UKC

Carabiner recommendation

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 Flinticus 06 Apr 2021

Hi

Looking for a carabiner recommendation. Purpose is connecting self-belay devices & maintaing correct orientation so preferably a narrow 0 shape (doesn't need to take knotted rope) with an anti-cross loading internal clip, or, alternatively, is there a device I can put on an existing carabiner to stop / hinder movement?

Ta

 jimtitt 06 Apr 2021
In reply to Flinticus:

Ocun Biner Fix (there are other similar designs available) or a thick rubber band.

 Wally 06 Apr 2021
In reply to Flinticus:

I find Petzl OK screw gates work really well for self belay purpose. I started climbing with screw gates this shape and always found them useful for a 1:1 connection to avoid cross loading.

 nikoid 06 Apr 2021
In reply to Flinticus:

You don't say what your exact set up is, but have you considered using maillons?

 Flinticus 06 Apr 2021
In reply to nikoid:

Yeah, and I've got some but one of them required to be opened with a pliers! Even thought it was handed tightened. Perhaps some dirt had gotten into the threads? So I've been using them as part of my anchor system instead.

 nikoid 06 Apr 2021
In reply to Flinticus:

I'd get some new ones then! By far the best defence against crossloading when using a shunt for example.

In reply to Flinticus:

Petzl OK are good (or DMM Ultra O, etc), but I suggest *not* a screwgate, go for self locking.

An oval quicklink nipped up tight with a little adjustable spanner (Maillon Rapide, etc) is cheap and dependable

There is a magical product that can be retrofitted to krabs, it's called finger tape, put some straight across the middle from gate to spine, to divide into upper and lower halves, twice round should do it. The only consideration is if you have one that doesn't leave a sticky residue on the krab.

 Flinticus 06 Apr 2021
In reply to CantClimbTom:

> Petzl OK are good (or DMM Ultra O, etc), but I suggest *not* a screwgate, go for self locking.

Why? To reduce instances of forgetting to lock or more resistant to opening by accident (rubbing againt rock etc.).

 John Kelly 06 Apr 2021
In reply to Flinticus:

Which device?

 Hooo 06 Apr 2021
In reply to Flinticus:

For self belay I use a DMM Belay master the wrong way round - with the device in the small end and the big end on my harness. I tried very hard to get it to cross-load or not sit correctly but it has always ended up correctly oriented.

Post edited at 19:45
 Flinticus 11 Apr 2021
In reply to Hooo:

Bought a Grivel Clepsydrya (what a name?!) which is perfect


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