In reply to mike kann:
A quick torture session and the answer is you (probably) wont die!
When you overload guide plates they do funny things.
The first is that the trapped rope escapes sideways from under the tensioned rope and gets trapped between the tensioned rope and the side of the slot.This is very difficult to free off and you have to dismantle everything and twist the locking krab brutally to release the rope. Take your Prusiks.
Apply yet more load and the trapped rope where it crosses the tensioned rope goes down through the slot with a bang. At this point the holding power drops off considerably but not catastrophically, though pretty near!
Easy to releasse, just unclip the krab when unweighted. Still need to take your Prusiks!
ATC Guide. 9mm Edelrid, used, non treated. First fail mode 2.96kN. Max fail load 5.58kN. Residual load 1.6kN
ATC Guide. 8.2mm Edelrid, new,treated. First fail mode 2.05kN. Max fail load 4.06kN. Residual load 1.2kN
Reverso³. 9mm Edelrid, used, non treated. First fail mode 2.25kN. Max fail load 3.60kN. Residual load 0.9kN
Reverso³. 8.2mm Edelrid, new,treated. First fail mode 1.6kN. Max fail load 2.38kN. Residual load 0.7kN
Reverso³. 10.2 Mammut, used, non treated. First fail mode 3.68kN. Stopped test at 7kN as I didn´t have the tester guards on and things start breaking over these sort of loads!
All with Petzl Attache 12mm round profile karabiner.
No rope damage observed.
Very abrupt stop with less than 5cm slip (estimated but certainly less than a Grigri).
Jim