UKC

Hi all, would really appreciate some guidance.
Going to Baruntse in October/November. My first major peak.

The kit list provided is a bit vague. Was wondering if anyone who's been to similar altitudes or places could advise please?

Gloves- it says to bring: pairs of quality insulated mitts, Climbing gloves and 2 pairs of thermal gloves = what are 'climbing gloves' and what would I need for thermal gloves?

Trousers- can anyone recommend a suitable trouser model or salopette to wear over my thermal bottoms?

Fleeces- Got the Marmot Greenland duvet jacket which is awesome but can anyone suggest a suitable model of 'mid-layer fleece' and 'fleece or pile jacket'? Would a 100wt be ok?

Any advice gladly appreciated

In reply to Stani49:

First of all, my recent trip was aiming for peaks of just over 6000m in the Andes so lower than you and not the same area, BUT our kit list was the same.

Midlayer fleece: I took 2, a marmot one that was polartec 100 weight, and a slightly thinner Haglofs fleece that I didn't wear, not because it wasn't warm enough, just didn't get round to it and it stayed at base a lot of the time.

Fleece jacket: I wore my vapour rise.

Climbing gloves: ME Guide gloves, I took that to mean winter climbing gloves.

Thermal gloves: silk liners

Trousers: daren't really advise as such, since as I said to start with, different area and slightly lower altitude, but on cold summit days I was (just about) fine with Patagonia winter guide (same as mixmasters) over cheap thermal Peter Storm leggings.

Maybe the above is a little help? Can you speak to your expedition leader to see if what you have is suitable?

In reply to Stani49: I was on Baruntse in November 2011 - I had Mountain Equipment Redline mitts for summit day, lower down I was using two pairs of powerstretch gloves (one inside the other) and that did me for just about everything else as well (I did bring a few other spare pairs but really didn't use them).

Maybe 'climbing gloves' means something suitable for using jumars with - the Redlines have leather palm/finger panels and do just about fit through jumar handles. 'Thermal gloves' might refer to liner-type gloves - I had some mid-weight powerstretch gloves on under the Redlines and that system worked quite well for me, taking the Redlines off for a minute to take photos wasn't too chilly as long as I was quick. I did have cold fingers in the early morning on summit though, even with the Redlines on, I think i'd have been in a lot of trouble if I hadn't used such a warm glove.

Trouser-wise, I got some cheap down salopettes from Mountain Blackstone in Kathmandu. They worked well, my legs were quite warm but not too hot. I did think that I might have been able to get away with something lighter like the Rab Photon trousers that I had, along with a heavyweight pair of long thermals, but better safe than sorry.

The Greenland jacket looks really good (I used a PhD Xero jacket). For a mid-layer I used a Rab Photon jacket - it's light, windproof, warm and packs down smaller than a fleece. And I use it pretty much all the time around the UK when it's getting cold.

In reply to Stani49: Aha, just spotted you're doing Mera Peak as well - for that, the Redlines might be too warm (I also did Mera in 2011). I had some Lowe Alpine insulated winter climbing gloves (think Scottish winter glove and that's about right) with powerstretch gloves underneath and they worked fine. Didn't use the down trousers on Mera Peak, they would have been too warm - I think I used the Rab photon trousers with leggings underneath, but I guess any similar insulated trouser would be fine too.

In reply to Stani49:

Fantastic, thanks everyone. Have also been in touch with the expedition company for some tips but still mixed opinions-

for a fleece jacket am I best going for a 100wt fleece with a softshell windproof jacket or one that combines the two? Does a fleece jacket need to be windproof?

In reply to Stani49:

IMHO, your fleece jacket should be as breathable as possible and worn under your hardshell. SOmething like the Patagonia R3 series of Mountain Hardware Monkey Man fleece.

Another option is something along the lines of Artceryx Atom LT. A 'breathable' insualated jacket. Fleece jackets do make nicer pillows though and a nice respite form nylon on nylon.

In reply to Stani49:

My sixpence, gloves go for pairs of stretchy liners that will fit inside your mitts, put a pair in every jacket or top so you always have some spare wherever you end up
A mid weight glove ie windproof fleece, a thicker glove with leather / reinforced for climbing up / down ropes and warm ( I have some leather sheep skin line gloves for this as they will not get UK wet) mitts super warm just in case

The mountain hardware shop in Kathmandu has a god range of gloves so you can always get extras out there at a very keen price.

trouser I have always gone for 3/4 thermal tights, power-stretch over those and a windproof layer over those (goretex0

I usually use a couple of 100 weight fleeces layered under a down jacket with a large windproof jacket over the top of the lot with big pockets for gloves, food etc

Also November can get a lot colder than October especially high up keep this in mind when you are picking the above , hope you summit and come home happy and safe, Baruntse is on my 'to do' list let me know how you find it, Sam