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PRODUCT NEWS: Edelrid Ohm

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Edelrid Ohm 1, 4 kb

The EDELRID Ohm is an innovative, new solution for the problems experienced by climbing partners with a significant difference in weight. That is to say the risk for a heavier lead climber if their partner has difficulty controlling their falls and the risk for a lighter belayer if their partner's falls pull them off the ground, hurling them against the wall.



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 Morgan Woods 05 Mar 2016
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

If it works as described with no increased drag or friction during normal climbing then it sounds like it could be quite useful.
 Fraser 06 Mar 2016
In reply to Morgan Woods:

Agreed, seems to be a pretty decent product. I know a few climbing couples who would be very happy to use this. They really should get Robbie Phillips to do a version in English though, I had to pause the vid a few times to read the subtitles as well as the side-by-side video sub-captions.
 solostoke 06 Mar 2016
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

Roll on payday I need one of these! I'm 100kg and most of my partners are around the 60 to 70 and I don't like leading too much when they are anchored solid to a boulder at the base. This could help out massively.
 Otis 06 Mar 2016
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

An interesting product that looks like it could be quite useful for some people.

It would be interesting to know whether it puts additional stresses into the rope and what the impact is on rope wear and tear over a period of prolonged use. I'd imagine it could be an issue, but possibly one you'd happily put up with.

pasbury 07 Mar 2016
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

Even without a difference in weight it sounds like it would be useful for creating a more dynamic and controllable catch in many situations.
cb294 07 Mar 2016
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

This is made for me! I weigh about 100kg, which is twice the weight of some of my climbing partners. If we go climbing in a group, I may even get to climb with the girls again, rather than always being teamed up with the second biggest bloke!

Seriously, the "second biggest bloke" is about 72 kg, so it may even be useful there. On the other hand, my long time climbing partner (until she moved away) was a 65kg girl, but she was so calm and experienced I trusted her blind to belay me, even if she sometimes collected some serious air miles.

CB
Climber Phil 08 Mar 2016
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:
When are these available
 derryclimbs 09 Mar 2016
In reply to Master of Ice:

ditto, when are these available and any idea on price? Have a very light belayer/girlfriend who would think this is the best thing since ground anchors
 jon 09 Mar 2016
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

Hmmm, I have a... ahem... friend who feels this maybe for him.
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

How will UK indoor walls be receptive of this?

I am not sure, although only speculating, that my local wall wouldn't be keen for anyone clipping their own QD in to the Mallion? Could this not in theory cause wear to the in-situ webbed strap?
In reply to StillTryingForTheTop:

Agreed, having worked at a few walls, I can see this quickly becoming an issue as all draws etc are safety checked by the wall.
I think most staff, if explained what it was for and how it would work, would be fine with it. But i can see newer, less experienced staff getting in a fluster about it.
Though one you've clipped the second draw then there shouldn't really be an issue.
 CPH 09 Mar 2016
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:
Angy still goes a fair way before the OHM stops her-could still be a bit nasty in some circumstances.
? still better being tethered to the ground.
Post edited at 15:55
2
 ex0 09 Mar 2016
In reply to CPH:

She really doesn't go very far at all..
 solostoke 09 Mar 2016
In reply to Master of Ice:

I've heard second half of 2016
In reply to solostoke:

I've just spoken to Paul Craven, who runs the UK Agency for Edelrid, and he's confirmed an RRP of £90 and a launch date of August 2016.

In answer to the questions above regarding compatibility within climbing walls, from the centres he's spoken to several have seemed keen and initial feedback is that they are interested to know more. There is potential for the Ohm to be fitted to first bolts with a maillion and left in situ.

Paul is in Font currently, but if there's more questions I'm sure he'll be in touch shortly after his return to the UK.
 jon 10 Mar 2016
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

> There is potential for the Ohm to be fitted to first bolts with a maillion and left in situ.

How would that work then, as it has to be opened to put the rope in and then closed up again something you couldn't do whilst climbing. Would it have to be left with the rope permanently threaded? I'm really quite interested in one of these for my general climbing, as my weight and that of my wife progressively diverge...

In reply to jon:

I'll slopey shoulder that response to Paul if that's ok?

Feel moderately spineless in doing so, but he knows the device far better than I do!
 Fraser 10 Mar 2016
In reply to jon:

> I'm really quite interested in one of these for my general climbing, as my weight and that of my wife progressively diverge...

Pies and cake for one of you - that's the solution!

 jon 10 Mar 2016
In reply to Fraser:

Sadly they have been for the wrong one for too long!
 winhill 10 Mar 2016
In reply to CPH:

> Angy still goes a fair way before the OHM stops her-could still be a bit nasty in some circumstances.

> ? still better being tethered to the ground.

Agreed, the video doesn't show people using ground anchors or ballast bags, so it doesn't show a real world comparison. The (several) falls they show where the two nearly contact are first clip falls, where dynamic belaying can be more dangerous ( I saw a climber injured at the weekend because his belayer stepped in to give a soft catch but as it was only a first clip fall the climber hit the deck). But further up, using a ground anchor makes it much harder to offer someone a decent catch.
 winhill 10 Mar 2016
In reply to jon:

> How would that work then, as it has to be opened to put the rope in and then closed up again something you couldn't do whilst climbing.

The second side is slotted, so as long as it is open and on the krab, you can drop the rope in and close it.

If it's closed, it looks like the plan is to push the plastic button down, open it and then drop the rope in and close it. A bit fiddly but you could do it one handed from a good hold and it would allow permanent installation.
 jon 10 Mar 2016
In reply to winhill:

Ah OK - it looked to me from the vid that it was the krab that locked the two sides together (bit like closing a Grigri). Is that not the case, then? Still seems a bit fiddly for someone just starting to lead, for example.
 winhill 10 Mar 2016
In reply to jon:

> Ah OK - it looked to me from the vid that it was the krab that locked the two sides together (bit like closing a Grigri). Is that not the case, then? Still seems a bit fiddly for someone just starting to lead, for example.

Sort of, except the bottom one is slotted and the yellow plastic moves to open the slot then closes behind it (I've seen that on some of the vids). I presume you can push the yellow plastic and reverse the operation but I haven't seen that bit done.
 Paul Craven 15 Mar 2016
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Ohm is going to be available from November 2016.
In reply to Paul Craven:

Thanks for the update Paul, hope you had a good time in Font.
 Lhod 20 Mar 2016
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

It looks to me as though it would trash your QDs, unless I've misunderstood.

Good practice is to always use a QD the same way around, i.e. always clip a bolt (when sport climbing) with one end, and the rope always runs through the other end. The bolt end krab gets dented and cut by banging against bolts, while the rope end krab stays nice and smooth as it just has the rope running through. If you don't do this then the rope runs through the dented / rough krab and quickly gets trashed.

Surely having a metal device (it looks similar to a grigri attachment point) on the rope end krab will cause this effect? Especially as it takes the force out of lead falls, so will be taking shock loads.

If this is the case I wouldn't use one, nor want to climb at an indoor wall which did (unless they also provided their own rope!!!)
1
In reply to Lhod:

Not exactly rocket science is it? Just have a dedicated draw which it's always attached to.
1
 Lhod 21 Mar 2016
In reply to purplemonkeyelephant:

So going back to my point about the indoor wall - unless EVERYONE uses it then it's a problem, right?

If one person uses their own device on the wall's QD then it damages the surface of the gate and damages the ropes of everyone who uses it after.

If the wall has their own device permanently attached to the QD then everyone has to use it (and it seems it would be fiddly to clip if already attached to the QD).
In reply to Lhod:

In the product video the user attaches their own quickdraw to the top maillon, which is probably how Edelrid will recommend it being used for the reasons you mention and what I was referring to when I said have a dedicated draw. Whether walls will want that is another question entirely.
 John Kelly 26 Mar 2016
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Can I clip it into my first cam?

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