UKC

/ REVIEW: Crack Gloves from OR and Ocun

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Crack gloves montage, 3 kbCrack gloves aren't just for softies and North Americans, says Toby Archer, they're great for gritstone too - particularly in the colder months. He checks out two models currently available in the UK.

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3
Hardonicus - on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC Gear:

I put this in the same camp as clipsticks. You take the tick but deep down, if you look hard enough, you can feel the shame within.

Especially on VS.
51
HeMa on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to Hardonicus:

Yes, I advice you to visit Kustavi -region in southern Finland. VS is roughly 5+/6-.

Oh, and your limit needs to be max E1(6-/6) if you complain about the use on VS.

Then comment again ;).


BTW, no chalk, shoes, rope or clothes either, as they are all cheatin' ;).

5
tjin - on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to Hardonicus:
meh, i'm just shameless. Even deep wihtin.
Post edited at 11:21
1
galpinos on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC Gear:

I have a pair if the original Ocun ones, I see they have swapped the strap orientation round as I find mine undo quite regularly. I also found the sizing difficult as to get them snug enough to jam, they seem to restict my hands a bit when I'm not jamming.

I like them, but have had a few occasions where their thickness has left me with marginal jams when they should have been bomber (i.e. on Dexterity the straight up crack they were sinker but as it heads right a bit I struggled to get my hands in so started to get pumped and panic....) so recently have gone back to tape.

On the back of your review, I think the OR ones would be more my thing but am finding tape gives enough comfort without affecting my hand size too much.

Anyway, it's bouldering season on the grit now so I'll consider this all again in the spring........
Fredt on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC Gear:

> Crack gloves aren't just for softies and North Americans...

Yes they are.

21
Wft on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to Hardonicus:


Can you explain your clipstick comment please?
4
planetmarshall on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to Hardonicus:

> I put this in the same camp as clipsticks.

If I especially want to risk breaking my ankles, I'll do it on a trad route where the risk actually counts for something. Who wants to do that on a sport climb? Bizarre.
4
Ramon Marin - on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC Gear:

I have a pair of Ocuns and are flippin brilliant. More sustainable that keep using tape all the time.
2
kipman725 - on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC Gear:

I thought aid climbing had gone out of fashion?
23
planetmarshall on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to Ramon Marin:

> I have a pair of Ocuns and are flippin brilliant. More sustainable that keep using tape all the time.

Anecdotally, I only ever hear lower grade climbers object to them. No one I know operating in the mid E's and above has ever raised an eyebrow. Maybe additional suffering is an acceptable substitute for harder climbing?
4
webbo - on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC Gear:
So we have 3 E1 leaders stating gloves are cheating. I hope your E1's are not up graded VS or HVS cracks
3
HeMa on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to webbo:



Oddly enough, the gloves don’t really help E2 onwards, as at least on granite that is where you simply don’t have hand cracks. It’s either fingers, thin hands or ow.
7
Angrypenguin - on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC Gear:

I have really thin skin on the backs of my hands so these are great for extra protection. Bought a pair of Ocun ones a few weeks ago and had a great day at Froggat. My partner was making fun of me until he tried them at which point he declared them to be really very good.
2
Stuart en Écosse - on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to Hardonicus:

I don't know about the clipstick but I agree with the rest of your comment, in the similarly tongue in cheek way that I suspect you intended, which has so far been missed by 20 people

Mildly amusing tale involving tape/gloves: I encountered a bunch of US marines at the old Fort Bill wall many years ago. They were all gigantic in a steroid kind of way and couldn't climb for toffee. The only way they were ever going to get to the top holds would be to pull the wall down, which they looked more capable of than getting themselves off the ground. The wall had a pretty hard jam crack (6a/6b UK) and they were all trying and failing, all with a ton of tape on their hands which I'd never seen before. I meekly asked if I could have a go, they weren't too happy about a lanky 10 stone streak of piss cruising up it with no tape. I even managed to pretend that it didn't hurt
buxtoncoffeelover - on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to Hardonicus:

Sticky rubber rock shoes, kernmantel ropes, proper/modern sit harness, camming devices, chalk.......All cheating!!;-)
1
Sam Yarwood - on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC Gear:

I would like a pair of either, but I just can’t get past the thought of what Don & Joe would say...
mattrm - on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC Gear:

I have a pair of the Ocuns. I'm definitely a wimp, but they do make crack climbing miles easier. I certainly don't 'feel the shame' at all. I quite like my hands un shredded.

I got the Ocuns cause they fitted my hand a bit better and felt more robust than the OR pair. Not used them loads, but when I have they've been great.
1
planetmarshall on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to Stuart en Écosse:

Good story, though it seems less to do with absence or otherwise of tape and more to do with the fact that you could climb, and they couldn't.
1
Stuart en Écosse - on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to planetmarshall:

Ha, one of their arms weighed more than I did. Light hearted banter aside, were I start climbing again and throwing myself at big cracks, especially multipitch ones or multiple days on grit, I'd have a pair of those gloves without a second thought. As someone said further up, it's cheating, just like Firés were.
TheGeneralist - on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC Gear:

If I clipstick is needed then its the FA that has failed, not the person using the clipstick. If you're going to bolt something then do it properly.

Anyway, back to the gloves. Many years ago BC, we had a great few days at the Creek * and did some excellent lines such as SOTD etc. In the end we binned it and went back to Alta to ski. Not because we wanted to ski particularly but because our hands were completely shot.

I'd love to go back the IC, but don't think it worth it for 3 days climbing. If I could use gloves like this and have a proper week or routes then it'd be great.

* yes I know.
2
webbo - on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to Sam Yarwood:

> I would like a pair of either, but I just can’t get past the thought of what Don & Joe would say...

Close friends of yours then.
2
ashtond6 - on 18 Nov 2017
In reply to HeMa:

>

> Oddly enough, the gloves don’t really help E2 onwards, as at least on granite that is where you simply don’t have hand cracks. It’s either fingers, thin hands or ow.

Bollocks. But what is the point in arguing. Do your research and you will find many!
HeMa on 18 Nov 2017
In reply to ashtond6:
Indian greek topo seems to disagree. And so does my local cliffs.
Post edited at 06:35
2
Chris Craggs - on 18 Nov 2017
In reply to Stuart en Écosse:

A team of were climbing in Veedauwoo which is renown for its gnarly cracks, when a local sidled over to us and asked if were from 'around here' as they had noticed we weren't taping up - the response 'Nah - we're from Yorkshire' confused him no end!

Chris
eggburt1952 - on 18 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC Gear:

cheating
13
Dale Berry on 18 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC Gear:
Valkyrie at the roaches in less than perfect conditions. One pair of Ocun gloves between us to start with. One of the best experiences I have had on any route, let alone multi- pitch grit and only seconding, to finish with. I don’t want to be cheated out of such memories.
gethin_allen on 18 Nov 2017
In reply to Sam Yarwood:

> I would like a pair of either, but I just can’t get past the thought of what Don & Joe would say...

I find that the older people I speak to who really experienced the issues with old crap gear are for more open to progress. In which case they'd probably love to have a pair and be happy to use them.
But, I imagine they'd be thinking about what new difficult unclimbed lines they could climb with the new gear not how much easier a route they can already climb would be.
1
ashtond6 - on 18 Nov 2017
In reply to HeMa:

> Indian greek topo seems to disagree. And so does my local cliffs.

So you are making that judgement only based on cliffs that are basically all vertical? ;)
HeMa on 18 Nov 2017
In reply to ashtond6:

IC isn’t all vertical. Neither are my local crags.
mark s - on 18 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC Gear:

deffo not cheating.
ive never used shop made gloves, but I have made gloves out of tape. some routes require them. one route at Ramshaw has a pebble right where I like to jam. this rips your hand apart without. also at Ramshaw national acrobat it is essential as you pretty much mantle on a hand jam.
I probably wont buy these but I will use tape gloves again soon.
TonyB - on 19 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC Gear:

It's really strange that you say crack gloves are for softies and North Americans, as we couldn't buy a pair when we were there. I remember asking in REI Boulder, and the sales guy looked at me as though I was asking for pof. In the end he said that they didn't sell them here, but I could buy a roll of tape. We had better luck in Wild Iris Sports in Lander, where they at least had them and seemed willing to sell them, but only in size XL. In the end we didn't bother, and climbed Devil's Tower without them. I didn't see anyone using them in Colorado or Wyoming, but we weren't at the main crack areas and drove straight past Vaedawoo.
ashtond6 - on 20 Nov 2017
In reply to HeMa:

You know best
1
eggburt1952 - on 20 Nov 2017
In reply to Dale Berry:

you cheated yourself
4
eggburt1952 - on 20 Nov 2017
In reply to mark s:

ask yourself this question ...were cheating gloves used by the first ascentionists?
8
cb294 - on 20 Nov 2017
In reply to eggburt1952:

The cheating slur is blatant idiocy. What is the "ethical" difference supposed to be between a multi layer tape glove, possibly even taped over the top over a gardening glove, as e.g. advertised by the Randall/Whittaker in their videos, and a dedicated, reusable glove? Sponsorship by Beiersdorf or Metolius?

I use either tape or gloves, depending on crack width, as My Ocun gloves can make thin hands impossible to climb (to wide for fingers, but impossible to get the knuckle area into the crack).

CB

DubyaJamesDubya - on 20 Nov 2017
In reply to eggburt1952:

Prick or troll I can't decide.
DubyaJamesDubya - on 20 Nov 2017
In reply to cb294:

> The cheating slur is blatant idiocy. What is the "ethical" difference supposed to be between a multi layer tape glove, possibly even taped over the top over a gardening glove, as e.g. advertised by the Randall/Whittaker in their videos, and a dedicated, reusable glove? Sponsorship by Beiersdorf or Metolius?

> I use either tape or gloves, depending on crack width, as My Ocun gloves can make thin hands impossible to climb (to wide for fingers, but impossible to get the knuckle area into the crack).

> CB

I've had a pair for a couple of years but keep forgetting to use them. I have no qualms over using them though, as I find my hands take an age to heal these days. How can it be OK to tape but not OK to wear gloves?
Mick Ward - on 20 Nov 2017
In reply to eggburt1952:

> ask yourself this question ...were cheating gloves used by the first ascentionists?


And ask yourself these questions:


Were cheating cams used by the first ascentionists?

Were cheating hexes used by the first ascentionists?

Were cheating harnesses used by the first ascentionists?


I could go on - but I won't! If it's any consolation, personally I also feel somewhat equivocal about jamming gloves (a generation thing maybe, for both of us?) But if we start applying retrospective style criteria to routes, well it all gets a bit crazy. Ultimately the only routes we'd have done in good style would have been the onsight solos.

Mick (getting crazier by the day...)






Christheclimber on 20 Nov 2017
In reply to Mick Ward:

And of course sticky rubber. I remember quite a few climbers who thought Fires were cheating boots when they first came on to the market.

Chris
HeMa on 20 Nov 2017
In reply to Mick Ward:

> Ultimately the only routes we'd have done in good style would have been the onsight solos.

True, provided they were done blindfolded, naked and dominant arm tied behinds ones back...

Oh and in hobnail boots.
Mick Ward - on 20 Nov 2017
In reply to Christheclimber:

Although, famously, Jerry didn't! Maybe he had more sense than the rest of us.

Long, long after the advent of Friends, I was still stacking hexes and indulging in all that obscure malarky. 'Cos Friends made things too easy...

I look back now and think, 'Get a life!'

Mick
Mick Ward - on 20 Nov 2017
In reply to HeMa:

Should have added those caveats! The best I can manage is nude, barefoot soloing. Can't possibly imagine how that hasn't caught on.

Surely as long as we:

a) don't damage the rock/environment (both social and natural)

b) tell the truth about it

the style of ascent doesn't matter. In terms of acceptability, crack gloves are where stick-clips and, before them, mats, once were. Most people will probably end up using them. And, for those who wish not to, then fine.

Mick
Tyler - on 20 Nov 2017
In reply to Mick Ward:
You could look at it and think you've climbed during the best age as you managed to keep your grade up due to things emerging (equipment, climbing walls, styles) to counter age related deterioration!
Post edited at 13:47
Mick Ward - on 20 Nov 2017
In reply to Tyler:

Agree - gimme those crack gloves!

Mick
Christheclimber on 20 Nov 2017
In reply to Mick Ward:

> Although, famously, Jerry didn't! Maybe he had more sense than the rest of us.

> Long, long after the advent of Friends, I was still stacking hexes and indulging in all that obscure malarky. 'Cos Friends made things too easy...

> I look back now and think, 'Get a life!'

> Mick

I also (for same strange reason) resisted Friends when they came out but bought Fires very early on, they were magic as I could suddenly lead Heartless Hare having failed to do so in EBs. Think I’ll be buying some jamming gloves quite soon.

Chris
TobyA on 20 Nov 2017
In reply to Ramon Marin:

I think a couple of Brad Gobright's recent instagrams might have given some well deserved credibility to the Ocun gloves. https://www.instagram.com/bradgobright/?hl=en The one of him soloing makes me feel a bit queasy, but he clearly thinks the gloves work well!
Wee Davie - on 20 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC Gear:

Crack gloves look brilliant. I've only done limited crack climbing and it's something I'd really like to get the hang of. I find the pantomime 'shock horror' responses from people on this thread pretty amusing. Take any gear- dependent sport- each technological advantage is decried as heresy then soon accepted. 30 years ago it was cams and sticky rubber. 10-15 years ago it was leashless Winter. Crazy- take the advantages and run with them I say!
TobyA on 20 Nov 2017
In reply to Wee Davie:

I think your region may well have a big part in how much use they will be. I was climbing in Wales this weekend, slate and rhyolite, and even though I did have the OR ones in my pack, and it was cold and a bit damp at least on saturday in the slate quarries, I didn't really feel the need for them - even on Mad Dog of the West (VS 5a) which as the pics show is a good crack! The rock just isn't very rough or there aren't many possible jams. I don't remember learning to jam much in the southern and western bits of Scotland, although there are obvious exceptions I'm sure (well indeed: https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=277037 and I wore mine in Reiff last year). If you are ever down this way Davie you can borrow a pair and I'll belay you on some gritstone classics https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=42109
Wee Davie - on 20 Nov 2017
In reply to TobyA:

I really fancy getting on some real crack climbing (especially on the grit) so may take you up on that!
Jimbo C - on 23 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC Gear:

But what about the immense personal satisfaction of climbing a fist jamming crack (without tape / gloves) and coming out without a scratch? It has been known to happen occasionally.
TobyA on 23 Nov 2017
In reply to Jimbo C:

Keep at it! Personally I get satisfaction from getting up anything in ok style these days, gloved or not!

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