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REVIEW: Five Ten Guide Tennie

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Guide Tennie montage, 4 kbThe latest version of this popular approach shoe climbs like a dream, says Martin McKenna, and it rocks on long scrambles too. But keep it away from wet grass...

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 gethin_allen 03 Aug 2018
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

The big question in my mind is; are they better made than the old versions which would almost fall to bits in your hands as soon as you get them out of the box?

 afx22 03 Aug 2018
In reply to gethin_allen:

I've had some of the old versions for 8 years.  They've had a hammering - both scrambling and as approach shoes while bouldering.  They're still in great working order.

My only beef is that I've prefer them to have more grip on the heel, for descending.

 Bandage 03 Aug 2018
In reply to afx22:

Think gethin was talking about the old new version, not the old, old version

 Wry Spudding 03 Aug 2018
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

...and don't expect them to last very long. Mine haven't been very durable (unlike the old ones which lasted well).

Post edited at 13:30
In reply to Bandage:

My old, old ones are lasting well!

 gethin_allen 03 Aug 2018
In reply to afx22:

I bought a pair on sale when the latest model came out (not sure if that makes them the old, new old, old old or what model) and almost immediately they started coming apart. I returned them and got a refund. I didn't want another pair if that was the quality to be expected.

In reply to gethin_allen:

Also my experience. Utter cobblers (pun intended!) 

I won't be touching Tennies (or other Five Ten products) with a barge pole, especially when other brands produce superior products with none or fewer of the downsides. 

2
 Wee Davie 03 Aug 2018
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

Great review. Have you used La Sportiva Boulder X's in the past? If so how do the Sportivas compare in rock climbing terms with the Tennies? Cheers

 afx22 03 Aug 2018
In reply to Bandage:

Aha.  Fair enough

 yodadave 03 Aug 2018
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

where is the red sandstone 6a sport slab?

Kirriemuir?

 

In reply to yodadave:

That's N.Berwick Law (so dolerite, i think, not sandstone)

 sgl 03 Aug 2018
In reply to Wee Davie:

I can't comment on the difference in climbing ability but in terms of durability: on a five day route on El Cap earlier this year, the rubber on my (brand new) boulder x's had completely worn through on one shoe just where rand joins toe. One partner's (brand new) tennies had completely worn through and had a hole in the toe and the third person's 3 year old ecco work shoes were barely scuffed!

 olddirtydoggy 04 Aug 2018
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

The durability might depend on how they are used. I've seen many people use them as a daytime shoe, crag shoe, house slipper, scrambler and pretty much everything. If I wore one shoe for it all then it wouldn't take long to wear them out. I've had a pair for a year and use them on scrambly hikes and approaches and so far they are great.

 

Or they could just be crap.

 NigelHurst 05 Aug 2018

That stealth sole wears out quick, bought a pair in spring, soles are now slick, bald as a coot. But as the article says, great for scrambling and low grade climbs.

Does anyone know if you can get them resoled?

 

 John Ww 05 Aug 2018
In reply to NigelHurst:

Yep, Feet First in Chesterfield did my old (old) ones.

 NigelHurst 06 Aug 2018
In reply to John Ww:

cheers

 Oliver Smaje 06 Aug 2018
In reply to salad fingers:

Bit unfair- 5.10 rock boots are the tits!

 snoop6060 07 Aug 2018
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

Worst footwear I've ever bought these. I was in the states when my approach shoes fell apart so had no choice. It was either these or some not so rugged looking sportiva ones. Considering the dessert approaches I chose these. Massive mistake. They are so uncomfortable that it just felt like I was walking around in climbing shoes. And the sole started to look worn after about 2 days of owning them.  

In reply to Wry Spudding:

> ...and don't expect them to last very long. Mine haven't been very durable (unlike the old ones which lasted well).

It's interesting that a few people have mentioned this. There must be/have been a problem judging by the comments.  I've just had a look at them again. There isn't really any signs of wear beyond what you'd expect from a shoe that I've had for a year. In fact they look in pretty good nick, although I don't use them as an every day run around shoe.

>  Have you used La Sportiva Boulder X's in the past? If so how do the Sportivas compare in rock climbing terms with the Tennies?

Nope, I've never really went for Sportivas, although I really should try a pair. Scarpa just seem to fit my feet so well they are just my go to brand for this type of stuff.

>  That stealth sole wears out quick, bought a pair in spring, soles are now slick, bald as a coot. But as the article says, great for scrambling and low grade climbs.

The stealth rubber on 5/10 climbing shoes I've owned have always worn out super fast, so this doesn't surprise me that much. Maybe I should take them for a day on Cuillin gabbro and see how they fair!

>  The durability might depend on how they are used. I've seen many people use them as a daytime shoe, crag shoe, house slipper, scrambler and pretty much everything. If I wore one shoe for it all then it wouldn't take long to wear them out. I've had a pair for a year and use them on scrambly hikes and approaches and so far they are great.

This is basically how I've been using them (days out at crags/good path approaches to mountain crags).

Post edited at 11:01
Tom Knowles 07 Aug 2018
In reply to Martin McKenna - Rockfax:

 

Unrelated but what are the slim leg trousers in the 4th photo (wet day in Cairngorms)?


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