Aimed at indoor beginners, the Beta and Beta Eco offer a forgiving and comfortable fit for climbing shoe first timers, without sacrificing too much performance on the steeper ground that tends to typify climbing at the wall, says Rob Greenwood.
In the section on Rubber:
> Both the Beta and Beta Eco feature Boreal's Quattro rubber compound. Compared to Zenith, which is their stickiest compound, Quattro is geared a little more towards durability and edging.
But just below this is a picture of both shoes with "Zenith" stamped into the soles.
And checking out the product page, they appear to use "Zenith Quattro", so I'm a bit confused by this.
I've been using the Beta women's for a couple of years now. Although I historically have always gone for a more 'performance' shoe, some recent toe issues caused me to seek out something more comfortable. I've worn them for a full range of indoor bouldering up to v7, they work great on slabs, edges, steep ground, heel hooks. The only thing they don't do so well is toe hooking as there is no rubber on top of the toe box.
I have also done lots of bouldering and sport climbing in these. The stiffer sole actually is perfect for supporting the foot on longer routes, and I have got up some relatively hard stuff in them!
I went a full shoe size down from my usual rock shoe size (2 smaller than my trainer size) and they were spot on for use straight out of the box. Can't recommend these enough for any climber who is looking for decent performance without crippling themselves.
> In the section on Rubber:
> But just below this is a picture of both shoes with "Zenith" stamped into the soles.
> And checking out the product page, they appear to use "Zenith Quattro", so I'm a bit confused by this.
I've updated this section to make it clearer, as it was missing a single word which would have made it a lot clearer. In short: Quattro is a more durable, but less sticky compound than Zenith Pro (and it's the Pro bit that I'd forgotten to add).
> mistake ? Eco more expensive than beta ?
No, that's correct - the Beta Eco comes in at £90 (vs. the £80 of the Beta).
The only thing I'd add, which we always suggest adding whenever a sponsored climber is posting about a product from a brand they're supported by, is to identify that while posting - just so everyone reading is aware of the affiliation.
Glad you've got on with them as well though. It sounds like you've got a little more performance out of yours than I have mine, but I suspect a part of that is because I've been reviewing the Crux - hence have tended to put those on when the going gets tough.
Incidentally I've been really impressed with those too and a review should be incoming within the next few weeks...
You're right Rob, will do so in future. My motivation for posting on this thread was simply to share how much these shoes have genuinely helped me to keep climbing at the standard I'm used to, despite having horrendously painful problems with my big toes, which I know is a common issue for plenty on here.
Also, grey is my favourite 'colour', so I like the way they look.... Shallow, I know!