UKC

Climbing shoes for people with long big toes

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 beardy mike 23 Jul 2019

My missus has just started climbing and seems to enjoy it - 20 years after we started seeing each other which is all a bit of a revelation! Shes climbed 5a slab in approach shoes so I suspect once she gets into a pair of rock shoes she might be rather good. The problem is she has a long big toe and very assymetric shaped feet in general. I on the other hand have "german feet" which are just really uncomfortable for her. What brands do you use if you have those sort of shaped feet? Are there work arounds which might be useful? She loses her big toe nail if theres too much pressure on it... maybe  silicone toe protectors?

 duchessofmalfi 23 Jul 2019
In reply to beardy mike:

Has she tried your feet on?

 Jenny C 23 Jul 2019
In reply to beardy mike:

Get her to a decent climbing shop and the staff will enjoy the challenge of finding the perfect shoe for her. 

OP beardy mike 23 Jul 2019
In reply to duchessofmalfi:

I need my feet and quite frankly, I don't want hers in exchange.

OP beardy mike 23 Jul 2019
In reply to Jenny C:

Yeah - not that close to a really good selection, but just wondering if other people have a particular brand they like... for example I've always thought Red Chilli are rather narrow which might suit her but I'm not sure as I've only had one pair of feet in my life...

 deepsoup 23 Jul 2019
In reply to beardy mike:

It's always the tip of my big toe that hurts while I'm trying to break in new shoes. 

I've been using Scarpa Vapour Vs for a while now.  The last pair (which were the mk2 with a lot more rubber over the toes than the previous version) were hellish to break in, I suspect because the extra rubber prevented the toe box from stretching into shape for a while.

The current pair, the latest version, were remarkably comfy from the start.  So maybe have a look at some of those?

 IPPurewater 23 Jul 2019
In reply to beardy mike:

Perhaps a board lasted shoe to support the big toe, if you can't find a pair of slip lasted ones that fit well.

1
 ColdWill 23 Jul 2019
In reply to beardy mike:

Muiras are asymmetric with plenty of space above the big toe if she doesn't mind having them a bit crimped. 

OP beardy mike 23 Jul 2019
In reply to IPPurewater:

Did think maybe board lasted might work although theres not that many around these days... 

 IPPurewater 23 Jul 2019
In reply to beardy mike:

Have a look at this Mike.

https://media.redchiliclimbing.com/images/attribut/RC_Schuhgroessenberater_...

The Sausalito perhaps.

I like my previous generation of Sausalito shoe. They are rather stiff laterally.

Boreal have the Zephyr, Ace and Ballet Gold which are board lasted.

Post edited at 23:04
OP beardy mike 24 Jul 2019
In reply to IPPurewater:

Yeah, I thought of the ace - they were my second shoes way back when they were black and green! The red chilli I didn’t know about...

In reply to beardy mike:

I also have unusually long big toes. I much prefer a stiff shoe so have been using FiveTen Whites for a few years and bought a couple of pairs the last time they were discontinued. I have previously used Boreal board lasted shoes which were supportive and comfortable. Trying a few pairs is best but I hate buying 'new' shoes as I usually end up too small or bug. Good luck.

 Babika 24 Jul 2019
In reply to beardy mike:

I have long big toes and everything tends to hurt. Also I have damaged the big toe nail massively over years due to "trauma" according to my chiropodist. Hey ho

I now wear Boreal Silex (laces version) and they seem OK 

Agree with others about Boreal

 dsh 24 Jul 2019
In reply to beardy mike:

My wife has a similar issue with long big toes and the Tenaya Tarifas are good for her, https://tenaya.net/en/tarifa.

 David Coley 28 Jul 2019
In reply to beardy mike:

Mythos 

I have a much longer big toe and these are the only things that fit. Unfortunately they don't climb well. However they are perfect all day or beginner shoes for narrow feet and I'm sure would be fine up to UK 5a, so even when she is leading UK 6a, they will still get use on long easy routes 

OP beardy mike 28 Jul 2019
In reply to David Coley:

> so even when she is leading UK 6a, they will still get use on long easy routes 

Easy tiger - that means I’ll have to get better...

 timparkin 28 Jul 2019
In reply to beardy mike:

I've got a long big toe and I like my Maestro's. I'm currently trying a pair of Insinct Lace and finding out if I can cope with a bent toe. I'll get back to you! p.s. The Maestro's stretched just over half a size I think. 

Tim


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