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Best alternative to Sportiva Katana?

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 kevin stephens 03 Jul 2024

Sportiva Katanas seem hard to come by in real shops these days. Can anyone suggest a more commonly available similar alternative in terms of fit, comfort and relatively soft insole for long trad and grit? For reference I use Scarpa Vapours for sport climbing. Thanks

 C Witter 03 Jul 2024
In reply to kevin stephens:

Try a different shop? If a shop doesn't stock the Katana Lace, it is not really a climbing shop.

5
 wbo2 03 Jul 2024
In reply to kevin stephens:

Another pair of vapours? 

1
In reply to C Witter:

> Try a different shop? If a shop doesn't stock the Katana Lace, it is not really a climbing shop.

Shops have websites which show their (lack of) availability for Katanas hence saving wasted fuel cost. I’ve always preferred Katana velcro

1
In reply to wbo2:

> Another pair of vapours? 

They climb very differently to Katanas

 ste_d 03 Jul 2024
In reply to kevin stephens:

I must admit I did wonder if sportiva were discontinuing the katana when various shops were selling off stock cheap a few months back, this is just my speculation and could be completely erroneous... Sorry can't comment on an alternative

In reply to C Witter:

> Try a different shop? If a shop doesn't stock the Katana Lace, it is not really a climbing shop.

Maybe with your wisdom you can suggest “really a climbing shop” that has Katanas in stock in a range of sizes?

In reply to kevin stephens:

Tenaya Iati or Oasi could be worth a shot.

In reply to Euan McKendrick:

Thanks Euan

 Ramon Marin 03 Jul 2024
In reply to kevin stephens:

Laces or velcros?

In reply to Ramon Marin:

Velcros, I like the luxury of slipping them loose or off on belays on long routes

In reply to kevin stephens:

Oh some good news. It seems that although the old model Katana velcro is very scarce, a new Katana velcro is now available in a wide range of sizes, so panic over

 Jon Read 03 Jul 2024
In reply to kevin stephens:

Yes, it's just that a new model is coming out / come out. 

https://bananafingers.co.uk/la-sportiva-katana?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KC...

should suffice?

 Iamgregp 03 Jul 2024
In reply to Jon Read:

Yeah I just bought a pair of Katanas from Bananafingers a while couple of weeks ago so was confused by this thread.

New version just seem to be a slight cosmetic tweak. Feel and sizing is same as always.

 nufkin 03 Jul 2024
In reply to kevin stephens:

> similar alternative in terms of fit, comfort and relatively soft insole

Have you tried the Kubos? If I recall the Sportivawaffle correctly, they're based on the Katana last, but with a split sole and a bit more rubber over the toes to make them a bit softer and more techy

 Morgan Woods 06 Jul 2024
In reply to kevin stephens:

I have gone from Katanas to Skwama for trad, sport, single, multi and indoor. Wouldn't bother with any other shoe now. I am a street 42 and size them 39.5 or 40 but they are not super tight, just need a session or two with the plastic sheets provided. If you can, then I think a one shoe fits all approach for multiple styles removes a lot of hassle. I used to bring 2 Skwamas to the crag, one warm up and one for send but now get by with one pair for the whole day. Each pair gets a resole once, then they become indoor shoes for board climbs etc where a few rand holes don't matter.


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