In reply to
Well and the pinch and slide for HMS is also apparently not approved of even though that´s how it was always taught until it wasn´t taught that way any more!
There are a number of problems with the report, what consists of "too high" or "too near" for example. There isn´t any information available even for us who have worked as DAV instructors so by who´s criteria are these factors potentially a problem? That nearly everybody using an ATC actully holds the braking rope somewhere halfway between paying out and full braking is obvious and clearly causes no real problems but may not be what a climbing instructor wants to see from his pupils since his book will show it rigidly clamped in the full braking position when not actively paying out.
Another factor which raises ones eyebrows a bit is that the increased percieved danger of the various methods/devices is at direct odds with the statistical accident rate using these devices in previous studies done by the DAV which makes one question the accuracy of percieved risk. Or to put it more bluntly; what a student doing a practical year at the DAV thinks is "dangerous" belaying behaviour may well be a product of his years of following the party line and teaching punters at his local wall and may not reflect the real cause of belaying accidents. While probably no better or no worse than other countries the DAV instructors are definately neither all-knowing experts nor in some cases intellectually ever likely to be.
The entertaining schism between the DAV and the OÄV over the HMS is remembered fondly by many, while the two bodies cooperate on safety research and training they were still teaching different methods and both convinced they were right, the rest of the world of course just ignored them and bought an ATC.
The most noticeable feature of the results however is something completely different. The number of perceived failures increases with the time the device has been on the market or in common use AND the time the DAV have been instructing its use. The HMS has been taught for about 40 years and is appalling and the Click-Up not yet taught and interestingly is the safest by far. The ATC and GriGri fall perfectly into this observable pattern which one could well use as justification for rubbishing the DAV´s teaching. It´s a hard life out there!