Climbing shoe reco - Low volume, Long toes, Big Big toe

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 GPAGE 10 Jan 2022

Hi all,

I'm currently looking for a new pair of climbing shoes for mostly indoor bouldering. I tried on loads of shoes at multiple shops (mostly la sportiva, tenaya) but unfortunately didn't find any shoes that worked for me in the time that I had. I seem to have very difficult feet to fit, so wanted to cast a wide net in case you know of any shoes which may be able to fit the brief. Heres the details so far:

  • Low volume feet, with long toes (and an especially big, big toe - its like a fat thumb)
  • Street size - 9.5–10 UK (depending on brand)
  • I've been using velcro katanas (size 8) for the past 3 years. They're still a bit baggy but were the smallest I could go in terms of toe box. I've also been told by shop staff that they are not well fitting
  • In the katanas, and most other shoes that I try on, I get an incredibly painful hotspot on my big toe knuckle, but baggy around surrounding areas. I can't 
  • I have been climbing (mostly bouldering) on and off for 4+ years
  • Currently climbing v3-4 (99% indoor bouldering), would love to move into v5s this year and do more climbing outdoors
  • Probably looking for medium stiff, low to medium aggressive shoes, but open to trying outside of this if the shoe fits
  • The closest shoes to being right that I tried in shop were Sportiva mythos (size 7.5) on but still felt too painful on the toe in comparison to getting rid of the space/bagginess elsewhere

Any guidance would be amazing, Thank you in advance

In reply to GPAGE:

Your feet sound quite similar to mine and I get on well with the new Scarpa Boostics, might be worth a try

 Mike Stretford 10 Jan 2022
In reply to GPAGE: I sounds like you have similar feet to me.... I wore Mythos for years.

I actually wear Ocun Crest LU for inside, and apparently climb at least V5. They're sold as a comfy beginner shoe, but buy them tight and I find they perform well. I'm that happy with my first pair I'm getting them resoled in XS Grip 2 for outside use. It's all down to what fits your foot like a glove.

Post edited at 13:19
OP GPAGE 10 Jan 2022
In reply to Suncream:

Thanks! Will def check out.

OP GPAGE 10 Jan 2022
In reply to Mike Stretford:

Thanks! Will def check out. Also the price tag is v appealing.

 alan moore 10 Jan 2022
In reply to GPAGE:

You describe my feet. I've always struggled to find a shoe narrow enough and can't stand the pain of curled up toes.

Now on my 4th pair of size 8.5 Boreal Zephyrs. Like those mentioned above, sold as a beginner shoe. Mine are good for 5b/c edging on slate and Culm slabs when new and comfy enough for all day mountains when broken in.

 ewanjp 10 Jan 2022
In reply to GPAGE:

Sounds like my feet - having a massive big toe is a total pain for any kind of shoe I find. 

Climbing shoes I buy tight fitting mythos shoes - they stretch a lot and become comfortable.

 Jon Read 10 Jan 2022
In reply to GPAGE:

You have what's sounds like a 'classic' or Egyptian toe shape, and a low volume foot (and heel?). Wecome to the vague murky world of climbing shoe models..... suggest you look at the rock and run guide, and go from there.  Several of the suggestions above have central toe shapes rather than the offset/classic it sounds like you need. 

 PaulW 10 Jan 2022
In reply to GPAGE:

+1 for Mythos / Zephyr. 

 Iamgregp 11 Jan 2022
In reply to GPAGE:

Just a general observation, but you might be better off looking at lace ups rather than velcro.  I know that's not ideal for indoor bouldering when you'll have them on and off a lot, but laces allow you more precision in how tight they are along the length of the foot.

OP GPAGE 11 Jan 2022

thanks for all your help! will let you know how I get on.

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