UKC

Good trad harness?

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 Steve_90 02 Jun 2013
Looking for a good trad harness. Been using the DMM Renegade for a few years now. Like the look of the 2.0 with the slide lock. Not really a fan of the double back. Looked at a few reviews but can't decide between arcteryx, dmm, petzl and black diamond. The 7 gear loops are quite good on the renegade but never used less gear loops. Advice please? Thinking of buying a trad only harness and sport only harness instead of an all rounder.
 xplorer 02 Jun 2013
In reply to stickonthewall:

I'll warn you about arcteryx harness's.....

Once you try one on, you're wallet becomes a lot lighter.

There second to none
 cuppatea 02 Jun 2013
In reply to stickonthewall:

Is the new Renegade 2 only available with ziplock buckles?

That would be a shame. DMM got my money last time as the Renegade was one of the few harnesses available with proper grownup buckles.
 John Kelly 02 Jun 2013
In reply to stickonthewall:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=2034

http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=4476

The camp air cr, adjustable leg loops, weights about 240g, cost less than £50, unless you want to climb big walls it will carry everthing you need, used it trad and winter - great piece of kit
In reply to stickonthewall: A top tip from a climbing partner of mine:

Adding two ice screw clippers to a standard 4 gear loop harness works really well for trad. You can rack 4-5 short extenders on each clipper which means you are then not overly constrained by just having the 4 loops. You can do this with the majority of modern all-round harness.

As for which harness to recommend, my only advice is try lots on. If you are a fairly standard body-shape then you shouldn't have any shortage of options. Equally if you are a 'non-standard' body-shape, like I am, then you will struggle.

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