UKC

Hi All,

Looking for advice on good all round crampons.
I did an Ice climbing course over Xmas and am pretty hooked on having a go at more winter stuff so am looking to get some kit.

I've already got some B3 boots, so ideally looking for C3 crampons.
The ones I used on the course were Petzl monopoint ones, which were definitely too extreme for what I plan on doing and at my level would not appreciate the advantages of high end kit. I'm looking at up to about Scottish grade IV (Tower ridge and the like), though I would like them to be able to cope with a bit of water ice up to WI4/5 possibly. 

It would be great if I could also use them for less technical stuff too.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Steve

Probably something modular that you can change to suit your needs, and do everything, options would be petzl lynx, grivel g14, black diamond cyborgs, less technical options would be g12, varseks, sabertooth, all capable of doing what you describe, just beware if  you get hooked you may find that if you want to do steeper ice/ mixed that the modular options will do it all. You can pick up g14's second hand quite reasonably and just replace the points when you need to.

I'll check out those modular options. Does this make them less durable though?

If I get 'proper' hooked, I'll end up with multiple pairs if my climbing shoe habit is anything to go by

Thanks

Steve

Not at all, they will last for years! The lynx are probably the best do everything crampons that are available at the moment , I have used lynx's for the last 3 years, have also used darts, g20's . The lynx climb just as well as any other monopoint crampon with the advantage of being able to replace the front points when they wear out (as do g14's) they will also fit most boots , 

Looking at the Petzl Lynx, they seem to be exactly what I'm looking for. 

Thanks for your help!

Steve.

No worries, have fun with them

To offer a slightly alternate opinion- 

My first pair of crampons was a pair of Petzl Lynx's a few years ago. No specific complaints about them, however I ended up buying some G12's the next year as well- I decided it's no fun trying to climbing steep waterfall ice on a pair of crampons you just wrecked/blunted doing mixed climbing in Scotland or tramping about in the alps with.

In hindsight I would buy a pair of G12s or similar (maybe second hand since they are bomb proof and I'm sure lots of people buy them and barely use them) and a pair of g22's or darts- much lighter than the lynx and with less points to spike yourself with (the lynx really is a weapon!!). On the plus side for the lynx you can experiment with mono vs dual point and replace the front points if they wear out. It does really depends what you are going to be using them for and how often and I'd say from your post you are on the borderline. 

I have a pair of Lynx as my only crampons and can't fault them at all. The only issue, as alluded to above, is that you might spend a lot of time sharpening them if you plod around the Alps on rock in them before using them months later on ice.

Or just have a spare set of front points for ice

See, now that's the sort of higher-level clever thinking I'm apparently incapable of...

+1 for the Lynx

Think you got your definitive answer in the first reply.

I wouldn't consider G12s as you'll struggle for penetration on water ice. The broad flat front point style is optimised to allow good horizontal support on snow. You could climb mixed at the grades in mention but I'd go for a vertical front point modular style if water ice is also on the cards. Plus if you plan both mixed and ice then you can have a separate set of front points for both styles. Keep a really sharp set away from mixed and just for ice.

Check the cost of replacement points. I went for G14s over Lynx's because the replacement points were half the price.

That's a good point ( no pun intended) about the points but kuznia szpeju make replacement points for the lynx which are much cheaper than the originals, I use their mixed picks for most stuff and also their sport picks for tooling and am very pleased with them so I imagine the front pints word be just as good

I worked out yesterday (yes I was bored walking up hill) it's 26 years since I first started using crampons, and I've used lots of different types a fair amount. I used to do most of my ice climbing on monos (DMM Terminators) but that was in Finland where it was normally much colder than it ever gets here. As soon as it wasn't -15 or colder, normal 12 points where fine, sometimes better or at least no disadvantages. For the UK 12 points are also great, both for mixed and ice. I have some 16 year old Grivel G12s and some Climbing Technology Nuptse. The CT ones have slightly shorter points which makes them a little bit better for walking around in when there is little snow covering the rock. I've done a V in them and they were good. I've climbed vertical ice in the G12s in the past and they've been super reliable. I have had to make my own anti-bots for them this year though as the originals disintegrated! 

Modular crampons like to he Lynx can be great but tend to be heavier, can all up more and occasionally bolts and the like can shear off after heavy use (I broke the frame of one Terminator for instance).

G14s and other similar designs work well as all rounders because the main part of the crampon is a pretty traditional style but the front points can be changed and replaced. They wouldn't be excessive on a III and will see you right up through the grades if you wanted.

Thanks for the kuznia szpeju tip, that looks like an awesome site for spares!

Thanks everyone else for your advice. 

I think the Lynx fit the bill best, the binding options and adjustabiity seem to make them good for almost anything and any boots, The Petzl replacement parts are more expensive, but a single point from kuznia szpeju seems to be 10 euro. 
I can probably see myself getting some g12 type crampons for more relaxed objectives though.

Cheers

Steve

Your welcome, when you get your lynx's put them into mono mode straight away then you already have a spare set of front points! Still plenty of winter left to be enjoyed as well

^^^^^^

Solid gold advice.

Do you really find that?  I think for years I presumed that would be the case until I broke my terminators and had to use my G12s for a bit until DMM very kindly sent me a new pair of Terminators. I remember being quite amazed at how little difference using the G12s over mono made. Yes, when its very cold and the ice is bottle smooth, monos are great. I can see the argument for them on very technical mixed, but I've climbed up to VI,6 mixed on horizontal dual points, and it wasn't crampons that made it feel hard!

I was googling just now as I remembered Will Gadd saying all you need is Sabretooths (essentially BDs G12s) and then found Steve House basically saying he can climb anything in G12s as well.

I still reckon Mr Routrax as a beginner wanting an all rounder should save the cash and 200 grams (take it in marsbars or more slings or a bothy bag!), and go for Vasaks, G12s, Nuptses or similar.

I'm pretty sure Will Gadd and Steve House (and almost all other winter climbers!) could climb harder winter routes than me in flipflops  

I fully understand your points (pun intended), but I did mention in my original post that I wasn't initally looking for mono-points and with my lack of experience wouldn't even fully understand the advantages of them compared to other crampons. I'm just after something that would be versatile, durable and cover most of the scenarios I might encounter as a winter noob with a single pair of crampons. Having the right tool for the job make me more confident.  Also I don't like mars bars...

Thanks for your input Toby (I mean this sincerely) and I agree that skill outweighs equipment.

Cheers
Steve 

Interested to hear your feedback on the Kuznia Szpeju front points. I looked at their site for both G14 and Lynx front points.

However it looks cheaper to buy the original Grivel points from Needle sports?

The Petzl points are only about £3 cheaper from KS.

I've got a pair of Charlet Moser M10 which were the predecessor to Petzl Lynx.  I consequently have a spare brand new pair of front points, never fitted and never needed for when the old monos become too worn (noting that they can still also be moved forward a notch).  Can't see myself needing a new pair any time soon.