UKC

Anasazis changed?

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 TomCooksey 06 Feb 2020

I've been climbing in Anasazi Tan UK size 7.5 for years and years, must be getting close to my 10th pair. So, when I saw a pair on sale back in August I bought them, ready for when my current pair wear out. That happened ~December, and when I tried on my new shoes I was surprised to find they came up _really_ small. I persevered expecting them to maybe loosen up, which they have a little but still very tight (more than half a size). What's more - last night I went through the toe, which normally doesn't happen for like 6-months. I certainly don't expect that after what is probably only 5-6 sessions. So maybe I've just got myself a duff pair?

Anyone else had recent issues with 5.10s, especially Anasazi?

I stick to the exact same pair because I know they always fit, I'm used to them and generally get on pretty well with them. I'm trying to work out if all Anasazis are somehow broken now and I have to go though the faff and expense of trying to find a new shoe I like, or if I just got one pair of duds?

In reply to TomCooksey:

Didn't Adidas buy them out and since then they have been a bit shit ?

3
In reply to TomCooksey:

Ye, Adidas bought them, moved production out of America to China, sine then they've had multiple issues with quality and sizing.

There's been so many threads about this I'm surprised you haven't seen any.

 galpinos 06 Feb 2020
In reply to TomCooksey:

I have moved from 5.10 to Unparallel but as far as I am aware, they have changed the sizing comparison between US and UK sizes, so you need to order the same US size as before, which is now classed as 0.5 UK size bigger.

i.e. US 9.5 was UK 8.5 and is now UK 9.

 wbo2 06 Feb 2020
In reply to TomCooksey: And when did this famous buy out take place?  So long ago I'd imagine you'd bought some shoes since then

If it's any consolation when BD moved production back to the US from China they had a run of horrible quality problems

 Wendy Watthews 06 Feb 2020
In reply to TomCooksey:

I have had similar issues, I always had the size 5 Anasazi's so usually order online. This time I had to return once to size up to 5.5 then again to size up to 6. 

I have had no issues with wear though.  

 afx22 06 Feb 2020
In reply to TomCooksey:

I have a pair that have also gone through on the tip of the toe, despite the fact that I only use them on slabs and I don't climb many of those.

There's loads of rubber left on the sole (90% as much as when new).  This is my third pair (plus a pair of Anazasi Pros) over the last 7 years of so.  99% of my climbing is done in downturned shoes.

I think I'll look elsewhere for a slab style shoe in future.

 galpinos 06 Feb 2020
In reply to galpinos:

> I have moved from 5.10 to Unparallel but as far as I am aware, they have changed the sizing comparison between US and UK sizes, so you need to order the same US size as before, which is now classed as 0.5 UK size bigger.

> i.e. US 9.5 was UK 8.5 and is now UK 9.

If that was unclear, go up a UK half size or by the same US size.

This was info from Stephen Reid @ Needle Sports.

 e.ms355 06 Feb 2020
In reply to galpinos:

Is this sizing difference for the Unparallel or the 5.10s? I'm thinking of changing myself

 Iamgregp 06 Feb 2020
In reply to Chive Talkin\':

To be fair it was 9 years ago that the buyout happened.... Think the current issues have all been over the last 18 months or so.

In reply to Iamgregp:

> To be fair it was 9 years ago that the buyout happened.... Think the current issues have all been over the last 18 months or so.

To be fair , I'm just repeating what I've read on threads . 

I don't wear such fancy shoes .  I had one pair 10 years ago and I wouldn't buy buy them again. 

Waste of money if you ask me .  People should just learn to climb better and not rely on a named brand to think it's going to improve their grade. 

;-D

Enjoy.

Post edited at 14:25
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 galpinos 06 Feb 2020
In reply to e.ms355:

That's the 5.10 change. For Unparallel, I went into Outside, tried them on then bought them, in case they fitted differently. I have the Regulus and am thinking of some UP Rise VCS for long trad routes.

 Iamgregp 06 Feb 2020
In reply to Chive Talkin\':

I've never had a pair of 5.10s 

I'm just your common or garden pedant. ;0)

OP TomCooksey 06 Feb 2020

Thanks for the pointers. I knew FiveTen had been acquired (someone mentioned in the pub last night) though I've bought plenty of pairs since then and they've been fine. I had searched the forums for other posts but hadn't come across much (though maybe they were tagged "5.10" rather than "FiveTen" or something). Anyway, sounds like it might be worth trying one more pair but half a size bigger (thx galpinos). That said, perhaps it is time to find something a bit more modern - just a bit overwhelmed by too many options!

 mal_meech 07 Feb 2020
In reply to TomCooksey:

I found the new 5.10 last too big in the ankle when I went up half a size, so will depend on your foot shape. I also moved onto UP in the last months, much closer to the old 5.10 shape but you will need to try for fit.


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