sponsored athletes have switched to these. I'm hopeful that they'll be a drop-in replacement.

In reply to Will Hempstead:

I have worn 5.10 for years and have noticed that while the size accuracy has improved (I haven't had to try on 3 pairs of the same size to get a fit, unlike with the now discontinued Galileo) the quality control seems to have got more hit and miss in their rock shoes: I have had 3 or 4 pairs split their linings which looked to be due to poor material alignment prior to stitching and I have just had a pair where the toe box has disintegrated from the inside. 

They have also had some stock issues recently which I was told were down to a large number of pairs of shoes being made with the wrong rubber and subsequently being destroyed. 

In reply to Will Hempstead:

Got worse still ? They always were prone to fall to bits.

In reply to Will Hempstead:that was my impression as well - I tried a few pairs years ago and five-tennies in particular were rubbish

In reply to Will Hempstead:

I am particularly disappointed with the current 5.10 guide tennie.

I had a canvas pair first time round, loved them so much even had them resoled.

When they finally fell to bits, got a new pair (now addidas) same size, and these are a bit tight, the laces keep coming undone ( even when double knotted) and the tongue keeps going off to one side, so the laces dig into my foot.

I won't be getting another pair!

In reply to Will Hempstead:

Adidas bought 5.10 eight years ago!! Are you sure you can blame recent quality issues on a change that occurred back in 2011?

I do happen to know that the Adidas group of brands has experienced some supply chain difficulties in the last 12 months however, but I understood the hold-ups mostly affected training shoe sales in the US. Those are currently being resolved under a relatively new CEO who is improving efficiencies.

In reply to Will Hempstead:

I recently bought a new pair of Blancos before they all went. I had the old velcros the pinks and two pairs of the verdes in 8.5 which is a size below my street size. The Blancos on the other hand are a 9.5 and they still feel a bit tight. They did wear in a little after just one use which was surprising. I can't say I have noticed any decline in quality recently, availability maybe but not quality.

In reply to Nick Brown - UKC:

Do you happen to know which model most closely resembles the Anasazi VCS? From the pictures the Uprise VCS (dark grey) looks similar.

In reply to Will Hempstead:

Quite off point that you’re Trying to discuss if quality has changed due to a brand take over, and people reply just plying other brands of shoe with no real relation to your topic. 

I really like 5.10 access trainers and wear them every day, and have also been interested to know if there was any change in quality over the last decade. From what I read though Adidas kept the same team just took over the company by name and ownership. 

In reply to bpmclimb:

I agree it looks like the Uprise VCS. I bought the Sirius Lace which is quite like the old Dragons before they started making them softer. The sizing was slightly different - I used to be an 8.5 in Dragons but I'm an 8 in these. It's probably worth trying them on. They are almost identical shoes but there may be some subtle changes.

In reply to Donotello:

He asked for recommendations of shoes that were most similar to Anasazis.

In reply to Nick Brown - UKC:

Are these Unparalleled shoes in any shops or just online?

In reply to vancian:

I'm not sure I'm afraid. I'm sure they'll be in shops soon, the best thing to do would be to drop them an email and see if there's anywhere near you that has them in stock.

In reply to BnB:

My understanding is that addidas have recently moved production from the original factory in the US to another factory and this is what's causing the supply issues. Unparallel are the chaps at the old factory who have started up production under a different name. Obviously they've been making climbing shoes for a long time so have been able to jump in with a good line up of shoes straight off the bat.

In reply to SenzuBean:

A few sponsored athletes have also left. E.g. Dave mason has moved to unparallel, Jimmy Webb has gone to tenaya. Apparently even sponsored athletes were/are having a really hard time getiget any shoes out of 5.10.

In reply to SenzuBean:

Interesting - I had a pair of pinks just split across the toe, having only worn them twice about 3 years ago. 5.10 replaced them no trouble but said they had never seen anything like it before. I used to work in textiles and I reckon it was down to poor QA in the leather processing at the tannery or dye house, making the suede too soft. 

In reply to bpmclimb:

The Uprise are pretty much exactly the same as the velco 5:10 vcs, with the exception of the extra toe patch, which does make them feel a little stiffer "clunky" out the box. Mine are now bedding in and think they will get better with more use. I am still not totally convinced they are better than the 5:10 vcs, but I did have them as a go to shoe for years and years, so maybe a little sentimental. Sizing go 1/2 a size down from the 5:10 vcs.

In reply to Will Hempstead:

Completely agree with your assertion. Two pairs of anasazi velcros have come apart within months of getting them. I am now using Scarpa VS-R and will not be going back to 5.10 - ever!